Tom M

Is 18" long enough? http://www.newenough.com/parts/luggage/tank_bags/cortech_by_tour_master/tri_bag_strap_mount_motorcycle_tank_bag.html

Fork springs will run from $80 to $140 if you change them yourself. You can get straight rate springs from Sonic Springs or Traxxion Dynamics. TD didn't have them on their web page the last time I looked but they do have them for the pre-'03 'zokes. Todd at guzzitech has progressive rate springs. I went with TD before I knew about the sonic option, I think they were about $100 or so. Here's an article I had bookmarked on setting your sag that may be helpful: http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_set_your_static_sag/index.html Do you know what spring rate is being used on the Penske? You're going to like your V11 even more once you get the suspension dialed in!

My 02 LeMans has Marzocchis that match your type c description. Black with chrome legs, solid axle threaded on one side, compression damping adjustment on one side and rebound on the other.

My - Roll the tech forum, the 24/7 V11 forum, and the Tenni forum together to create a single V11 forum. Call it THE V11 FORUM. - Create another section for all other Guzzis including the Carcs, and allow all general motorcycle related posts there too. Call it something like OTHER GUZZIS AND GENERAL MOTORCYCLE TOPICS FORUM? Keep the trashtalk section as-is for non-moto stuff. - Roll the FAQ and the how-to sections together and only allow posts to them that are approved by the moderator(s)so it will be a reference only forum. Questions can be asked in the other forums. Call it FAQ & HOW-TO. - Do away with the new member introduction forum and allow new members to introduce themselves wherever they want.

It's been a looong time since I contributed anything here so I guess I'm due. Everyone who wishes they were 21 again raise your hand. That's not your hand.

IIRC Greg Field did it and posted the parts that he used. Search his name and fairing and you should be able to find it.

I like those better too. A thin red pinstripe between the black and grey along with red pinstripes on the rims might look good on the last one.

Is that a horizontal refridgerator? Cool. Now we know who gets to haul the beer!

Did you say gold??? Sorry to say I'm not a fan of that paint job Jaap. It's not bad but I think it could be better. I usually like some combination of black/silver/a little bit of red on a lot of bikes. That said, it's your bike so go with what YOU like.

In one of the old threads on this someone recommended getting a headlight relay harness from http://www.easternbeaver.com/ . That's what I did a few years back and it made a big improvement in light output. It was pretty much plug & play except I had to run a new wire for the little running light in the headlight. There wasn't enough room in the LeMans headlight bucket so I attached the relays to the underside of the fairing frame above the headlight. Definitely a good investment

I doubt the PC is your problem but you could try disconnecting it to see if it cures your richness. Typically aftermarket exhaust makes these bikes run lean, not rich, so swapping back to the stock pipes probably won't help. If you really want the bike to run properly you need to set valve lash, sync the throttle bodies, and set TPS correctly before you start messing with the power commander. It really isn't too hard to do, but if you don't want to try it yourself I would hope there's a shop nearby that can do it for you. There's a 3 page thread in the dealer's section of this website on UK dealer recommendations where hopefully you can find a mechanic if you need one. At a minimum you should check what your TPS setting is at idle with the engine off and the fast idle lever backed off. All you need is a couple small safety pins and a volt meter to check this. If it's way over 530mV that's probably why you're running rich. By the way, here's a simplified way to set up your engine that many of us have used, known as "the Micha Method": Step one - Set your valves to world settings (.15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust) Step two - Set your air bleed screws to open 1 full turn Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm) Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (530mV) Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This requires an AXEONE dealer tool or VDST software.

Another possibility is your TPS setting is off. It should be set at about 525mV at idle. If it's a lot more than that it will run rich. See the Throttle Position Sensor thread that's pinned at the top of the tech section if you need to know how to check it. If you have a Power Commander it will be plugged in between your ECU and your wiring harness under the seat. Follow the wire bundle that's plugged into your ECU. If it doesn't lead to a plastic box in the tail section somewhere you didn't get the PC as advertised.

