Murray

The vast majority of speedo cables breaking problems are caused by unsuitable /incorrect routing. The maxium bend radius for a flexiable drive cable should be no less than 20 times the diameter of the cable and prefably as gently as possible. Fleixble drive cables can be custom made longer or shorter should you need extra length to route it properly (they are usally cheaper than OEM too) storage is also another problem a lot of manufacturers coil thier cables in less than desirable diameters for packaging. So critcally look at the routing take in account handle bar movement tank mountings etc etc. The 1100sport broke its orginal factory cable at 62 000kms. If the angel drive is under a lot of stress something is amiss you need to look at supporting the cable better or why its under so much stress. I would think metal angle drives are avlible from the same flexiable drive speacialists that make cables.

You can pick up an older lab sized scope for around $250 US athough with the older equipment its no as easy to use and you kinda need to know you way around them. The other cheaper athough not as accurate thing to do is to hook up two mutimeters in resitance mode one to each TPS. Sit them side buy side and watch them as you gently open the throttle from zero to full. If the reading starts to jump around a bit on one you know its on its way no help of course when they are both a bit crappy at the same piont but highly unlikely in reality. The TPS does have a twin ramp setup so there will be a change in the amoung of resitance change per turn on the throttle. Someone did go tot he trouble of working out all the facts and figures maybe try the Guzzi Tech site off the American or Australian board.

I think it still would be more effective if I lost at least 10kg and learnt how to ride properly before I seriously start worring about the bike. Athough if you make the bike too light 1. you have to review your suspension settings. 2. on rough roads (which are just about the only type around here) bike is less settled and stable. Much to the displeasure of a couple of current 954, SP1 and GSXR owners who find on sweepers a 7 year old Guzzi keeping pace

0.008" inch or .20mm what they used to recommend before the niose emission people got to them. For both inlet and exhaust. Used these values across two well used 1100sports with no problems.

Cut and pasted in entirerty form the AGIOR mailing list. Mr Roper is a Guzzi mechanic and is kind enough to share his knoledge often quiet extenisvly about the products from Mondello sp? "Just a word of warning for anyone with a new V11. Most dealers seem to be unaware that the splines on the rear wheel and bevelbox need greasing to prevent rapid wear. The factory doesn't, and never has, greased these splines on assembly. I don't know why? I'd guess for cosmetic reasons though so that if there is any excess it doesn't drip out or get flung onto the wheels when the bike is new but that is by the by. On the Calis and earlier bikes the worst that could happen is that you'd quickly wear out the splines in the crownwheel carrier and on the cush drive plate. While this would be a pain to fix and fairly expensive it pales into insignificance next to the problem this will cause on a V11!!! On these boxes the splined bit in the bevelbox is integral to crownwheel!!!! It's a single part, crownwheel and splined centre, which means if your splines are rooted you'll be up for not just the centre but a complete crownwheel and pinion!!!!!! Not only are these only available ex-factory but given that it is a complex bit of machining I *hate* to think how much a CW&P set would cost but I'd want to be sitting down before I asked!!!!!!! Preferably with a large glass of something strong in my hand!!!! I'd hazard a guess that you wouldn't get much change out of $2,000AU. Just to put the icing on the cake the larger of the two pinion bearings in the new box is a *special* combined ball and taper roller also available only ex-factory. This little beauty retails for $500AU on its own!!!!!!! Look after those bevelboxes boys and girls!!!!!!!!!! Pete." Has anyone esle come across this found it a problem etc etc? Murray

On a bike with stainless steel factory exhaust I don't think they are going out on a limb with that one. Has anyone got some actual measured gains from this procedure? Or is it all in theroy? Probally a lot more cost effective ways to extract extra hp out of the bike than this procedure. If you are casing that last decimal hp on a F1 car I can see the piont but otherwise it sounds pretty marginal.

