Murray

Completely wrong! The PCIII simply corrects per the ECU's "adjustments". In other words, if the ECU is making corrections for altitude, temp etc, the PCIII is following these adjustments and correcting them as needed from the (hopefully) custom map you had made. The Marelli unit is not that smart. It has limited adjustments for the conditions you suggest. The power ccrappers operate buy adjusting the duration of the orginal ECU's fuel pulse. The top of the line modes also have an ablity to adjust the timing. Remebering that fuel injectors vary the rate of fuel buy thier duration no how far they open thats fixed. Compared to the power commanders the Webber marrelli is a much more sophiscated unit however wbber marelli is usally not end user adjustable partly because of emission laws that same reason the power cammander seems to give a good gain. Whilst I have yet to open a power commander I would suggest there is around 70euro at most of electronic compnets insode the power commanders they are a pretty basic unit and for the purchase price and factor in a custom map you are very seriously in the territory of complete replacment ECU's. There is a gentlman in australi that has designed a complete replacement ECU specifically with Guzzi's in mind and sells it for a very modest price. WM16 replacement . Power commanders are popular because they are conviniate but they have a fairly limited range of operation and thier mapping is pretty crude and usally doesn't differentiate between different cylinders etc etc. There is a large aftermarket industry around for modern cars that offer some very sophisticated products. Dyno Jet (the people that make power commander) are pretty cagey about whats inside thier unit and how it works but the best analogy I can come up with is its like fitting a amal in addition to flatslide FCR's in order to get the FCR's tuned correctly.

You have to use the Magni bars! The factory clipon's are too high, they are also too high for fitting the fairing

I have heard of PC111's failing and causing the bike to run like crap as well. I have seen people with some very mixed results there is no athourised tuning centre anywhere feasibly near here (ie not within a 2700km radius and probally further). Most people that have had these had a lot trouble getting them to run right on popular bikes like Honda's and Suzuki's etc. They tried fiddling with the maps etc etc but had pretty mixed results. These guys turn over thier bikes fairly regualry when they turn over thier bikes they sold the unit with the bike or speratly. On the new bike they never bothered fitting one. To me for the money have a good look around for a bit more money you can get some high end fully programable racing computers that replace the ECU and are able to be reprogammed in all aspects rather than just fuel control and allow much finer fuel control than the powercommander. The other thing is for less money athough still somewhat in development stages you can get Cliff's MY16 Dunno not sold on Power commanders I think they are popular because they are convieniate rather than because they are a good thing.

You can The WM15 is used across a range of machines so the setup from a simarly equiped Ducat will work no problems the question is do you want to? There are a few alternatives around for similar money and do a better job.

I have lemans or scura test article somewhere whilst punting the bike round the track touching down the sidestand firmly would cause the cutout switch to cut the motor. If it was only on left hand corners as the side stand touched down I would say that this is more likely you problem than relay related. Benn looking at toe Coppa Italia as an alternative if Guzzi get a bit too optimistic with the MGS01's pricing. List of mods is to get rid of the bars and fit clipon's high rise exhaust system pod filters get rid of the loop on the side stand resprung for the fatty bastard that will be riding it and maybe a aftermarket ECU something like Cliff Jefferies. Dunno the thing is I am cringing at forking out a premium for a bike then dumping bulk money to get what I want. It kinda indicates to me its not the right bike to get in the first place.

Murray, For those of us who are taller (I'm 6'2") the seat and general ergos suck! I have gone through a fair amount of $ to make the bike fit me but the seat (lack of)comfort was appaling. A Ruich Maund Seat, and an Airhawk, add taller bars with heavier barends, and Centauro Controls and now I can do all day rides with the best of them. I added the Hepco Becker Bags so now I can carry stuff too. I look at the V11 as a great starting point. Customize as you see fit. I agree that the motor when set up right is pretty good in stock trim. Although you can get more power to me the cost/benefit ratio is poor. Compared to the 1100 sport the v11 is much more confortable bike. Except the bars/clipon's much lower ie below the tripple tree's. One on the things putting me off the current series oh and I would like some more power and quicker reponse time to throttle imputs kinda like the way a fourvalver spins up.

