Tom M

The stock bar end weights are steel. You could remove them and have a section turned down at a machine shop to fit the bar end mirrors. If you try this you need to hold the bar end tight to keep it from rotating as you remove the screw in the end. It will be TIGHT. Did you know that you can get extended versions of the stock mirrors? I have them on my LeMans. They used to be available at Buell dealers. I don't know if Harley shops can still get Buell parts. Here's the part number info that I have from 2006: Buell part numbers for extended mirrors to fit LeMans= N0161-2A8 (left side) N0162-2A8 (right side) About $20 each. Buell part number for standard LeMans mirrors= N0161-02A8 (left side) N0162-02A8 (right side) About $25 each. Note the extra zero in the part number for the standard LeMans mirrors. If you aren't very specific with the part numbers you may get the wrong mirror. I got the extended ones because I didn't like looking at my elbows with the stockers.

I use the Micha method because I couldn't get my TPS to 150mV with everything disconnected. The solution is don't bother with the 150mv setting. Getting the TPS reading to 525/530mV at 1100/1150rpm is what you need to concentrate on. Did you back the right side throttle stop off then use the left side stop screw to adjust the idle? I didn't see that in your writeup. If not then here's what you might want to try: - Connect the link between throttle bodies - Back all the way off on the right side idle stop - Set the air screws to 1 full turn open - Start the bike and warm it up to operating temp - Make sure the fast idle cam isn't hitting the right side throttle - Use the left TB throttle stop screw to adjust the idle to 1100-1150 rpm - Now set the TPS to 530mV Hope this helps...

Whatcha movin' on to? Whatever it is I hope you have a ball with it. My final question is...how long before you realize you made a huge mistake and you're back in the market for another Guzzi?

Assuming the shift linkage isn't binding it sounds like the notorious shift pawl spring has broken, which is probably what you already suspected. Fortunately it's not too hard to replace. Belfastguzzi has a great writeup on how to replace it in the how-to or FAQ section.

Howdy! Figured I would introduce myself here. I'll be picking up a 2001 V11 Sport on Friday. This will be the 4th Guzzi that I have owned. I currently have a 2009 V7C and in the past had a 1980 V50 and a 2007 Griso 1100. I really can't wait to pick it up since I've been looking for one for a few years now. Here's a pic of the bike I'll be getting. Ken Welcome Ken! It looks like you're buying our moderator JRT's bike. Congrat's on finding a well sorted and cared for V11. Have fun with it.

I agree that they're really expensive and I'm not sure that I'll get another Shoei unless I get another screaming deal on one. I got my RF1000 cheap on ebay because it's bright red (not cool?) and it had GOLDWING silkscreened on the sides. The GOLDWING paint came right off with a little work, then I removed the SHOEI logo too. I added a Guzzi eagle a while later. The foam padding in my HJC compacted after about 3 yrs so it was too loose and moved around on my head above about 70mph. Very annoying. My Shoei is still pretty tight and very comfortable after 7 yrs. I'm not ready to retire it yet.

I have no compaints about wind noise with the RF1000 but I usually use earplugs too. I do think it's quieter than my old HJC. This review says it's "subjectively one of the quietest helmet that we've tried", but that was back around 2000 when the RF1000 was first introduced. I would guess that other manufacturers have probably caught up by now. http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/shoei/rf-1000/ Shoei came out with the RF1100 a while back so maybe there's some good deals on the older RF1000 out there?

Yes. A lot of guys have had "flame outs" or stalling with a hot engine when running .10/.15 valve lash. Supposedly the .10mm int/.15 exh was the spec for US bikes only, possibly to meet noise regulations. Guzzi spec'd .15/.20mm for the rest of the world and not surprisingly it works here too! Some guys run .20/.25 (.008"/.010")in really hot or race conditions.

Felix, You might want to give Shoei a try if your HJC fit you well. HJC and Shoei seem to fit my melon best among all of the helmets that I tried on. My RF1000 is getting old but it's holding up much better than the HJC did.

There are instructions pinned at the top of the FAQ on how to set your TPS, adjust the air bleeds and balance the throttle bodies which, along with a valve lash adjustment, is what passes for a tuneup on these bikes. I've had good luck with a simplified version known as the "Micha Method": Step one - Set your valves to world settings (.15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust) Step two - Set your air bleed screws to open 1 full turn Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm) Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (530mV) Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This requires an AXEONE dealer tool or VDST software. Once you've done this the only other tuning that you can do is change your PCIII map. A dyno run with an exhaust analyzer will tell you if your current map is in the ballpark for not much money.

