Murray

To the no cross over I think you will slow your bike down. The previous owner of my carbed 1100 sport had way too much money and fitted the full Terginoni race system. It has a crossover very similar design to the curren v11's in the same spot Raceco tested a few cross overs and found that the stock V11 flowed best of all. Have fun with your experiment but I think you will find you definatly need a cross over of some description.

These thread seems a little odd to me. Havn't actually tried doing it but I looked at the V11 acess piont and got the distinct impression you didn't have to unbolt anything to grease the forward uni joint. The 1100 sports are a pain but can be done without removing anything you need a pretty small hand as the acess hole in the tube that goes around the uni jiont is above. Looking at the V11 there is a elongated hole that appears to allow acess to the front unijoint from the right hand side. This hole is not large enough? I think the rear is done from below as per the 1100 sport. Actually if the shop manual is followed with the 1100 sports the uni jiont should be assembled in such a manor that the spline and forward uni jiont grease nipples are acessable from the top and the rear from underneath without having to rotate the shaft to realign them. I find it strange that the factory had actully thought of this way back in 94 yet the bikes built almost ten years later they havn't thought of this.

Except the 010's out well and truely out of production.

Depends what you mean by racing fuel if you mean the usual stuff sold which is the equivlent of AVGAS its probally marginal you really need rasied compression ratios and a few other mods to take advantage of it. Which bike acording to your signiture its a Stone or one of the cruiser models i would suggest the motor is too softly tuned to take much advantage at all you will probally notice a small difference. If you can't tell the difference between priemuim and standard pump fuel its highly unlikely you'll get much benifit form the race fuel. However some race fuels and most definatly AVGAS is still a full leaded fuel if you bike is fitted with oxygen sensors or similar it will eat it. Try about a 30-40% mix to begin with if however you are talking about stuff like ELf racing fuel I havn't had any experince with it so can't really tell you anything.

I did run a Pirelli EVO (no longer avalible) on the front of my bike normally I ran the tyre preasures at around 34F 36-38R to get the Pirelli to steer right it required a few more PSI in it it did however wear very very evenly. I went down to one of the local tyre guys and even he said the 020 had a reputation for cupping. The pilot road strikes me as a very similar compund to the 020. On the 1100 sport I found matching the compunds proved to be very unsettling so now if I run a sports touring tyre like the 020 on the rear (with the 18 inch rim there is little to no chioce) I run at least a sports tyre or even a proddy race compund on the front. Michelins I am not a bit fan of but thats probally more personel preferance than anything else. Its rolling into to summer here at the moment and we tend to do some more ethusiastic rides so I think I'll try really sticky one.

I expect some wear but whe a tyre looses its shape totally with about half the tread depth to go that just !@#$'s me Pirelli evos look like the go at the moment.

I have been through the static sag correct springs capper I was pushing a few other people to do it a while back one guy did dunno about the rest. I think (rare I know!) that the current tyres are been designed to work n the lastest crop of super sport machines funny that. Ie light with front end whieght bias and a relatively steep steering geometery. Anyone who wants to ride overwieght underpowered throwbacks at the limit are clearly insane and will not be catered for, well not as bad as all that but we have to be a bit more cirumspect about what we choose for best results.

The 010's are no longer avalible, the carbed 1100 sport has a 18 inch rear rim and the only tyre's in the bridgestone range are the 020's and what ever evil bit of plastic the sell for touring in this size. I have only ever match the tyres on this bike once. Never ever again! The front tyre is the one I am currently chasing the rear grips quiet well.

