geddo

I still have the original overfill line routed the way it was, no change. I just removed the small black plastic device on the vent line just under the tank and directly connected the line together, then removed the charcoal cannister and just allowed the line to exit the bottom of the bike (vent and overfill are not tee'd together, still separate). I imagine it would work either way but I chose to keep them seperate so I can put the bike back to stock if needed. Hope that helps. Cheers, Geddo

Thanks HaydnR appreciate all the help

Well I couldn't figure out a way to get the hoses disconnected without removing the canister from the bike first, there are two hoses connected to it that are a pain to get off. So now that I had to take it off to disconnect the hoses, at the bottom of the bike where I wanted the hoses to outlet, I am not going to take the time to mount it back. Just took a quick test ride up through the hills and the bike ran just fine, parked it in the garage and waited... no leak. So I popped the gas cap and no pressure released, hopefully this means it is done. Thanks guys for your help!

The preexisting problem may have filled the canister w/ fuel [i presume this is the charcoal canister for emissions control we're discussing here.] That's been known to happen on other brands as well: overfill the tank, the overflow gets trapped by the canister, idles rough for ages until the charcoal is eventually evaporated enough to once again do its job. A lot of folks have been known to remove the canister permanent-like: I'm not that concerned about the minimal extra wt. savings myself & prefer to save the local environment, but your situation [colder climate, no stagnant air basins like SoCal] may be different... There is a definite gurgle when I blow through the line connected to the can so apparently there is fluid in there, I wasn't sure if that was by design or not. Living in CA gives me pause in removing anything smog related, its only a matter of time before we are forced to get smog checks on bikes... but I would rather risk that then have it leak gas (which would fail smog check anyways) so it looks like canister must go. I'll probably leave it there and just disconnect for now unless I can find an easy way to remove and reinstall.

Just disconnected the line to the canister and ran it for a couple minutes, no leak and no pressure build up. Going to have to try a longer run to be sure but so far it looks promising. Cap looks to be seating correctly with the power mount on, so it is looking like the canister may be part of the problem.

I suppose that is possible though the pressure issue started long before I put that power mount on. I will take it off and see if that helps any, but you may be onto something with the seal to the cap blocking it when closed. I did take the cap apart to see if there was anything blocking and it was able to pass air but its possible when closed it is blocked somehow. Thanks!

After trying to work out a way to route the lines properly for the tipover valve and make sure that it wouldn't be likely come loose, I decided the thing just wasn't that important so it sits on my garage bench. I did put a 1/4" brass nipple to connect the lines together and did a quick test to blow and suck air thru it, which though not easy was possible. I then reconnected everything and ran the bike for a few minutes, after shutting off the bike the leak returned Well at least I am back to where I started before brininging it into the shop, the leak is going under the bike and not over my cylinder any longer. There was a bit of pressure release when I opened the fuel cap and the leak stopped as soon as I did so it does appear that it is still not breathing right. I checked the cap and I can pass air through it just fine so I guess next step is to remove the cannister and get it completely out of the picture. Still doesn't make any sense for the fuel to leak out of the overflow, the vent area to that tube is completely dry. Must be internal but there is no apparent crack inside the tank.

Whatever happened with this, is it in the works still? FWIW I would like an XL SS in red and black...

Yes that is how I understand it as well, though the two vents are internal to the tank they are external to the fuel bladder. Since the fuel cap seals these two internal chambers off from each other the cap itself must play a part in the vapor system... don't know that for sure but haydn pointed out some vents in the cap itself so it would make sense. As far as the 'Y' goes that is my second option if putting the rollover on correctly doesn't work, the extra weight and hose length aren't of too much concern to me as long as the system works. As far as the 'hourly employees' giving up on replacing the bike in proper fashion, I guess I am not that forgiving. At the rate they charge for their professional services I would expect a better quality of work and attention to detail, and once confronted with documented proof that they screwed up they should have been more responsive and willing to fix the problem (I sent the owner the pictures and video I posted here via e-mail at his request and they have refused to return my calls since). Live and learn I guess...

LOL, I wish I could have done it that easily. I don't think I could generate the force that was necessary to get those things off, I had to pry needle nose pliers to generate the leverage to get them off... the red was tough but the white was a PIA. Yeah i don't quite understand the physics involved in the tank being starved of relief pressure, resulting tank suck, followed by a leak. Seems it should be trying to draw air in from the overflow vent not push fuel out I tried blowing through both vents with a straw while blocking the spiggot and I could not pass air through it, perhaps there is a defect that is only exposed when the tank is depressurized... I used to get the tank whoosh when I opened fuel cap after riding or on hot days. Hopefully I will now be able to get rid of that either by using the upside down rollover or just remove the thing all together.

