Tom M

I would look at the crankcase breather hose that runs from the top rear of the engine to a fitting behind the steering head.

It looks like Jaap put his below the steering damper in front of the oil cooler. I think the Tenni's might have had the pump mounted there from the factory? Others here have installed firesleeve insulation over the fuel lines. Make sure your lines are well away from the heads. If you remove the airbox you will probably need to adjust the fueling with a Powercommander or MyECU.

In my experience the 525mV idle TPS reading is more important than the baseline 150mV reading with the linkage disconnected. If you can't get both readings forget the 150 and get the idle right. You should check the engine off idle TPS with the throttle linkage connected, the throttle closed and on the idle stop screw, and the high idle cam not contacting the throttle. Just doing the baseline won't do you any good at all if the idle TPS is very far from 530mV. BTDT The bike will cough, pop, run hot and occasionally stall if it's running lean.

Congrat's on your new bike buzzard and welcome to the site! Kudos on that kill switch diagnosis too. How about some pics of the new beast? FYI if you decide that the ergos don't exactly work for you there are other footpeg and handlebar options out there. Fueling can be improved too, but often times a basic tuneup fixes a lot of issues.

I'm pretty close to you John. Shoot me a PM and maybe I can help.

Congrat's on your 2nd place finish JC! Thanks for the pics and video too. Do you race a 2 stroke Yammie Joe? Too bad I didn't get to see you race. I doubt anyone cares but the bloke in the blue shirt in the original post is former racer and current SPEED F1 commentator David Hobbs

I didn't see the old bacon slicer on the track, but he might have had it out during the morning practice session before I got there. Is it just me or does that folding work table look a little scary?

If you like old race cars and bikes and want to kill some time you can see my pictures here. Here's the only Guzzi I saw on the track. The bike sounded great but he didn't do too well. Would you race on a home made BRAZED frame? I was told that this was the last Aermacchi/Harley factory racer imported to the USA Some of you F1 fans may recognize the bloke in the blue shirt who was kicking around in the pits. There were lots of cool cars and sidehacks there too.

The sidestand switch is supposed to prevent you from taking off with it down. Since you were able to take off with the stand down someone must have disabled it (at only 400 miles?). There should be a switch where the sidestand attaches to the engine with wires running up under the tank. Some people disconnect them under the tank and attach a jumper wire between the harness wires so the bike will start regardless of sidestand position. If you can hook it back up again you won't need a self retracting stand. Here's how I pull the tank on my '02 Lemans. It's a little different for the post 02 bikes: - Close petcock - Pull the seat then remove the tank bolt - Loosen hose clamp on gas supply line and slide it off the petcock - Disconnect fuel level sensor - Loosen clamp on gas return line and slide it off of fuel pressure regulator - Lift rear of tank and pull back until regulator hits side cover - Lift front of tank and slide it forward so regulator will clear side panel - Lift back of tank about 8" high, reach underneath and pull vent hose and overflow hose off - Lift the tank off Something else you might want to look at when the tank is off is the one way tipover valve on the drain hose. If it isn't oriented and clamped verticle it can cause tank venting problems. Search on "tank suck" for details. Good luck!

I replaced mine this past winter. It hadn't failed but since I had the tank off and the jugs off I figured it was a good time to get it before it failed. I have no special tips on replacing the hose but I would advise you to locate the bullet connectors for the sidestand switch and make sure they're nice & tight and don't any have tension on them when the bars are turned as long as you have your tank is off. Lots of people here have had starting problems due to intermittant contact at those connectors.

The neutral switch is screwed into the shifter plate below the starter. It has a single wire running to it with a rubber boot on the end and a flimsy connector inside the boot. If you only see a brass post down there the wire has fallen off. If so pinch the connector a bit with some pliers before putting it back on. The switch itself can fail too (mine did). It's easy but not cheap to replace. Gearbox fluid will come out of the hole if you remove the switch so have something handy to plug the hole if you do remove the switch. Hope this helps...

In addition to checking all those bearings you might want to verify that all your engine, transmission & pork chop mounting bolts are tight. I don't know if it would cause a wobble but dragging rear brakes from a dirty caliper are common on these bikes too.

I had those symptoms on a previous bike and it was caused by a loose battery terminal connection

OLD MUSIC ALERT Previously unreleased tracks from the Exile On Main St recording sessions. http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=126743273#on

Hope you got your problem solved. That battery bug looks like it would do the trick but where would you mount it on your Sport? Here's a single multi color LED that could probably be installed in place of the charge light. Heads Up Voltage Monitor Here's a "splash proof" LCD volt meter that might work well. Martel Meter And there's always the Kuryakyn gauge too.

