Tom M

Welcome Pieman. It sounds like you have a very nice bike there. Here's my take on your surging... Like most bikes the V11's are mapped lean from the factory to meet emissions regulations. When you add freer flowing exhaust components the A/F mixture gets even leaner. I believe you have 3 choices; 1. Live with the lean symptoms. 2. Put some or all of the stock exhaust back on. 3. Add more fuel via a Powercommander, MyECU, or other mixture altering device. Good luck with whatever you decide to do

If you buy from Todd at Guzzitech I think he'll provide an appropriate map. http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-15M.html

My '02 with Marzocchi forks uses two different bearings: 52x 25x 15 mm = 6205-2RS 52x 20x 15 mm = 6304-2RS I don't know if your Scura is different because of the the Ohlins fork. If you have the hollow axle I'm sure it is, but I think those came on later bikes? Hopefully a fellow Scuristi will chime in One of my front wheel bearings felt a little gritty the last time I had the wheel off so I ordered the set from mcmaster. They will go in the next time I pull the wheel, but this time I'm going to use a real bearing puller. I don't like beating them out with a punch so I got this: http://www.pitposse.com/whbereset.html

I got the rear wheel bearings from McMaster-Carr for about $11 each a couple years ago. Their part number is 6661K105. The bearings I got were SKF 6204-2RSH/C3 GJM (made in Argentina). They also have a grease gun fitting that will reach the front U joint if you need one. Part number is 1090K47. www.mcmaster.com

I installed Ballabio handlebars and risers on my LeMans. According to my measurements the risers are 55mm (2.2") tall with an 8mm offset toward the rider. The bars are 29.2" wide, 1.7" rise with about a 4.5" pullback. The bars and risers are "fatbars", about 1 1/8" diameter at the clamps. If you go with 7/8" diameter bars & risers you'll have a greater range of choices at lower cost, but they might not be as strong as the fatbars. Sometimes I think the bars are too high and wide, most of the time I think they're fine. Adjustable bars like Covertibars or the ones that forum member Zebulon sold here might be a better choice if you're very picky about positioning. pics:

This guy does nice work. Too bad he hasn't done a Guzzi yet. http://www.christopher-marshall.co.uk/gallery.html

Hi Guy, I just noticed that you have a Triumph Sprint 1050 in your sig line. Maybe I haven't been paying attention but is this new? How do you like it? I'm only asking because a friend of mine might be in the market for a bike like that once he sells his current bike. I think the Sprint, an FJR, or a Concours 1400 will be on his shopping list. Do you have any comments for a possible future owner?

I skimmed through the repair manual and saw the ECU mounted both ways in different pictures. I've seen a few pics posted on this site from US guys that showed the ECU mounted with the connector facing up like mine. Maybe the factory installed them both ways? Maybe whoever installed the PCIII on my bike changed the ECU orientation? I don't know, but I'm going to flip mine over so the connector faces down before I suffer another mysterious electrical problem.

I just wanted to let mznyc know that my bike didn't run well when I set the TPS up using the method posted in the how to section. I had much better luck with the Micha method which ignores the 150mV "linkage disconnected" setting, and has you balance the TB's and set the air screws and idle before setting the TPS. Details are in the thread that I linked above. Let's try and keep this thread focused on ECU problem & repair.

I believe my baseline TPS is about 250mV. I set the TPS to about 530mV @ 1150rpm. See my saga here if interested: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...88&hl=Micha As I mentioned above, I think my seat is hitting the ECU connector if I slam into a bump. I'm going to find some shorter shock mounts for the ECU. I should probably pick up a couple more nights of hockey too. Apparently I need to drop some weight. When I was trying to figure out the fuel pump priming problem I hit a point where the pump was priming with the seat off, but when I put the seat back on and sat on the bike the pump wouldn't prime. I wiggled and pushed on the relay and that didn't help, then I pushed on the ECU connector and heard the relay trip and the pump prime. I repeated it about 10 times with both the PCIII plug and the stock harness plug to narrow the problem down to the ECU. I got lucky. edit: I like your idea of flipping the ECU over. I'll do that before I ride again!

FWIW I put a piece of clay on top of the harness connector where it plugs in to the ECU, then I put the seat on and bounced on it a few times. The clay showed VERY little clearance between the bottom of the seat and the harness connector. I'm guessing that my seat has contacted the connector a few times and that's what caused the etch to pop at that connector pin. Maybe it's time to lose some weight

It's a radial lead component, probably a capacitor, that's bent over onto the board and gooped into place. That's the same goop that they used to attach the cover to the ECU case.

On my bike the stock ECU with a good PC3 program pulls strong from 2k rpm to redline, but my butt tells me that the Ti ECU pulls harder above 4k rpm. I'm going to run with the Ti ECU for a while and see if I can either tweak the map to get it to run better, or try someone else's map if they will share it with me. The single best thing that I've done to my bike was to set the TPS using the Micha method. I believe the Ti map that I'm using now is off because the previous owner had the map created without getting the TPS set correctly first. I don't know why but my bike runs like crap if the TPS is set to 150mV baseline (with the linkage disconnected).

