Tom M

Sorry to see you leaving the Guzzi fold Jens, you will be missed. Best of luck with your new bike. Hope to see you back on a Guzzi some time in the not too distant future!

I liked the lower and further back position of the Buell footpegs, but there wasn't enough adjustment available with the stock Guzzi parts for me to get the shifter and brake pedals low enough to where I liked them. I used the Buell pegs for 2 years then installed the Motobits kit, which has very adjustable shifter and brake pedals. A couple pics: I made a few changes to the kit to suit me. I replaced the motobits aluminum toe pegs with modifiedTarozzi parts to get rubber covers, and offset the brake arm inward toward the motor. The only semi-complaint that I have is the non-folding pegs. I get a little worried about them catching on the road when I'm leaned over hard so I might work on installing some folding pegs this winter.

Thanks for the great idea Dan. I'm hoping my new Guzzi spring never breaks, but if it does I'll give this a try.

FWIW on my bike the stock spring lasted about 15k miles and the Cannon Racecraft spring about 7k. The spring boss on my pawl was oversized so I ground it down to the proper diameter before installing the Cannon spring. I have about 3k on the "improved" factory spring now. Has anyone out there had the new Guzzi spring fail?

Guzzis are great if you prefer to work do your own work. Adjust the valves, sync the throttle bodies, check and maybe reset the TPS. Instructions on how to do each of these tasks without an Axeone are all over this board and in the FAQ.

I just wore out a set of Conti Road Attacks. I liked them better than the Z6's I had on there before, but I only got barely 5000 miles out of the Conti's while the Metz's were good for 8k. Next up: Roadsmarts. Let us know how the Pirellis work out for you BFG. The quest for the perfect tire continues.. PS Is that an ABS sensor on your carc?

I would load a "zero map" to the PC, hook it up, and see if the bike runs any different than when the PC was removed. That should tell you if the map was the problem or the PC was the problem.

Glad to see the bike running better but yikes, that's a massive torque dip at 4500. Based on my experience you will see a gain in torque and lose the 4500rpm dip by just adding an aftermarket crossover. The previous owner of my bike had a custom map done. I added an FBF crossover later, and recently did a dyno run with no changes to the map. You can see the improvement in the torque curve. Dyno charts are here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=161148 Does the bike idle for more than 30 seconds now? If so what solved that problem?

Hi Nigel, Does the connector on your ECU face up towards the seat base or down toward the rear wheel? If it faces up damage to the harness could be from the seat base flexing and contacting the ECU connector on the harness. I recently had an intermittent electrical fault that appeared to be the PCIII harness. More troubleshooting proved that the ECU itself was damaged, apparently from lack of sufficient clearance between the seat base and the upward facing ECU connector. I don't know if the ECU was installed at the factory or by the previous owner with the connector facing up, but if yours is facing up consider flipping it over or you might have more problems in the future.

The black plastic plug on the 15M housing that's shown in the pictures above is just a vent. As Nils mentioned, there's no potentiometer on the 15M.

As Paul suggested, going to a dealer that has an Axeone tool and knows how to use it is your best bet for getting your fuel trim adjusted properly without shelling out too much money. An alternative to the dealer approach is technoresearch VDST software. If you buy that you'll still need access to and exhaust analyzer to set the fuel trim properly. http://www.technoresearch.com/Products/VDS...ke_Features.htm

The TT is being replayed here in the USA on the HD theater channel, which might only be available to cable and sat tv subscribers. I've seen two practice sessions plus some history so far and it's good TV. The interview with John McGuinness made me chuckle when he showed how his name was put on back of his leathers. I dug around a bit and this is the best shot that I could find. (It's not a .jpg so I can't post the pic here.) http://www.flickr.com/photos/95854743@N00/...057594121809704 The actual race is on this coming Sunday according to the schedule here: http://dhd.discovery.com/tv-schedules/seri....128168.38048.1

Who makes that bike on which you are sitting?

That might be Tom Halchuk's map that you're after. He is member th_01 on this site and he's the MA MGNOC rep.