Plugs are cheap. Throw in a fresh set then see how they look after a few rides. If they're crusty again there are lots of possible causes. If the TPS is off it could be running rich. A dirty air filter will make it run rich. An incorrect PCIII map could make it run rich. Excess oil in the combustion chamber will leave residue on the plugs and in the combustion chamber. I'd suggest that you check the air filter and if that's OK you might want to bypass the PCIII and see how it runs and how the plugs look. Finally you might want to check the TPS. It should read 525-530mV at idle with the key on engine off. Instructions on how to take the TPS measurement are in the how-to section. If you don't mind doing your own work sooner or later you might want learn to do a full tuneup yourself. It's not very hard to do. Hope this helps...

Do you know if the shop that overhauled your forks used Marzocchi seals? Aftermarket seals don't always work as well as OEM. FWIW mine are still good at 36k miles.

I would like to suprise my wife with a boob job, but I think it would look silly on me. :lol:

Hello, Many here either back off or remove the idle adjustment screw on the right side throttle body and only use the left side idle screw for idle adjustment. This is because there's play in the ball end connection of the rod that links the two throttle bodies. The throttle return spring on the right side TB will remove all of that play as long as the right side idle screw isn't making contact with the throttle cam. Hope this helps...

I found that small safety pins worked well for taking readings at the TPS. No need to pierce the wires, just slide them down into the connector until they stop.

That's a beatiful bike Enzo. I'm afraid I'm not in the market for one but I'd love to see a few more pictures, especially some that show more of the custom swingarm. Good luck with the sale.

I had that problem a few years back and greasing all of the shifter pivots definitely helped but didn't completely cure it. The shifter still occasionally stuck on very hot days after a long ride on an interstate. When I changed a broken pawl spring that summer I greased the shifter shaft before reinstalling it in the case and that seems to have cured the problem. If I had to replace the pawl spring again I would replace the return spring too while I was in there.

If I'm not mistaken the Guzzitech ECU is a reflashed stock unit. If you go with that you don't need a PC. If you buy a PC you shouldn't need the reflashed ECU. If you have a good tuner nearby it seems like adding a PC to your current setup will be the easiest and least costly way to go. Todd will sell you a PC with a map for your bike already loaded then you can bring it to your local guy for further mods if needed.

It sounds like it might be the factory "Racing" ECU the comes with the Ti exhaust kit. If so it's the same as the stock WM15 ECU except it has different fuel and ignition mapping and possibly a slightly higher rev limit. The only shop that I know of that can remap it in the USA is Guzzitech. If you add a Powercommander there are lots of shops that can create custom maps. If you buy a PC from Guzzitech they will usually load a proven map for your model year and mods.

I know Fox Racing does suspension and clothing, never heard of them doing any electronics. Do you have any pictures of it?

It sounds like the Cafe Sport was crashed really hard if both heads have broken fins. I'd be afraid of an engine that had taken that hard of a hit. Hopefully Pete Roper will check the pics and take a guess at what happened to Harry's engine.

That's awful HaydnR. My condolences to your friend Harry for the blown engine but at least he didn't crash and get injured. I hope he can find a good used motor to replace that one since the rest of his bike looks to be in beautiful condition. I'm no expert but my first guess on the cause of the rod letting go would be an oil filter that had backed off. Harry should have seen the oil pressure light on if that's the case, but it could have been missed in traffic. He should check to see if the filter is still tight. It might be a good idea to remove it and check the gasket too.

Thanks for that Roy. I'll give it a try the next time I pull my fairing off. Hubert, I agree that my battery was fully charged when I took those readings after a 2 hour ride yesterday. My concern is that my battery might not be getting a full charge on shorter trips at a more sedate pace. Sometimes it struggles to start after sitting for a while too. What I really should do is bypass the relay harness to see if my bike charges at a higher rate without the harness, then plug in the harness and see if the charge rate drops, but it seems like Roy and dark bike have already done this. It would be nice if you or someone else here who has a stock V11 could check their charging rate just to see if the they jibe with what others in this thread are seeing. I do know that the PC545 manual states that you should not use a charger that puts out less than 14.2v or more than 15v. Wouldn't it be better for my battery if my bike was charging at a max rate of ~14.5v instead of 13.9v?

I finally got around to taking some measurements after a ride last night. Here's what I got: key off = 12.9v idle = 12.6 2k rpm = 13.1 3k rpm = 13.6 4k rpm = 13.9 Both the battery and the regulator are about 2 yrs old. It seems that the EB headlight relay harness might be effecting my charge rate as Roy has suggested. Is there a simple way for me to get my charge rate up without removing the relay harness or cutting the factory wiring harness?

Welcome Mar and congrat's on your new V11 Cafe. Got any pics?