Tom M

Engine mounting bolts on any bike can loosen up over time. I found a few engine mounting bolts had worked themselves loose when I bought my bike with 7000 miles on it. Check them all including the porkchop bolts and hit any loose ones with blue loctite.

Welcome Duane and congratulations on your Daytona barn find! While there are definitely some members here who know a bit about the Daytona this site is mostly focused on the 1999-2004 V11 Sport and LeMans with the 2 valve per cylinder engine and six speed transmission. There's a subforum for older Guzzis here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showforum=37, and there are a couple other forums out there where you might find some fellow Daytona owners. http://forum.guzzitech.com/forum.html http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?board=1.0 There are some great sources for Guzzi parts out there too. Here are a few that I've had good luck with. http://www.mgcycle.com/ http://www.harpermoto.com/ http://www.motointernational.com/ http://www.mphcycles.com/ Let us know how you like that beast once you get it going and congrat's on finding a very cool bike

Sorry to hear of your crash but happy that you weren't badly hurt. Have your V11 checked over very carefully before putting money into repairs. There have been many reports here of cracked timing cases and transmission castings as well as bent frames from relatively slow crashes like the one you describe. Will your insurance replace it if it's totalled?

It's a good idea to bleed the clutch too since it's easy to reach the bleeder with the wheel out of the way.

I believe Belfastguzzi went through something similar with his Griso. Maybe there's some good advice for you in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14516

Welcome back Slavomir! Nice Duc you have there. Now let's see a pic of your Sport

My 02 has one. Did you get an owner's manual?

When you added the higher bars it shifted your weight rearward. Try sliding the fork tubes up through the triple clamps 1/2" or so and crank up the rear preload a bit to compensate for the weight shift and see if that helps. Do you have stock springs front & rear? I agree that that's an '02 based on the forks and the tank in that picture. I believe the '03/04 bikes had in-tank fuel pumps without the chin pad and different forks and caps.

I've had that problem in the past and I fixed it by adjusting the valve lash (.006" intake/.008" exhaust) then syncing the throttle bodies then setting the idle and the the TPS. That said I think the "flame out" that you experienced is probably due to the valve lash tightening up when hot possibly combined with a low idle. Check you valve lash, adjust it if needed then set your idle to 1050rpm and see if that helps.

The Kneeslider did a little writeup on that motor a few days ago. It will be interesting to see how it pans out but I don't see it in a motorcycle anytime soon. http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2011/09/08/duke-engines-5-cylinder-4-stroke-3-injector-valveless-axial-engine/#more-16087

The Pirelli Angels are working out to be the best compromise between handling and mileage of any tire that I've used on my LeMans.

Congatulations BFG! http://www.cafepress.co.uk/+my_grandpas_motorcycle_infant_bodysuit,262330749

Thanks for the annual reminder again Okie and thanks to Jaap again too. My donation is on it's way.

A Power Commander that works with a 2000 V11 will work with your 2004. Where do you live? If you're in the US then the 02 sensor that Guzzimeister mentioned shouldn't be a concern because US V11s don't have them. The 2004 bikes did have different fuel mapping than the earlier bikes so a PC map that was done for an earlier bike won't work well with yours. If you buy the PCIII from Todd at Guzzitech he will supply an appropriate map for your model year bike with whatever modifications you may have.

The first thing that I'd look at is the throttle body boots. Are they tight and free of tears? I don't know if the RM has an electric petcock but if it does that would be worth checking too. If those are OK I'd let it dry out and see if the problem corrects itself.

Hi Mike and welcome to the group. The carbon fiber fairing, front fender,side and starter panels were available from the MG factory. They may have been standard on a few of the special models. Have you tried a dealer for NOS parts? I bet they would be expensive but they might still be available. If you can live with used parts keep an eye on ebay and the classified section of this site. You could also post to the Wanted section of the classifieds here. I bet there are some silver Sport owners who either have the parts you want or they might be up for a trade. Good luck.

We missed you and your family this year Jason but since you're a thousand miles away I guess you have a good excuse. My only beef with the bagpiper was that that he started right next to my tent at the crack of dawn. I chose a new camping spot this year . It's been a hot summer here too, similar to when you were here last year which is mild compared to STL, but it wasn't bad over the weekend. The jackets came out when the rain showed up. It's all good!

We may not have met but I definitely saw you on the Honda Roy. Thanks for all the work that you and the Yankee Beemers club did!