I found the broken etch and repaired the ECU. Here are the pictures in case anyone else ever runs into this problem. Top side of ECU board: Back side with screwdriver pointing at connector pin with broken etch: Repaired:

That might work for a little while but I wouldn't trust it for long. It would be just my luck to have it fail 150 miles from home. In the rain. The bike wouldn't start after I gassed it up the other night. I popped the seat off and pushed on the connector, heard the relay trip and the fuel pump prime, put the seat back on and it fired right up. I rode home and parked it until I got around to installing my spare ECU last night. I think it's kind of strange that once the bike is running there's no problem. Anyway, last night I installed my "Ti Race" ECU and a PCIII map that I ran with it a few years ago and it's running good. I think the map could use some adjustments, but it will do for now. I removed the cover from the faulty ECU and took out the PC board. I'll check it under a microscope at work to see if I can spot any broken solder joints. If the problem is a broken etch inside the board I doubt I can fix that without a schematic. It's nice to not have to worry if the bike is going to start every time I hop on

Does anyone out there have a PCIII map for a pre-03 V11 with Ti ECU, aftermarket crossover, and modified airbox? If so and you don't mind sharing please respond or shoot me a PM. TIA, Tom

I got the same results with the plug on the PCIII harness and the plug on the stock harness. That indicates to me that it's the male receptacle on the ECU that's the problem, not either of the plugs.

I found the problem, it's the ECU. I rode the bike for 40 minutes to get it good and warm, shut it down for 5 minutes then tried to restart but again the fuel pump wouldn't prime. While in this "no prime" mode I found that with the key on I could push on the ECU connector and trigger the fuel pump relay, every time, with or without the PCIII in the loop. Initially I thought it was a broken wire in the PCIII harness but when I took it out of the loop and plugged the main harness connector into the ECU I realized that it was pressure on the connector, not the wires, that would trigger the fuel pump. I did this at least 10 times and I'm convinced there's a broken etch or solder joint in the ECU. I don't know why I didn't pick up on this the first time I swapped ECU's. My only guess is the the alligator clip jumper wire that I used to ground my extra ECU wasn't adequate. I was using the stock ECU with a downloaded map that I've tweaked over the last 2 years to get the bike to run really well. My spare ECU is the Ti version so I'll have to get a new map if I'm going to use it. Do any of you guys have a spare pre-03 ECU that you'd like to sell?

Over the last week or so I've noticed that sometimes my fuel pump wasn't priming when I turned on the key. The starter would turn over but the bike wouldn't start due to no fuel pressure. Sometimes it would prime 10 seconds after turning on the key, other times I'd try different combinations of cycling the kill switch, wiggling the bars, and shifting in and out of neutral. I also swapped relays around and swapped in a new fuel pump fuse even though the old one ohmed out good. Eventually I'd hear the pump fire the bike would start. It would be OK for a few days then intermittently act up again. There was no one thing that I could do to consistently get the pump to fire when it was failing to prime. Last night I pulled the fairing & tank and checked the clutch switch wiring and sidestand switch wiring. They both ohmed out good and had good connections to the wiring harness. I couldn't think of anything else to check so I put it back together and it fired right up. It fired right up again today when I rode it to my daughter's soccer game, but acted up again when I went to leave. When I got home and shut it down the pump wouldn't prime again when I turned the key back on, regardless of what I did with the bars, shifter, or clutch. Swapping relays didn't help and all of the fuses are good. I pulled the tank and checked all the connections again, and this time I checked the fuel pump connections too. Everything is solid. I put a meter on the pump connections and verified that it's not getting power with the key on so the pump is not the problem. I disconnected the clutch switch and put a jumper on the harness, no change. I plugged a spare ECU in, no change. Battery shows 12.5 volts. I'm stumped. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do next? My only guess is start looking for chafed wires. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

It's not just ugly exhausts coming out these days Guzzirider. Have you seen the new BMW? They have to be kidding. They've taken their "Bill the Cat" headlight design to a new level of ugly.

The last spring that broke on my bike was a Racecraft spring. I'd recommend the "improved" Guzzi spring as seen here: http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=139 I've changed the spring twice now and I haven't used sealant on the cases either time since the factory didn't use any. No leaks yet

I bet your problem goes away with the Elf oil. 40w is too thin for really hot weather. Also as RH advised, adjust the idle up to >1100rpm if it isn't already there.

Greetings to you Lars. Installation of a muffler under your gearbox will change the power characteristics of the engine, probably similar to what the Quat D users have seen assuming the construction of your muffler is similar. Your really should consider having a custom PC map made after you install your custom exhaust. Good luck with your project and be sure to share some pics with us when you're done

Using good oil makes a difference here too. You are using a full synthetic 20w-50, right? I had a car that started showing it's oil light at idle on hot days, but oil pressure was more than adequate everywhere above idle. After much mechanical mucking about didn't fix it I switched from 10w-30 dino to 15w-40 full synthetic and I never saw the oil light again.

An exhaust leak can cause this to happen too.