Merely an attempt at humor, aimed at whoever design that contraption and referred to it as "quick"...

Man this issue taught me alot, first and foremost don't be a puss... I was so worried I would trash something on my bike I was afraid to take off the tank. I posted a lot of misconceptions on here as I went through this issue so if anyone reads this down the line ignore everything I was thinking as I went through this, but listen to what all the other guys were saying So here is how I now understand the issue, hopefully this is correct: On a US bike without pad the left side spiggot is the overflow, it MUST have a tube connected to it that routes the potential fluid overflow down the bike and out the bottom. If it is not there most likely it has fallen off or some tard didn't reattach when they put the tank on, without this fuel will leak onto your cyclinder not far from your spark plugs. The right side spiggot on US bikes without pad goes to a charcoal cannister under your bike just in front of the rear wheel, the system is there for a couple of reasons one of which is a tipover safety mechanism to keep fuel from leaking out the tank in the event of a tipover. There is line from the right hand spiggot on the tank going to a black Rollover Valve, the other end of the rollover valve goes to another line that routes to the cannister below the bike. The long end of the Rollover Valve should be connected to the cannister line, short end to the tank. HOWEVER the long side must be facing up towards the tank, this is counter intuitive and seems to require adding longer lines to accomplish this, this is so the piece inside the rollover valve will fall down towards the short end allowing air to be pulled in from the cannister. If the valve is flipped the other way (short side up) gravity will pull the device inside to the long end and block it up (this is the tipover feature of the valve). I have tested this and here are my results: Long end facing up- Blow from long end to short and air passes through easily, blow from short to long and no air passes (perhaps under more pressure it could) Short end facing up- Blow from short to long and no air passes, blow from long to short and no air passes (again perhaps more pressure would enable it sporadically) I will post up my results once I have purchased the hoses and clamps to complete this, and whomever called those white and red fuel connectors 'quick connects' should be forced to spend his time in hell trying to fit a square peg in a round hole... with a hot poker shoved up his a$$!

Apparently this topic has come up before, but never showed up in my searches until I tried Rollover Valve: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12071&st=15 So I guess the answer is you can do without it and risk fuel leaking if the bike goes down or you can try to connect it properly and then strap it down upside down so the valve actually works... guess I will give the latter a try first.

So after further review, I noticed that in the diagram below the to cannister end was actually facing the tank on my bike (the hose on the left was gong to the tank). Unfugging believeable, they didnt put it back on the tank correctly AND they didnt connect the other hose to the bottom of the bike... in affect they setup the bike to kill me!!!!! So I am able to blow through from the cannister end to the tank end if I blow real hard... repeated blows after that initial clearing is easy, however if I blow in the opposite direction (tank to cannister) it gets blocked and no air will go that way... I then have to blow hard again (trying not to giggle as I explain how hard I blow) to clear it. It appears that the device is meant to draw air from the cannister into the tank until the pressure builds up enough that the tank then tries to push it back down the tube, the rollover valve prevents it from being sent back 'E' to the cannister (when that happens the air is then expelled through the 'F' spiggot I guess?) So does is this the expected operation of the rollover valve, should it be that hard to blow back through from cannister to tank or should it be a more effortless operation?

Took the tank off today and now this diagram makes complete sense to me, thanks! There is a hose that was left unattached to 'F' after I took the bike into the shop (Moto Italiano in Santa Cruz), since I now know this was a complete F-up on their part and they ignored me after I sent the info that would have shown them they screwed up I now have no problem letting folks know who it was. So the leak never moved they just didnt attach the hose that routes the fuel to the bottom of the bike... away from the hot sparky stuff, not a very important connection for them i guess Okay over that for now, so I have tested the the two outlets 'F' and 'E', using a straw I blow air through 'F' just fine but 'E' I cannot. I disconnected the line, all that was left was a hose connected to a spigot on the tank and a black cylinder shaped object (Rollover valve?) connecting that hose to another hose. I can blow through both hoses but I cannot blow or suck air through the Rollover Valve(?) What is this thing for and should I be able to blow air through it? Do I even need it? Thanks for all the info you guys have provided, it made everything pretty clear once I had the balls to take off the tank