Check out Greg's V11 with the Ballabio bars and motobits foot controls. I have the same setup on my LM and I'm completely comfortable putting around like it's a cruiser/Harley. The LM fairing is not as effective at high speeds as it was with the clipons, but the wider and taller bars do improve low speed riding.

Another good thing to carry if you have the room is a gauge like the one below. You can add or bleed air while the chuck is clamped on your valve stem. Very handy if you or a buddy needs to add a few pounds at a gas station with an air chuck that won't fit past your brake disk.

I think the idea of the micha method is to get the TB's adjusted so that the bike idles good at 1100 rpm and THEN set the TPS to 530mV by loosening the torx screws and moving the TPS. I might be mistaken but it sounds like you're trying to achieve the 530mV by turning the idle stop screw. This running fine for 30 seconds then coughing and dying sounds like there might be another problem though. Does it seem like the bike runs fine until it heats up, then it goes lean on one cylinder? My brother had that problem on a dirt bike way back when, and he eventually tracked it to a crack in the cast aluminum intake manifold that was opening up once the bike got warm. If something like that is happening on your brother's bike I would think one of the plugs would look leaner than the other after a brisk ride.

Welcome Mike and congrat's on the LeMans. When my voltage regulator failed I got a solid battery light, nothing intermittent like you're seeing. Does the light come on only at idle or at any specific rpm? If it's just at idle your idle may be too low and/or you have a weak battery. If you search the board here you'll find lots of information on charging circuit troubleshooting. I used the info I found here to track my problem to the voltage regulator. The only "special" tool you'll need is a voltmeter capable of measuring DC and AC voltage. I'm sorry I didn't save the links to the threads but I'm sure they're still out there.

I know there are others besides me who couldn't get their V11's running right using the 150mV baseline. In my very limited experience setting the TPS to about 530mV at 1100rpm idle is much more important than the 150mV setting with all the links and stops backed off. It doesn't hurt to try it if the conventional method isn't working for you. Note that the step 6 idle trim adjustment mentioned above must be made with an Axeone tool or VDST software. It might be be a good idea to know what the idle trim is before getting a custom map made. I recall one member here who found that his trim was set to a maximum value which threw off his tuning efforts.

Based on my experience with only my bike I say ignore the 150mV baseline, assuming that you don't have an intake leak. When I used that as a starting point there was no way I could get the bike to idle at around 525 mV. Eventually I used the "Micha method" to set my TPS and my bike runs better than ever. The method is: Step one - Set your valves to world settings Step two - Set your bleed screws to open 1 full turn Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm) Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (I forget what that translates to in mv..someone here will know) Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero from this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...88&hl=Micha

I don't see why this wouldn't work for you as long as you're willing to trade less rear wheel travel for lower seat height. If you're happy with the spring rate that you have now a shorter spring with the same rate and the same preload setting should work as long as you make sure that there's enough preload to prevent the spring from being totally slack when the shock is fully extended.

I'm in central MA but I'd be happy to meet up with some local V11 owners if my schedule permits. As Jason mentioned, joining the Northeast MGNOC group will connect you with other local Guzzi owners too. You can get on their email list without actually joining MGNOC. http://www.geocities.com/mgnoc_mass/index.html

I was a machinist and a CNC programmer many years ago. I didn't do much lathe work but I did lots of vertical mill work. I'd love to have a little home shop but I wouldn't do enough work to justify the expense of the machinery. I am keeping an eye on craigslist for a small milling machine though. I'll sell my big old drill press if I find the right one. It's very hard way to earn a living as a machinist nowadays in my neck of the woods. Shops are closing everywhere and a lot of very talented people can't find work in their trade. The machine and sheet metal shops that I work with are all struggling in this economy. I'm sure it's even worse in the upper midwest with the auto industry tanking

The stock setting is the top of the tubes are flush with the top of the clipon.

I think we did this subject already. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=mandello Is it true this time, or will Piaggio issue a denial again?