You're right Docc, Raz summed the thread up well. Lemppari, I think you are correct and will need to alter your fuel map to get rid of the lean hiccups assuming your TPS is not set up too lean. The PCIII is the easiest solution for most of us in the US because there are lots of PC tuning centers here, but I've seen posts on this forum about shops on your side of the pond that can remap your ECU directly. I don't know where they are but it may be another option for you. Raz makes a good point, if your idle trim is not set to zero it can cause problems with PC maps. Unless you know someone who already has the VDST package the easiest and least costly way to check it is probably to visit a Guzzi dealer and ask them to plug their diagnostic tool into the ECU and check the setting. I'd be happy to check it for you with my VDST but I'm not exactly right around the corner from you... A caution on the VDST package: My wife got me the standard VDST package for Christmas after I was assured by Todd at Guzzitech that I could alter the idle trim setting with it if I needed to. I have found that it works great for setting the TPS and checking other engine parameters including the idle trim, but so far I cannot see any way to actually change the trim setting with it. My trim setting is at zero so I didn't spend a lot of time trying to figure it out, but be aware that you might need the Pro version to change the idle trim value.

Nice job Dennis Do you have a voltmeter mounted on your bike? If not you might want to think about getting one now that you don't have a functional charging light anymore. I like having one but I can't recommend the one that I have because it occasionally gives wacky voltage readings which I have verified are wrong by checking with a quality hand held volt/ohm meter. Here's the one that you don't want: http://www.compacc.com/p/Show-Chrome-Digital-5-Function-Volt-Meter/1119003/0 Anybody have any recommendations for a small digital volt meter?

It seems you're having the same problem setting your TPS that I had a while back. This thread might help you out. If you decide to add a PC you might want to try and get the TPS, valve lash, and throttle body balance all set correctly so you have a known good baseline before having a custom map done. When I added an FBF crossover to my bike it did get a little bit louder, but the increase in noise was not nearly as significant as going from stock mufflers to straight-through mufflers like your Mistrals. IMO the elimination of the 4k rpm torque dip that the V11 has with the stock crossover was well worth the slight increase in noise over the stock unit, but anyone within earshot who doesn't appreciate the sound of a fine Italian twin when I open it up might not agree

Obviously you need knobbies on your Guzzi Ben. Apparently they're worth about $1k apiece based on that ebay sale I made the mistake of riding on the street with knobbies in the rain once. Turning on a painted crosswalk was like hitting black ice. Instant crash. Good luck to whoever bought that beast.

Hi Jaap, I've had Ballabio bars and risers on my LeMans for a few years now. I assume the Cafe Sport bars are the same? If so they will work with a few tweaks to keep the switchgear from contacting the fairing at full lock. I rotated the bars slightly back toward me, and I moved the fluid reservoirs a little inward. Pics:

When I order from them the stuff shows up on my doorstep withing 2 days. Since you're in Boston now (when did that happen?) I think you can expect the same Jason. That grease gun fitting I mentioned was available at my local Ace Hardware store too. We should do a ride sometime...

113mm looks like what's recommended in the thread below. If you have a set of vernier calipers you should measure your wheel and your spacer to see if the numbers agree. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5537&hl=wheel bearing&st=45

My stock rear wheel bearings were both SKF brand. 6204-2RSH on the brake side, and 6204-2RSH/C3 on the drive side. I replaced them both with /C3 SKF bearings (made in Argentina) from Mcmaster-Carr. Part number 6661K105. In my experience Mcmaster ships almost instantly and has very good prices and shipping rates. They also carry a grease gun fitting that will reach the elusive front Ujoint zerk; part number 1090K47. If you want to make your bearing replacement go easier consider something like this: http://www.pitposse.com/whbereset.html. Here's a review: http://www.4strokes....osse/wbremover/ . I used a drift when I replaced my rear wheel bearings and it was a bit of a pain in the butt. I bought the pitposse set after that and used it to replace my front wheel bearings and it was very easy. If you measure your wheel bearing spacer and find it just a tiny bit short you can purchase bearing shims from mcmaster that will take up the space between the spacer and the inner bearing race.

How 'bout some pics Gene? I love those spoked wheels on the V11

So did you race to that cafe on your cafe racer??? Nice job Guy.