Dunno what they are rated at but they are set up like most european bikes for a 72kg rider. So are the springs too soft? well no its more the owners are too heavy But Guzzi like every othe manufacturer have to guess the potential size of the average buyer and compromise hoping they will cover most people. Individual owners can customise the spring rates to thier umm requirements!!! Generally as the rear spring is usally choosen with some pillion accomodation in mind so they have a fair range of capability its usally the front springs that are underdone for the larger owner.

Good to see we have at least one happy customer.

You could always try removing the starter motor and tryng to fish it out (disconnect the battery first). Did this once think it had actually flicked up into the starter motor mount the cover is for acess to the timing marks on the flywheel. There is also a bolt ont he other side with a magnet attached to it just below the starter from memory thats purpose i to collect the metal filing from the starter motor engauging with the flywheel how that for a bit of useless info that is vaguely related to the subject?

Which sport did you get them off? If it was a carbed version espeacailly if its been down the road do not fit them turn them into door stops paper wieghts or book end but whatever you do don't use them on your bike. They are prone to getting miro fractures in them and will suddenly let go without warning. Whats wrong with yours? Powder coating is genrally considered the route of all evil it will cover and cracks and corrsoion should they form under the coating. Anodising is widely used in the aircraft industry and is will probally last longer than you keep the bike. It also doesn't cover up craks and corrsion or the like. What about painting them simple low tech solution but there is worse ideas around.

I find the micheline pilots are gret for the fist half to tow thirds of thier wear. Then they go crap really suddenly all out of shape and just genrally pretty average. Seems to be worse on heavier bikes like Guzzi's. Back the the gravel question i find the conbination of 120 front 160 rear to be quiet reansoble on gravel up to around 90 kph athough a hrad base helps. Obiously corners are taken a bit slower haven't tried much faster......yet

Anything will slide on gravel unless you go for knobbies. Don't think the 011 are any better than anything else athough find the sport to be pretty reasonble on gravel. Wieght back favour the back brake be postive keep the bike as upright as possible and grip the tank wit the knees basically ride it like a trail bike. Don't think going for a narrow frnt tyre would be of any real benifit think you are far more likely to get the benfit from a change to a 160 rear on a V11 athough will probally require a rim change as well. There are a couple of profiles you can get for the front I tend to go for the 70 profiles over the 60 series. You could try a 60 series to sharpen the steering a little.

Run bridgestone 011's (010 with different tread pattern) on the front 020 on the rear get aproximatly 16-20 000km's. Sport 1100 carbed the rear will gently slide on a cold morning in a low gear but you really have to provoke it. The older BT57's someone metioned are the equvilent of the 020 athough they didn't last anywhere near as long 8-9000 kms in my experince anyway. The pirelli evo provides (not the corsa) a good alternative to the 010 bridge stone and they don't bulge cup or scolop whatever you call it in your locality athough they are more pricey they also require another 4-5 psi over a bridgestone otherwise they tend to feel "tucky". Bridgestone has recently dropped the 010 and replaced it with the 012 (not to be confused with the 012ss which is a production race compund) I think it was to solve the wear problems with the 010's (why i don't use Michelen pilot sports). The 011 is a standard fit tyre fot the Suzuki GSXR range not readily avalible but if you ring the local bridgestone dealer that can get it for you cost is no different to the standard 010/012 I am trying this because I think the tread pattern was the major contributing factor to the uneven wearing on the 010's. Well thats my recommendation is 012 front or 012SS and 020 rear.

Ah well if its the side stand you could try winding up the rear preload a bit more to get some extra ground clearance. Every time I have dragged the sidestand on the sport it has simple ground not actually lifted the bike. However I have the carbed 1100 sport which has a 18 inch rear wheel and a tad more ground clearance than the 17 inch equiped machines.

Have you tried unscrewing the big loopy bit if wire on it? I an suprised it is strong enough and rearward enough the lift the rear tyre. Just watch your boot on the exhaust if you flick it down with your foot.

