Tom M

:lol: That's hilarious Doc. I wonder if that one went for more than $10?

I ran the numbers a few years back but I haven't verified them with GPS or radar. From http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13940&hl=speed RPM = MPH 8000 = 141.39 7500 = 132.55 7000 = 123.72 6500 = 114.88 6000 = 106.04 5500 = 97.21 5000 = 88.37 4500 = 79.53 4000 = 70.7 3500 = 61.86 3000 = 53.02 2500 = 44.18

I bought one from Moto International back in the Spring. It's an exact match to my stock angle drive (which lasted 36k miles). Unfortunately it cost $90...

W/ the stock intake horns? I see "complete" air boxes on eBay, but they're usually missing the critical pieces we're discussing... Yup. I got the airbox, mounting brackets, lid w/horns and rubber ends all for $10.

I've battled with pinging quite a bit over the years. Assuming that your A/F mixture is correct I would say that pinging under load could be due to carbon buildup in the combustion chambers and on the pistons in combination with lousy gas. There are lots of decarboning methods and products out there. Give one a try to see if it helps.

Airboxes turn up on ebay fairly often. I got one for $10 a few years back because nobody else bid on it. I don't think there's a big demand for them.

Well I tried your method and damn if it didnt almost work perfectly. 1 full turn out on the bleeds, 250mv baseline tps, idle at 530mv/1100. I can now hold a line at 3-4k rpm and it will idle at stop signs and lights. There's still a little hiccup but lower in the rpm range. Its around 2k instead of 3-4. I may need to synch the TB's at a higher rpm and run in the bleeds just a tad but this is the best its run in a while. I'm usually by myself so i'm having a hard time synching the TB's at 1800. I still have some massive oil leaks coming from the top of the case behind the oil cooler to contend with. Thanks again everyone for all the help. That's good news. At least it's rideable now. If you can't get rid of the sneeze it still might be worth it to check your idle trim. The timing sensor in front of the left cylinder is a common oil leak source. If it's oily in that area you can easily remove it (2 screws) and either replace the o-ring or do what I did; add a little silicone gasket sealer around the ring and on the case.

Good luck with it and please let us know what the problem was once you get it sorted.

One more thing that you could try would be swapping the fuel injectors to see if the problem moves from the left cylinder to the right.

When my bike was lean it didn't cough until it was warmed up. Correcting the TPS cured it. It doesn't sound like yours is as far off as mine was so maybe the TPS isn't your problem. As long as you note what your air screws and TPS are set at now it wouldn't hurt to try the Micha tuneup. If you aren't happy you can return to where you're at now. As I said a while back, the easiest way to see if you do have a sensor problem is to connect your bike to a factory Axone reader or VDST. You could bench test the sensors according to the tables in the shop manual, but even if they test OK you won't know if the ECU is seeing their outputs without hooking up to a diagnostic tool. If you connect to the ECU you could check your idle trim setting at the same time. If the idle trim is way off that can really screw up your attempts to set the TPS. Chances are that means a trip to a dealer unless you can find a local Guzzisti with VDST. Where are you located?

Don't run your engine! Drain the oil (save for reuse) and pull the filter cover off the bottom of the oil sump. Chances are real good that you filter is loose.

Ignore the baseline setting altogether and follow the steps below. Make sure your right side idle stop screw is backed all the way off and the high idle cam isn't touching the throttle linkage before you sync the TBs and set the idle. When you set the TPS it may change the idle so you might have to go back & forth once or twice to get the idle & TPS settings right. Hope it works for you... Step one - Set your valves to world settings (.15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust) Step two - Set your air bleed screws to 1 full turn open. Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm) Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only Step five - Loosen TPS screws and rotate TPS to 3.6 degrees (530mV) Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This requires an AXEONE dealer tool or VDST software.

Well that's good news. Be aware that the engine temp holder is real easy to break with very little torque. Snug is good. Don't try to tighten it any more unless you have a spare ready.

All that I can say about this is my base TPS setting is about 250mV, not 150, and I've had my A/F ratio monitored on a dyno and it is right where it should be. You've probably seen this thread before but here's where the "Micha method" was first discussed on this forum: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13188&hl=Micha I would only advocate it for people like me who can't get their bikes to run right using the posted method.