This is no help to you now Mike but in the future you can drop the sump to change the filter etc without disconnecting that rear oil line. The one time I disconnected that line to repaint the sump I had a slight weep there when I put it back on the road. A little more torque on the nut got rid of the leak.

That's certainly cheaper and easier than replacing tires and respringing your suspension! Now go have some fun on that Scura

That gauge looks familiar Roy, but I used ATF. One slight problem that I ran into was over time the tubes kinked at the top zip tie because I stored it standing up. I need to fix that before I use it again. I'm surprised you needed to use zerks on the intakes. My '02 has fittings with very small orfices that prevent rapidly sucking the ATF in if the balance tube fell off or, as what happened to me the first time I used it, one of the tubes flops against the exhaust and melts through. Maybe a previous owner ditched your fittings when he removed the vapor canister?

I hope you're right about a Griso only race series Guy. I'd love to see and hear a video of that! I hope that ugly little fairing isn't mandatory though . I'm surprised that Guzzi or someone else hasn't come up with a half fairing for the Griso yet. It seems like it would be so simple to remove the wings below the Griso tank and fabricate a half fairing that attaches where the wings were. Maybe one of you Griso guys could give it a shot?

I think Greg Field posted his dyno testing results on K&N vs paper filter in stock and modified airboxes along with different exhaust crossovers a few years ago. Search his name + dyno and you can probably find it.

Sorry for your trouble there John but glad you weren't hurt. Do you know if your bike was included in the recall? Here's a post from a guy with a redframe that had a similar problem. Good luck with it. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14642&hl=recall&st=0

Hi Jamie, Guzzi went to a wider rim & tire combination in '02 so you can't drop down to a 150 like Bob did. Most of the guys here with the later bikes that have tried dropping a size from 180/55 to a 170/60 have really liked what it did for turn-in (including me). Obviously if your rear tire is squared off from too much straight line riding that will have a huge negative effect on turn-in too. The best thing you can do to help handling is to get your suspension adjusted correctly. There's lots of info on setting sags and making damping adjustments here if you do a search. Another thing you can do to help turn-in is raise the forks 10mm or so through the triple clamps, but don't try that until you have your suspension sorted first.

RIP Johnny. So sorry for the loss of your friend Pete.

These pictures from the gallery came up when I looked here this morning. V11 meticcio, if you see this thread please tell us about this exhaust. I've never seen one like it before. Very cool!!! From http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&module=user&user=6773&do=view_album&album=89

Since I happen to have the Phil A airbox mod threads bookmarked I might as well include the links in this one... http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12100&st=75 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8924&st=30 Drilled lid pic: Widened bellmouth pic:

Congrat's to you and your son Foto! He and his teammates have some talent. Hopefully there's a scholarship offer for your boy when he graduates... I live in that other hockey hotbed, Massachusetts. Winning the state championship is a big deal here too. I'm still playing twice a week and coaching my son's teams when I'm not injured

Thanks for that and thanks again for the deal on the valve springs. I put a hundred miles on it today and took it through the ping zone at full throttle in 3rd, 4th & 5th gears at different times during the ride and again no pinging whatsoever. It's really looking to me like it's fixed and I'm thrilled that all that work and expense seems to have paid off!

I took my first ride with the refreshed top end today and it seems like mission accomplished: NO MORE PINGING! I went full throttle in 4th gear right through the area where it used to ping a few times and it pulled cleanly with no pinging at all. I can't say for sure the problem is 100% gone yet, but based on the 75 miles I rode today it sure seems like it is. I got a PM from another forum member a while back who said he too installed MR pistons and had a valve job done and his bike didn't ping at first but the problem did return later. I'm hoping I have better luck than he did. In the end my problem may have been caused by the worn valve stems and guides allowing too much oil into the combustion chamber and the resulting carbon may have been causing the ping. I probably could have just done the valve job then had my stock pistons recoated with fresh anti-friction coating on the skirts and have the thermal barrier applied to the crowns, and gotten the same results as I did with the MR pistons. Time will tell I guess bit for now I'm very happy with the results of my top end work.