I ride w mainly with guys on japanese inline fours and myt bike spends a great deal of its time in the upper part of the rev range or up agianst redline. Enter the reason I am keen for a sixspeeder so I can drop the revs back down onto the torque curve instead of falling off the top of it. 160 psi both sides (what the workshop manual says for a new machine) no leaks after 73 000kms I'll leave em alone for now.

I understand it was a batch of springs in the 2002 run. The local dealer said something about a factory recall dunno how you would check that out but would be worth looking into. I understand that you do not have to remove the gaerbox to do this anymore so it is quiet feasiable to do it on the side of the road. However definatly talk to someone who knowes and get them to explian the procdure fully. Enjoy the new machine.

This is the biggest load of !@#$ I have ever come across no they don't. The local Guzzi guru of 20 plus years seems to think its completly unesscary. Unless there is something obiously wrong there is no need to mess with them. If you look through the service schedule of the Guzzi there will be no metion of retorquing the heads by the factory an they make the things they should know. Seen quiet a number of machines that get ridden big km's hard some raced the only time the heads get retorqued is after the head has been removed for some reason or another. Just ride the thing!!

Pfffttt what? there is at least two 1100 sports with more kms than mine locally. One has 90 000 the other has 120 plus. In in 1999 I sold a silver 1100 sport with 60 000km's I would of thought that someone who was serious about touring would of racked up more than the bunch of weekend warriors that genrally ride guzzis here.

Mario of thunderbikes (WA) was fiddling with a 2003 ECU athough I ethier didn't ask him why or don't remeber what he told me. Might be worth sending him a e-mail. General conseus is they run great but dunno about thier flexiablity with tuning. The 2002 they have on demo here runs very well espeacailly as it has so few km's on it. Going to see if I can get a day in the next week or two to add to them considerlably.

Silly question but did you notice any signs ther was something amiss withthe stems/seats. Using oil, valve clearances all over the shop metal in the oil low compression? I have very similar Kms on my carbed 1100 sport (73 000) this kinda talk make's a person parniod. Recent compression and leak down test showed full compression and no leaks valve clearances are very stable ie I only do them every 10 000kms cause there is no piont doing them every five and usally I wonder why I bother. (run 0.2mm or 8thou for both if your're wondering). Havn't really got anything to make me think things are going wrong however would be intrested to know.

Think those mounts are bolted on the V11.

Actually the local Guzzi guru said something about a recall regarding this very problem anyone else heard of it?

Dropping to forks will sharpen the steering withthe conservative geometry of the Guzzi you will probally get away with it, my 1100 sport has been dropped 10mm and the steering dampener removed for a number of years and havn't had any problems. Most decent suspension shops should be able to tell you what wieght springs you have and what you need for your wieght, give them the static sags and tell them what you have done. They rarely get it wrong in they are in doubt they will probally want you and the bike for half an hour to do it for themselves (staic sags that is). I live in a huge state with a realitvly small population (literlally bigger than teaxs by quiet a margin, 2 million people total population) with such a small population the roads are usally fairly empty but they usally pretty average condition well the back roads are anyway we leave the main roads for the Police. Decent suspension setup is worth 20hp on the road well our roads at least and a subject that occupies a lot of time regarding our motorcycles.

I had a chat to the local Guzzi guru and he said the new sumps do pick up from the very bottom of the sump. Whist he siad the bikes might well be loosing oil preasure he seamed to think it wasn't due to the oil pump pickup not picking up from the bottom of the sump. If the solution was so stupidly simple Guzzi surely would of fixed this buy now as this sump firt appeared on the Sport 1100i's and RS Daytona's funnily enough I havn't heard of someone cooking a bottom end on ethier if these models other than when the filter blew its seal and spun off. The guy then rode home 30km's put me off using anything else but UFI filters. Make no mistake some of these machines get ridden really hard but has anyone else heard of the earlier models cooking thier bottom ends?