Whilst working as an aircraft instrument fitter we used to test various indicators/ gauges for thier sealing properties. This was with hermatically sealed gauges ie completely sealed and purged with nitrogen. The basic theroy was that air had moisture in it so we would heat the gauges to about 70 degrees centirgrade (because that was the temp behind the aircraft inst pannel) and rub ice on the glass any moisture from normal atmosphere would pretty quickly gather on the glass. Normal vehicle instruments are not sealed and purged with nitrogen they are usally sealed with the atmosphere of the day. I would suggest you are getting a large temp difference between the galss and the bottom of the instrument causing a similar effect to our test. Possibly heated by the instrument light? Have you noticed its more prevalent in winter/wet conditions does the lights on or off actully affect it? If you determine the light is heating the rear of the instrument you could try fitting a LED instead of the conventional bulb 12 volt ones are now readily avalible. Athopugh maybe richs mod just allows the bottom of the intrument to be cooled better preventing the temp difference. If its stupid and it works it isn't stupid.

Actually after test riding a few the V11 series are probally one of the first Guzzi's in a long time you can simply just get on and ride. Run it in and enjoy it PCIII intake exhaust mods aren't neascarry athough a lot like to do them. The fuel injections is pretty good. Dpending on the kinda of rider you are there might be a few ground clearance issues to sort set the suspesnion up run it in. Get a decent pre delivery. But there are no chasims in the power delivery you don't need both hands on the throttle to twist it open and the seat is even reasnoble. There is a course a difference between nesscary mods nd mods that make life a lot easier.

I use the Bridgestone 020's on the rear of the 1100 sport. Get 16-19 000kms out of them on a very cold morning comming out of a tirght corner you can give it a big handful and it will gently drift but thats about it. Used the avons athough I think they have changed models since but they were pretty good wet weather performance was good too. The only thing that kinda stopped me using them was the AUstralian dollars serious slide backwards against eveything else for a couple of years. One rear avon was about 50 dollars less than a complete set of bridgestones. The dollar has since recovered so it might not be as stupid as it once was.

After riding around on a V11 a bit and currently owning a 1100 sport carbed if I ever got a V11 I would seriously look at fitting a 4.5 rim to it and running a 160 section tyre. The "sporting" term used very loosely guzzis simply do not make enough HP to justify any more rubber and the reason to have more rubber is to get extra power to the ground. The Guzzi's are usally pushing to punch out 75-80 hp at the rear wheel after breathing and exhaust mods something like a 190 would simply slow the steering down excessivly. 190's etc etc they fit to 240hp moto GP bikes. Some of the superlight wheels such as dyno mags don't have a very good reputation for coping with rough bitumen etc etc but any wieght off unsprung wieghts ie wheels is much more valulable than the same wieght off sprung wieghts from a performance piont of view. The other thing is a bigger tyre would also be slightly heavier. If you really want to liven the steering up on a Guzzi unbolt the steering dampener it make a significant difference and with Guzzis long wheel base and conservative steering geometery its highly unlikely you'll ever actully seriously need it.

The throttle misters/vita throttle locks are only really good on dead flat ground if you are riding in a group or in rolling terrian or both they are !@#$ing useless. Dpending on what you want to use it for there are some speed dependat crusie controls around but depends on how much you wish to spend.

Put my vote in for Pro Grip gels they are the best I found. Avalible at any pervayer of Motor cross style stuff.

Dunno but the dirt guys seemed to be pretty convinced that they work better, signifcantly better. Dunno about road bikes though.

I have had Low carbon steel rotors on my 1100 sport for well over 50 000 km's. These are of conventional design and not the wave type. The have lasted fairly well however I don not use sintered metal pads these will eat any disk material. The Wave shape advantge seems to be more applicable int he dirt where the large holes allow the caliper to clear the disk of deberies a lot faster. There is a definate lack of wave rotors in use int he road racing secene. My rotors are made buy braking and at the time were not considered quiet as good as the cast iron bembo's but were two thirds the price.

Sounds like yet another parts bin specail brought to you buy your favourite quintesential Italian motorcycle manufactuer. Unfortunatly I have a very early 1100 sport one with colour coded forks which I believe makes it a 94. I think the latter sports were fitted with Marchsini sp? wheels not brembo's the latter V11 sport have brembos and someone was telling me that the older 1100sport/daytona wheels were made by brembo specially for Guzzi they have Moto Guzzi cast in one of the spokes. I have looked at ugrading forks wheels etc etc. But I look at a bike thats almost ten years old with 81 000 kms on the clock (65 000 of them I'm responsible for) and has served me well . Besides better handling I would also like more power beyond the Klien carbs and termi exhasut that is already fitted to it. Think the money will be much better put towrads something a bit newer a bit more modern like the MGS01 so whats the latest rumour on the series version. When and where are they going to start racing the corse versions?