I know its just about been done to death but with the constant evolving of the avalible products its hard to settle on a conbination. I was a great advocate of the bridgestone 010/020 conbination I found however the 010 scolloped really badly towards the end of its life I then switch to a pirelli EVO on the front which served well and wore well but was a bit more expensive and required a few extra pounds in it to work properly. I had the theroy that half the 010's problem was the tread pattern and when I found that the GSXR's were fitted with a 011 as standard which was supposedly a 010 with a different tread patten I though i had it sussed. This tyre is now down to the tread limiters on the sides and I con't remeber exactly when i fitted it however I am sure they havn't lasted anywhere near what the 010's did. Reading the manufactueres blurb replacement for the 010 (012's) is built for the newer more modern motorcycle (read lighter with front end bias) great except I don't own one It also has a center line and I suspect will have the same problem as the 010's looking at the tread pattern. Where to go from here?? The 011 will slide when provoked I'm not sure this is cause the tyre has gone off or the moron on the throttle is pushing it harder I suspect both to its credit its very very predictable to the piont I am using the throttle to run the bike wide on big sweepers. Its rolling into summer here an I am not toally opposed to buy a super sticky for the season. So what have people got and what do they think of them? Was looking at a Michlen Pilot sport H2 which probally would be nice but I don't want something that will evaporate in 2000 kms 5-8000 kms would be marginally acceptable if superbe grip was avalble so has anyone had anything to do with the pirelli Diablo's? Michelen H2's Bridgestone 012's Dunlops whatever they make 208's? on Guzzi's or heavier sports bikes? Anyone have a definative idea where the 011 fits into the scheme of things I think its quiet a bit softer than I thought and probally softer than the 010. Probally an extermely important factor is the predicatable slide Michlens reputation isn't that good in this department. The bike is a carbed 1100 sport which means I am pretty well screwed for rear tyre chioce but that seems to be holding up pretty well its the front thats struggling.

It was a recall for some of the 2002 models and perhaps others? The Scura's were definatly covered at least.

I think valve float will be the biggerst problem to more RPM. Like someone else said go buy a Ducati or if you wnat to stay company loyal Aprilia. Anedotally I have heard MkV's reved to 9000 rpm on a regular basis but I don't see them going much past that without throwing serious dollars at them. For HP out of a Guzzi you really need the fourvalve motor.

I have around 38mm for the rear on the 1100 sport and around 40mm for the front. Whilst the spring might not bottom out doesn't lean its correct. A lot of guys say this it doesn't bottom out so it must be ok. Until your ride with a correctly set up springs you won't realise there is a better ok.

From riding piont of view the very early daytonas are a bit disapionting. The engine is much smoother and spins up a little more freely than the two valve but thats about it. The early ones had three postions on the front forks 300mm front brakes striaght cut gearbox and and a 160 60 18 rear tyre and you have chioce of about five different tyres for this size as do carbed 1100 sports. If you want kudous/ rareity the early daytona racings are the way to go 100 only made six postion front forks (same as the latter carbed 1100 sport) 320 mm cast iron brembo brakes and most importantly a 'C' kit as standard in the motor. This made the jump to the four valve motor worth while it spins up much more freely as well as makes better power down a little on bottom end when compared to the two valve but midrange/top end makes up for that. Athough for the best the Daytona RS is really the wayt to go. The world versions got a more refined version of the C kit motor marchesini wheels (including a 17 inch rear) WP front end as well as rear shock helical cut gearbox cush drive in the rear hub cast Iron brembos all the bits that made this a thing to ride amd fitted with the much more stylish IMO 1100 sport body work. Major drawback is fitted with the dredded webber marelli M16 fuel injection computer and the fuel tank is stupidly small. Around 200 total production.

Would be intrested in seeing what actuly difference (ie on the Dyno) These mods make. It was suggested to me that while there are some improvments to be had by porting Guzzis there are fairly modest as the Guzzi ports are pretty striaght very short and there is still only two valves in the combustion chamber. This was from a fairly experince Ducati tuner that did a lot of pot and flow jobs mainly from racing athough I don't think he actually used a flow bench. There would obiously be a piont where you are restricting the flow if you went too small.

262 may refere to the over all wieght in Kilos 2.2lb's to the kilo so your 550lb spring is rated at 250kg's. Although proceded by the L kinda suggests that is the overall length in mm. Is there anything on the Ohlins web site?

