Tom M

It's an easy fix for someone like you who has a lathe in his shop Chuck. It took my machinist quite a while to get around to making those spacers for me. I can't blame him for taking his time. There's no money to be made doing little jobs like this.

I posted instructions on how to replace the stock reaction rod bushings with spherical bearings in the "How To" section here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19880

Here's what it looks like when installed.

Here's a picture of the reaction rod with the spherical bearing pressed in and the spacers and seals nearby. The old bushing is behind the rod.

The reaction rod that attaches to the bevel box and the frame has rubber and steel bushings pressed into each end at the factory. They can wear out and create unwanted movement of the bevel box and slop in the drive train. Replacement bushings are not available from Moto Guzzi, and I was unable to find replacements anywhere else. I did find some spherical bearings that could be pressed into the reaction rod, but since they are thinner than the bushings they replaced and they have a larger ID I needed to have a set of custom made spacers made. Once those were done I put everything together and it seems to work just as it should. I attached a drawing with specs for the custom spacers and McMaster-Carr part numbers for the bearings and seals. I'll post a few pics in another post. MOTO GUZZI V11 REACTION ROD WITH SPHERICAL BEARINGS.PDF

I've used the wire brush on my bench grinder to clean carbon off of pistons before. It took 5 minutes and didn't seem to effect the aluminum in any way. Was that not a good idea?

I've used the Motobits setup for many years now. It works well and I still really like it. Just like the stock setup it needs to be disassembled, cleaned and lubed every once in a while. I wasn't crazy about the non-folding footpegs so added folding pegs and put rubber covered tips on the shifter and brake levers. I haven't had any problems at all with the long sleeved bolt itself, but you should be aware that it puts much more torque on the tip of the stock shift link that attaches to the shifter shaft than the stock linkage does. Other members here (Slug?) have had that part break at the first bend above the tip. I checked mine out a few years ago and it was starting to crack so I put a new one on then had the old one welded with bracing to beef up the tip. Here's a pic of my shifter side before beefing up the stock shift link.

I didn't strip the old paint Scud. I just cleaned it and lightly sanded the fins where the factory paint was peeling.

I repainted my heads when I had them off about five years ago. I used some kind of high heat spray paint from the auto parts store. Probably VHT but I can't be sure. They're holding up just fine.

There's a wide range there Tom, can you remember which part No you used for the coils / ECU Thanks Roy I just looked up my order history there. The ones that I used are Mcmaster part # 4403K588 "Extreme-Temperature Vibration-Damping Sandwich Mount, Male/Female, M6 Thread, 25 lb. Compression Capacity".

If you're running the stock 2002 ECU with a PCIII you might want to try the gh67 map in the fileshare section. It's much better than stock and it should be better than adding fuel across the board.

I haven't had good luck fixing those anti-vibe mounts with super glue, but I probably didn't do a good job with the prep. The replacements that I got from mcmaster-carr have held up well so far. https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/1442/=16wwkwq

The paint has held up really well after five+ years and 18k more miles Scud. I bought the paint at a hobby store but I don't remember who the manufacturer was. It's probably still kicking around my basement so I'll post that info if I can find it. I think the color was "international orange". I found the paint. It was Model Master Enamel # FS12197, and the color was international orange. It does seem to be holding up better than whatever Vague-lia used.

The paint has held up really well after five+ years and 18k more miles Scud. I bought the paint at a hobby store but I don't remember who the manufacturer was. It's probably still kicking around my basement so I'll post that info if I can find it. I think the color was "international orange".

Phil, FYI McMaster has rubber bearing seals that might work where you used orings. They should keep dirt away from the bearing but could possibly trap water? I ordered a set to try with my new bearing setup. https://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-end-bearings/=16qj8ht

I pressed a pair of spherical bearings into my stock reaction rod the other day and they fit nicely. I'm having a set of spacers machined now. I'll post the details with pictures once I receive the spacers and get the rod installed.

My suspension guy couldn't find bushings to replace the stock parts so I ordered a pair of spherical bearings. I'm also getting custom bushings quoted. I'll update this thread if/when I make any progress...

I've bought bearing shims from McMaster-Carr. They should have what you're looking for Czakky.

Dunlop seems to think their new Roadsmart III is better than Michelin Pilot Road IV. I'd be thrilled to get more than 6k miles out of a set of tires. http://www.motorcycle.com/products/dunlop-roadsmart-iii-performance-touring-tire-review

Good thinking there Scud. Do you think that location would work with the stock hugger? FWIW my remote preload adjuster is attached to the back side of the passenger footpeg bracket on the right side of the bike. I don't have any close up pics but you can see it in this shot.

Is that a spherical bearing, Tom? Hi Chuck, No that's the OEM bushing in the stock rod. If my suspension guy doesn't come through with a replacement bushing I'm going to look into alternatives with a spherical bearing.

Here are the measurements that I took from my stock part. Still no word from my local suspension guy on replacement bushings. REACTION ROD, MG V11 OEM.PDF

I don't think that will work well work unless the the front and rear pivot points are exactly aligned. There probably needs to be a little side to side play in case the the alignment is a little off due to manufacturing tolerances or less than exact adjustment of the swingarm pins. I have all of the measurements needed to create your own rod but not with me now. I'll post them later this week for anyone who wants them. Yes a

Waiting to see if my local suspension guy can source new bushings for the stock arm. He's had it for a few weeks so I should know one way or another soon.

This 1100 Sport (?) looks pretty good to me. From http://www.moto-studio.com/gallery/