Murray

The appropiate switch block but it might be worth shopping around as geniune aprilia bits can be pricey ideally the oem part as these tend to just plug in. You may also need to do some slight rewiring of the relays. However there was a rumour that the manufacturer's were pressing for standerised requirments for all countries rather than making slightly different bikes for each country. ie if a couple of countries require headlights on every bike out of the factory is built this way. Then you might be pushing it to find an appropiate switch block. Athough usally the Guzzi's (from at least the early 90's) when you crank the motor it is wired with the relays to drop the headlight out anyway.

The corsa's will always retian an Aura the first Ducati 916's and the series oro F4 MV athough MV keep floggin the high end limited eddition thing a bit too hard IMO. A street legal MGS yes the styling would see it the slammed over the front riding postion high seat hight high foot pegs and turning circle of an aircraft carrier due to it limited steering lock the inital rush might die off pretty quick. The are an excellent narrow focused track bike but I have one parked next to an 1100 sport and the sport is still a very effective roadbike.

I live in Western Australia I do change the mineral oil in rear drive every 5000kms it goes off not long after that I've found shock proof heavy is not a lot better. I'm not certian burping it does a lot be it seems to work for me.

Its an older carbed 1100 sport its already got the carbs/exhaust thing but basically the motor is down on compression mainly because of a "sports man like manner" its used rather than strip it just to patch it up I though we might try and extract a bit more fun.

Replace the seal and burp it again they do go occasionally. In 100 000+ kms I have only done this one to the 1100 sport I don't use redline basically because for the price it wasn't isn't up to the job.

Ghezzi Brian offer a "race" cough cough, tuning kit for V11's/1100 sport motors. Has anyone had anything to do with these, what is the end result does the motor idle like a top fuel dragster and work between the rpm of 8000 and 8250 rpm or is it still fairly flexiable. I went for a ride with a few of the boys and with 107 000kms it isn't pulling through to redline in the higher gears like it used too might be time to get serious about operating well maybe next winter.

Well this may be helpful. I had to pull motor and gearbox out of my 1100 sport at 25 000 km's. While we were there we decided to change the chain tensioner as I had heard little good about them. We changed it with an Ago style tensioner the stock tensioner left about 5mm free play in the chain at this distance. At approx 94 000kms we decided to change the timing chain pure because the acepted wisdom from the smug one (roper will make comments on this) was they were good for around 80 000kms the idle was also geting a bit fuffy and variable (1100 sport carbed version). The tensioner had lost it tension and the chain had stretched and the new chain fixed the idle problem athough I think I lost a litttle advance on the upper end of the rev range BTW my bike is ridden in a "Sportsman like manner" on occasions.

The fuel pumps will eventually gunge up and crap themselves espcially if you run the cheapest fuel you can find. With my carbed 1100 sport I occasionally have random problems from the relays its not the relays themselves as such but the gap between the body work and the underside of the gaurd that allows road grime to flick up onto the connections for them. clean with a bit of contact cleaner and usally all is well again on the road simply wapping the relays will clean the connectors enough to get things going again.

By the time you fit the Kliens I think you will find the out of pocket cost is well in excess what an aftermarket ECU or piggback unit will cost you not to metion the alternative electronic ignition and face it you don't want Delorto's. I have Kliens on my carbed 1100 sport yes they work well however round town would never be described as smooth they definatly use more fuel than injected versions of this machine I think the Guzzi's of old are smoother because they didn't have the same emissions to meet but more importantly they had much less aggresive cams and much heavier flywheels and other rotating internals. Kinda like the cali motors you won't get the V11 to run like the older motors the tune of the motor simply won't allow it. Yes it can be done but other than pure asthetics I don't think you will get any benfit from it whatsoever.

Anyone got a really high resolution version of this?

Never had a good experince with the metzlers especailly when they get old and worn athough not familar with the Z6's. I'd be getting rid of them Scura's had a reputation for pretty stiff shoocks especailly in the rear's might be worth getting looked at as you are probally much lighter than the average lard arse V11 rider (me included). With suspension start with your static sags first everthing works off the suitablity of the springs if they aren't right you're pretty hard pressed to get the suspension right. Find out if its got a steering dampener and back it right out this can cover up other problems and with the conservative geomerty of the v11's they are of dubious value. Genral riding be smooth sort out the braking and then tip in and power out just before the apex.

The straps to the pannier racks would prevent any tipping action, there are three straps on the rear.

The obious question what is the condition of the battery (do not be temped to jump start it then you will have and ecu fault). The battery will get to the piont it will turn the motor but not enough left over to run the ignition.

Trolly jack with a lump of wood under the sump to steady the bike as far aft as possible. Couple of tie down straps over a rafter onto ethier the pillion peg hangers or maybe onto the rear subframe with the seat removed (I don't have a V11 so exact instructions are a little diffcult) to pivot it onto the front wheel. Best to have two people to set it up. For next time Buy a !@#$ing stand.

You skimmed it too fast the Super Squalo is the supercharged Ducati powered machine from a local tuning house.

Might be of intrest Probally a litttle neater than the eaton setup and a proper screw compressor rather than a blower.