I was there again this year too. I don't think I met you Roy but I saw your RM. Once again I had a GREAT time. Huge thanks to Tom Halchuk, Tim F, Sean R, Doug & Jacqui, and the rest of the Guzzi Massholes who make this happen. Thanks to the beemer crew too! You can add me to the list of folks who didn't miss that bagpiper. I rode over to Jim Hollerich's Trail Bike Museum in Cheshire on Saturday. It was fantastic! If you like old dirt bikes it's definitely worth the visit. I helped Jim move an old Bultaco Matador that he just restored out of his basement and up to the barn/Museum. It was a great day.

Ha!!!

Jason & Jaap, we need pictures! That windmill project sounds cool. And a strip poker float? That should be interesting. Felix, If that baby furniture is for your baby, Congratulations! It's good to hear that you can still ride in the desert out there too. Henry, you're thuch a thavage! From the $hit that's keeping me occupied when I'm not riding dept: I'm fixing an old GPZ1100 with a burned valve for a friend. I reinstalled the cams last night and hope to have it running soon. Shim under bucket tappets are a pain in the arse! Guzzis are much simpler but this has been a good learning experience since I've never worked on an in-line four before. Next I need to go through the carbs. This is it before the teardown. Anybody want to buy an old Kawasaki? Other than that I'm doing a retaining wall and drainage project at home and visiting colleges with my son. Exciting stuff huh?

Grossohc's mate Harry stripped the paint off his and repainted with Harley crinkle paint- and did this I believe with the motor in situ. Did a good job from what I remember when I saw it. I did the same thing. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9756&st=0&p=110415entry110415

Is this the tiny allen screw on the back side of the left throttle body? None of my shop manuals clearly identify this one, but they do say that there is a 2nd screw that should never be used to set idle. Yes it's a small allen screw that probably has yellow glyptol or paint on it. Twist the throttle while watching the left side throttle body and you should be able to see which screw is the throttle stop. Don't touch the big white knob, that controls the sychronization between throttle bodies. You can use the left side throttle stop screw to turn the idle up a little but if you try and turn the idle down you need to use the stop screws on both throttle bodies. You might need to dig the glyptol out of the allen screw head with a pin. Many here including me back the right side throttle stop screw off so it doesn't stop the right side throttle because there is slop in the ball joint that's part of the throttle linkage. Backing the right side stop screw off lets the spring on the right side TB take the slop out of the throttle linkage so both throttle plates move in unison when coming off their idle position. Some use a feeler gauge to set the right side throttle stop screw very close to the throttle plate once the idle is set, other just remove it altogether. I hope that made sense...

Welcome Rushmix, The simple answer is you need to use gas with enough octane so the engine doesn't ping/preignite/knock/detonate. Some Guzzis ping with 92 octane, some run fine on 87. If I had non-ethanol gas available I'd use it over the ethanol blended stuff. It seems that some plastic fuel tanks swell, deform or blister from ethanol blends.

Here's my As you mentioned you should go in with the valve lash set/throttle bodies sync'ed and TPS set correctly so that you know you're working from a known good baseline. Both times I had mine done the operator warmed the bike up then did a full throttle run with the exhaust probe installed then looked at air/fuel ratio readout and the power curves to see if there were any spots where he could make improvements in the map. I had to ask him to do some partial throttle runs because I was looking for possible lean spots that might be causing pinging around 5k rpm. You'll need to tell the operator exactly what you're after, particularly if you have a troublesome area that you want to correct. Also, don't pay much attention to the peak hp and torque numbers as they can vary considerably between dynos. The shape of the curves and the area under them make more difference in street performance unless you ride around at 7500rpm all day. If you're looking to improve grunt out of corners without making much more noise an aftermarket rear crossover might help. Below are a couple dyno runs done on my bike, the first with the stock crossover and the second after I added an FBF crossover. Note the difference around 4200 rpm. I attribute the improvement to the crossover. Greg Field tested some crossovers on the dyno a few years back and found the biggest midrange gain with the Mistral crossover. My bike and I believe Greg's too have MG Ti exhaust cans so I don't know if you would see the same midrange improvements if you change the crossover and keep the stock cans. Here's his crossover thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11564&hl=mistral My bike with stock crossover. Note the power and torque dip around 4300rpm: ...and with Fast By Ferracci crossover. Note the improvement around 4300rpm: