Tom M

I painted my engine while it was in the frame. I did find that I had to keep the spray can well away from the engine in order to get more texture. I started too close and didn't get much texture at all. I just dug up my thread on this from 2006. I had to hold the paint can over a foot away to get the texture right.

Hi Al, I used the Harley texture paint back in '07. It matched the OEM finish pretty well and it's held up well. Here's a picture that I took after I applied it.

It looks like that bike is a special that the Guareschis built for a customer. http://www.guareschimoto.it/portfolio-articoli/guareschi-presenta-750-gc/

Me too.

The only tank that I can think of that might fit and accept the fuel pressure regulator is one from a fuel injected Moto Guzzi Sport 1100 from around 1996

I hate to say it but...kill switch?

Most if not all of the aftermarket cans work with the stock passenger footpegs. Based on the few aftermarket cans that I've heard the larger oval cans are a little quieter than the round cans. My MG Ti cans dent really easily. If I was looking for replacements I'd go CF. The crossover will effect how the bikes sounds too. The stock crossover is the quietest, Stucchi/Ferracci is a little louder than stock, and the Mistral is louder still.

If that happened to me I'd go with new aftermarket cans. Mistral makes round and oval CF cans for the V11. They're available from MG Cycle in the US. I'm sure you can find a vendor in Europe. Here's a link to the oval CF cans on MG Cycle site: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26&products_id=2531

The shift arm shouldn't be sloppy at all on the shift shaft if the pinch bolt is tight. I don't know where you would add nylon washers. As long as that through bolt is good and tight there shouldn't be slop unless the heim joints in the MotoBits linkage are wearing out. The tip of the stock shift arm will eventually break with the MotoBits kit unless it is reinforced. See this thread for more info: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19976&hl=motobits&do=findComment&comment=221633 I overdid it when I had mine done. Just adding a bead of weld to the inside radius of the shift arm tip would probably have been adequate.

"You have to install the "thru-bolt" slightly loose so not to bind the shift arm but in doing so add a fair amount of play at the motobits rod." I think that's your problem. All of the bolts on my MB setup are tight and there's no binding. The link that attaches to the long bolt/sleeve has a heim joint that should rotate freely. There shouldn't be any slop at all at the shift arm attachment.

All I can say is my IAB screws are at 3/4 turns out, my CO is set at zero, and the bike runs well. Edit: My IAB screws are one full turn out.

It does sound lean. If you've ruled out vacuum leaks it could be your CO trim is set way lean. Do you know what your TPS setting was before you touched it? Do you know what your CO trim is set at? Are your idle air bypass screws all the way in or out?

Here's a video that shows how one auto machine shop refaces rocker tips. He uses a fixture similar to what Chuck posted, but he grinds them on a grinding wheel instead of a sanding belt. Unlike the sanding belt I think that would keep the face parallel to the rocker shaft.

Does anyone know of a vendor who can grind a new radius onto a worn rocker arm? That seems like the easiest solution to the problem.

I believe Jaap installed a set of OZ wheels onto his V11 and he said it made a huge improvement in handling, and helped acceleration too. I think that's the way to go if you want significant weight savings for your V11 where you will really feel it. They will lighten your wallet significantly too if they're even still available.

I had the same issue a few years ago. The neutral switch had crapped out so I had to replace it. It was easy to replace but not cheap. Everything worked correctly again with the new switch.

I think the swingarm counts as unsprung weight too so that shock has even more work to do

My failed hose was not original. I replaced the original when it was about 10 years old because I had the bike apart so I thought I might as well replace that hose before it failed. As you can see the replacement expanded and got very soft from the crankcase fumes. I assume whoever made it used the wrong material for the job.

Here's a thread with steering damper dimensions: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14385&hl=shindy&do=findComment&comment=155021 I've been using the Shindy D17-001 without any issues since my Bitubo failed in 2009.

I had a hose fail a few years back and when I removed it I was surprised at how soft it had become and how much it had enlarged. I went through my receipts but I'm not sure which vendor I bought it from. It was less than 5 years old. Here's the new hose next to the failed one:

Here's the page from the parts manual that shows which end goes where.

I'm pretty sure that the shorter end goes to the frame and the longer end to the engine.

Ha! I agree Chuck. I bet it's a great bike under all that ugly though. Hopefully Husqvarna comes out with a better looking version of the same bike for those of us who don't like the KTM styling.

Swooshdave was looking for more broken spring pictures. Here's mine. I've had three springs break. I believe two of the factory supplied springs broke as shown in the attached picture. I also had a Cannon Racecraft (?) spring, which was made from a heavier wire, break at the tightest bend. I don't have that picture any more. I'd be happy to buy an alternative to the factory part if you guys come up with something. I can help with design and fabrication of any parts other than a spring if needed.