The MGS-01 is not liquid cooled only one is thats fitted with an aftermarket engine. Full fairing might be a neascary eveil for a road bike to help it ekk through emissions and niose testing. Dunno I don't think you are going to see a sports bike out of Guzzi for a while I think the Piaggio takeover has stalled that and the fact they are flat out making and more importantly selling tourers and road bikes that its segment they don't need to chase right now. From a corporate piont of view Aprilia has that covered pretty extensivly and probally a lot more effectivly than Guzzi will withthe current motor and drive train.

I think the best thing to remeber with starter is they need current really big current not to be confused with voltage. A engauged starter motor bassically shorts across the battery and draws all the current avalible usally around a couple hundred amps and then some (this is why the battery voltage drops). If we use the common analogy of water voltage is the preasure of the water and current is the volume. This is why the starter motor leads are bigger than anything else and while a partially blocked hose will provide preasure but not the volume the same with a bad contact on an earth or battery terminal. Just about every vheicle made uses a negative earth system (unless you have some horrid old lucas equiped pommy built pile of ......) where all the current flows through the frame to the negative terminal to complete the circuit. Well actually the current flows the other way but I'll leave that alone for a bit.

The V11 levers will not fit an 1100 sport as the 1100 sports have a cable operated clutch and the V11's have hydralic operated clutch. I don't know if pazzo do a cable clutch leaver I would suggest its probally very similar to the Aprilia SVX550. CRG do leavers for cable clutch but personally if you are going to change levers the rolla-click type ones are the go they are desgined to fold up rather than break in the event of a mishap. it looks like vlad can help us here not cheap though and you'll probally want a CRG leaver for the brake otherwise it would look odd. I wan't to upgrade my front master cylinder first though.

The genral concensuse is if you crank the motor for exptened periods it tends to do it someone was kinking around a number of 30secounds or so. But to be honest I wouldn't worry my 1100 sport which is 13years old and has 105 000kms hasn't ever had a problem. Some do do it and when it goes its expnesive and messy but only for the starter but probally 98% of these things are happily providing service pretty much for the life of the vehicle.

The venrable XT a while ago had a pretty big update including the switch to water cooling/fuel injection and uses the same motor as the Aprilia Pegaso range actually more like the Aprilia uses the same motor as the yammie. Athough here we only get the XT660X version which is a supermotard/street vesrion which seems kinda odd. Now if you want a big oil/aircooled single lunger you chioces are the DR650 the DR650 or the DR650. The KLR's are avalible here but for whaterever reason never really gianed any ground and pretty much universally hated for having rubbish suspension athough the DR isn't a lot better. I think to make a serious off roader guzzi really has to ditch the engine layout and probally the shaft drive. Maybe touring bike with a detuned aprilia 550 twin in it would be the go. Ktm's otherwise know as Kost Too Much have always been pretty average in the reliablity stakes fast when they are running and while they a new but it drops off pretty quickly after a couple of years. Parts are horendously expensive/hard to get too. The factory dakar guys usally have the mechanic throwing a new motor at the bike every night or occasionally every couple of nights. The stevio I'm still kinda keen on I will need to see one and ride one to be sure its not a must have first one out of the factory machine have we heard anything further? The Australin guzzi imported was saying how he is expecting Guzzi to outstrip aprilia in the motorcycle sales soonish (athough I suspect that doens't include Aprilia scooters).

Buck High!!

Value yes they know how to charge for it various alternives avalible depending on where you live int he world. The most common is the GM spanish built Barina (as known in australia) yo need an auto sparky that is handy and prepared to mess around a bit. But a starter motor for these mass produced !@#$boxes can be adapted to fit the geese. You still need to use the bendic drive and soleniod from the guzzi. An auto eletrcian that will not look at you funny when you say you want the starter motor to rotate the other way (pretty !@#$ing easy with DC motors reverse the polarity. So after you've picked up a motor from you local wrecker off you go. However before trying to do the local auto sparkies head in check the obious is you battery in good condition are both terminals tight whats the earth to frame contact like. The early V11's had a bad set of relays have you checked to see if you bike is affected. Whats the terminal striaght onto the starter motor like? is it clean tight and free of corrsion (nb remove earth battery terminal before going anywhere near this terminal with anything metalic). Is your clutch or side stand kill switches playing up and interfereing with the starting process. Is you handlebar kill switch full of grime and simply neeeds a good clean to get all well again. Basically yes you bike not want to start but look at the simple cheap stuff before you go sluprging on a new starter only to find a 5$ relay was all you really needed.

After just playing with one to find out its not the problem The "engine oil temp sensor" which is acutally the head temp sensor and has little to !@#$ all to do with the oil temp. What makes me say that I have a bike that has an additional temp sensor in the oil cooler and the reading out of that are radically different to the head temp sensor. Is a NTC (negative temperture coefficent) themocouple with a range of -40 to 170 ish degrees celcius. NTC means as the temp goes up the resitance goes down resitance at 10 degrees is around 3.7K ohm and at 80 degrees is 0.37kohm. Buy rights you should be able to bung a 10cent resitor in there and run home on that if it fails. The sensor does not earth through the cases oil preasure switch style but has a return line to the ECU. Hope this helps NB all temps are celcius/metric.

If the battery is getting a bit iffy it will initally show up in colder weather cheack your voltages and get a load test done before spending hours chasing your own rectum, an activity I seem to do a lot of these days.