160/60-18

Now you've done it mentioned hasselhoff. For !@#$'s and giggles go here Now You've done it Yes I am serious got to the bottom of the page read the reviews all 837 of them do not be consuming any drink or food type substance whilst reading these. I take no responsiblity for any injuries that may occour from falling off your chair from laughing. You have been warned enjoy!!

Have heard the Diablo Corsa have been prone to delaminating when excessivly hot. Ie average summers day of around 38 celcius then take it on a couple hour high speed run with about third of the tread left. Dunno don't lie Michlens and seen the pilot sports prone to cupping and uneven wear when used in anger on heavier bikes ie bandits guzzi's etc. What really puts me off them however is thier reputation for girp grip grip slide as opposed to grip grip i'm going to have a little drift I'm having a little drift and the next step is a full on slide, your a !@#$ing idiot I told you I was going to slide. I resrve the use of the Pilots sports exclusivly to my scooter which doesn't have the power or wieght to slide uless you crank it over hard enough onto the centre stand. Have had good results with the older Pirelli EVO and the Pirelli corsa which the Diablo replaced. They keep taliking about its wet weather performance which makes me think it will make a good winter tyre. Unfortuantly not avalible in rear carburated 1100 sport size.

Here is one you'll apreciate. Terminator 2 the liquid terminator T2000?? is chasing a young John Oconner on his 80cc dirt bike down a concret storm water drain. The catch the bikes making the appropiate ring a ding ding nioses but just how many gears were fitted to the old XR honda's 27 or 52? ring a ding ding brrrrrrrrrrrrrr cling brrrrrrrrr click brrrrrrrr goes on for a solid few minutes. No one has metioned Tea with Mousolini sp? How about some of the Manga cartoons the obious one been Akira.

If the shifter spring was broken it would shift at all in ethier direction the leaver would also flop to the bottom of its travel.

The Griso is a somewhere over the rainbow project and is not avalible for sale anywhere yet as its not in production. Production is possibly slated for 2005/06 yes it will be avalible in the US as imagine the only market with awlful enough taste to absorbe any volume of these things is the US. I think is uglier that and herd of camel arseholes BTW my opion of course. Guzzi are currently feverishly working on getting the MGS01 series (which will be the last of the serious aircooled sport bikes in all likelyhood) into production when they come out with a price I'll make a decision but I am prepared to stretch much further than for any other brand. Is anyone taking delivery of the corse verion yet?

After riding them both the standard Daytona motor VS the two valve there is not much in it the fourvalve spins up a lot more easily and is smoother. However when directly compared to a C kit daytona or a RS (not the munted version they got int he US) where the two valve starts to loose intrest the four valve takes off. Was there a significant difference in low down torque it was noticable but probally is only around 5 NM if that. It depends on what you want if the two valve does the job for you then stick with it. However if you are after more power thats more acessable with minor mods the fourvalve is the way to go.

I though it was only the 1100sport/daytona's were mounted 20mm to the right to get the shaft around the wider rear tyre. One of the main features of the V11 is the 6 speed box with the outpur shaft a further 30mm to the right when compared to the five speeder thus elimnating the need for such antics on the frame engineering. As the the orginal problem concentrating on how much force you are putting in through the bars is asking for trouble. If you get water thats pretty close to body temperture dip the index finger of one hand in it, it will feel hot or cold. Remove the first and dip the index finger of the other hand and it won't feel the same. Look around the corner and set the bike to go around it don't worry about how hard you are or arn't pushing on the bars adjust the bike to go where you are going smooth steady power application also helps. I have found tyres worn more to the left than the right I thing this is from getting ont he power slightly eariler as the longtiudal crank tends to stand the bike up out of left handers. Certianly not a noticable on the road. If the suspesion seems too bounce thats a indication of a lack of dampening for the spring setting rather than a too harder spring.

I wouldn't of put a Pilot road ont he front of my bike unless it had some horrible biot of hard plastic touring tyre on the rear. I found the Guzzis to respond very poorly to a matched set of tyres (compund wise) front to rear. Always go one sticker on the front. Ie with the 020 if I was going to use Michelin tyre (actully I wouldn't cause I don't like them) I would of fitted a Michelin pitlot sport. Currently have a 020 fitted to the rear and a Pirelli Evo Corsa on the front no problems except the 020 is pretty well worn and the new front tyre is showing this up. The front end won't slide on demand like it used too with the 011 i had previously fitted. Quiet happy to mix and match but you have to look into it if you wanted a relativly hard tyre on the fron would of stuck with the 020's

I think there is a problem with rod angles my fairly basic understanding is the larger bores are really for the older short stroke motors. Could be wrong though.