I agree that it doesn't seem that the TPS setting is your problem. There are charts in the shop manual that shows what resistance you should see from the air and oil temp sensors at given temperatures. You could try testing those sensors, but it really would be easier and more accurate to see what the ECU is seeing by hooking up to the factory diagnostic tool or VDST. Apparently there's a Ducati diagnostic out there for free that will communicate with our ECU but you would need an interface cable. I don't have any details or experience with it but I'm sure you can find it with a little digging. Here's a source for the shop manual if you don't already have one: http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/moto_guzzi_misc.htm#gtb_workshop_manuals___shop_manuals___service_manuals Are you absolutely sure that you don't have any intake or exhaust leaks? A crack in an intake rubber, or to a lesser extent an exhaust leak near the cylinder could give the symptoms that you have. Hope this helps, Tom

A video wouldn't do anything for me. FYI some members whodon't have power commanders and have added pods and/or aftermarket exhaust have adjusted their TPS a little higher than .530 mV at idle to richen the mixture a bit. You might want to try .540 if you think you're still lean at .530.

The main difference isn't the 530mV setting, it'd the fact that it completely discards the steps that require you to set the TPS to 150mV with the linkage disconnected ,it says to just open the air bleed screws to 1 full turn and leave them there before balancing the TBs, and it has you set the idle at 1100rpm with the idle adjust screw and THEN set the TPS to 530mV. It's really much quicker and easier than the FAQ method. FWIW my tach is very close to what I see with VDST at idle. On the other hand my speedo is about 10% optimistic...

What a gorgeous bike. I saw it when BFG posted it a while back but it was well worth another look. Thanks to the both of you

At the bottom of the TPS post in the FAQ Dave included a chart that shows degrees of throttle opening and the corresponding voltages. .530 volts = 3.6 degrees, which is what the shop manual (and Micha) says the TPS should read at idle. The shop manual says 1050 +/-50 rpm for idle, most find 1100 is good. Honestly I don't think anyone could tell the difference between 520 or 530 mV. If your idle is 1400rpm but your tps is at 520 your engine is getting enough fuel for about 1000-1050 rpm which means it's lean. Before you bring your bike to a shop try the Micha method. BTW Micha is a mechanic at Moto International which is one of the largest Guzzi dealers in the country. If I recall correctly Greg Field, a fellow MI employee and forum member here, said Micha came up wit this method after tuning lots and lots of V11s that didn't respond well to the standard TPS setting method. Many members here over the years have used it with good results. Some, like me, Mr Bean, and badmotogoozer, absolutely could not use the method posted in the FAQ. Like you I found my idle was way too high if I did. I don't recall ever seeing a post from someone who said their bike ran worse after trying it, but many, like you and me, had trouble with the posted method.

I agree with Doc that it would be a good idea to check your idle trim with VDST, but if your idle is at 1400rpm and your tps is at 520mV I would expect your mixture would be lean even if idle trim is zero. IMO you should turn your idle down to 1050-1100rpm then reset your TPS to 530mV. I've had good luck with a simplified version of the V11 tuneup known as the "Micha Method": Step one - Set your valves to world settings (.15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust) Step two - Set your air bleed screws to open 1 full turn Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm) Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (530mV) Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This requires an AXEONE dealer tool or VDST software.

There were no LeMans in '01 and no red framed V11 LeMans ever from the factory. I've never seen nor heard of any V11 with white wheels from the factory. It sound like someone is trying to pass their custom painted bike off as a rare factory model to me.

This is terrible news. Godspeed Slavomir. Sincere condolences to his family and friends. Slavo contacted me a few years ago asking if I would mind acting as an intermediary for the purchase of a closeout Bell helmet from a vendor that would only ship to North America. I was a little apprehensive because I had been burned doing a favor for a member of another forum that I had never met, but the transaction with him was flawless and he came across as a genuinely great guy. RIP buddy. Ride careful out there folks.

If that is not a joke ....RIP guzzista (:-O I too really hope this is a hoax. I don't have a facebook account so I can't see anything there but I did try searching a couple Czech Republic newspapers with his name and didn't come up with anything. I hope he checks in here soon.

Well, St Augustine had a pretty nice rear end closeup posted in his "What motorcycle is this?" thread over in the banter department...

IMO too many organizations already have too much access to our personal info. I called my credit card company a while back about a bogus charge and one of the ways they verified my identity was by verifying my bank balances and recent transactions. Clearly they had up-to-minute access to my bank account and the card was not issued by my bank. WTF?