Guzzi's do have more rearward wieght bias than most other bikes on the market. They do tend to feel vague in the front end when pushing hard. I have rasied the forks int he tripple clamps 10mm would start with fivce to begin with make sure you static sags are set right. have you noticed a difference between a full and empty tank. If the bike is less prone to your problem with a full tank rasing the forks will help. The other thing is where is the steering dampner set? It might be transmitting odd forces back through the bike as you counter steer. My personal opion is remove it completetly Guzzi's don't have radical enough geometry to justify one. Do you run a matched set of tyres iethe same compound front and rear? If so I suggest you try running a slightly softer tyre ont he fron as opposed to the back eg sport touring rear sports tyre front. Give those a go and see where you go from there.

If the above solutions fail try disconneting the power commader it might be failing with heat and vibration. They cause all sorts of antic's when they do fail.

The majority of the fuel injection adjustments can be carried out with a couple of vacum gauges and a mutimeter with the right knoledge. Unless you are dertermined to mess with the mixture throughout the rev range (I get the impression no because you havn't looked at already) I wouldn't bother with a power commander actually I wouldn't bother with a power cammander period but thats my own personel opion.

Guzzi valve clearances are supposed to be done cold. If the ticking of the egine is annoying you you don't have enough intake or exhaust noise or you are spending too much time at idle.

(vs $15 for the Guzzi filter). !@#$ing what you pay how much? Is that USD? I pay $15 Aust dollars for the geniune FIM thing. Suggest you give an independant supplier a ring such as TLM Harpers Stien dinise or whoever is relevant to your area. Athough given the chioce I'd pay the extra to fit the FIM one. Seen the results of a after market filter seal blowing on a RS Daytona they guy ethier didn't have his oil preasure switch connected or it wasn't working. It cost him a lot more than the couple of bucks he may have saved on the filter.

Stupid question but what grade fuel do you run? If you don't already try premium, the other thing is thier anything unusual about your situation altiude humidity etc etc?

Sorry correct me if I am wrong but I understand varrilo rods for Guzzi's are not lighter. They are infact heavier and made from billet steel instead of cast iron or whatever guzzi normally use. Thier advantage is they are significantly stronger and cope with higher compresion ratio's bigger pistions etc better. I am not familar with the Wisco pistions but I don't think thier major pourpose is to reduce rotaing wieght. Someone worked out a while ago the most cost effective way to reduce rotating mass is a carbon fibre clutch kit. As far performance goes you probally would be better off with some mild porting work for the same cost.

Thats cause that hasn't been identifyed as a problem with these bikes. It might be worth going though the machine very carefully with someone who is familar with the brand and dertermine exactly why it happened. Low siding a corner because of a stuck throttle sounds kinda odd usally you tend to run wide. Or did it run wide off the road whist been leant over and subsequnetly fell over. Impossible to say from so far away with so little information its just sounds kinda odd to me.

Can't think of anyone who has actually done it. Mainly becase WP is considered a very high end manufacturer and the WP shock tends to work very very well. In what way does the current shock not perform to your satisfaction? You can revalve respring WP shocks if you wish I am assuming you have done you static sags etc and adjusted them to the recommended levels. There is also a remote preload adjustment retrofit for the WP shocks but you have to be in the ball park with your static sags. The main references to ohlins is with the bikes standard equipment is ohlins. WP makes more direct acting shocks than Ohlins anyway but to me its a pretty marginal exercise. If you really had money burning a hole in your pocket maybe you could upgrade the WP with a newer WP. At least WP will have a direct reference as to what to replace it with.

Good news the MGS01 has an extra turn of top speed. We mainly have open fast roads around here and when playing with inline fours the old 1100 sport drops off the back and I get a little weary of hauling the poor old thing up past the top of the torque curve and having it struggle to redline in top gear. Just hoping that the 12 000 euro price for the road going version as published in a recent local mag they are even talking the end of the year for avaliblity. Where do I order?