Tom M

I had a little fall yesterday and got a nice 8" crease in my Ti can thanks to a rope tied across a friends gravel driveway. I followed Hal's instructions here and got the can to look pretty damn good. I did 2 things different though: I used a 3" PVC pipe to work on and I worked the dent with a large rubber mallet. The rubber end, not the handle. See pics below. Before: Of course I had to get my favorite beverage in the shot. In progress: After: Thank you Hal!!!

Congrat's on the new bike! 30mph in 3rd gear sounds like you may be lugging the motor. Try to keep the revs above 3k rpm. If it still chugs you might want to check the sync (balance) between the throttle bodies, and maybe check the TPS adjustment. Lots of info on both procedures around here. If the sync and TPS are set correctly and it still chugs, your bike might be lean in that range because of the Mistrals. A power commander and proper map would fix that.

Have you bled the clutch yet? If you did and it didn't change anything you might want to read this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14093

Congrat's on your beautiful new bike! The mount that screws into the lower triple clamp has a lock nut on it. If that comes loose the mount might move side-to-side a little bit. Make sure that lock nut is tight.

Congrat's on the new bike miki. Did you get the gray Ballabio that Mark909 posted back on page 1? If so...nice bike! If not... As mdude said, good tires and properly adjusted/resprung stock suspension will make a huge difference in the way the bike handles. Dropping the rear tire size will quicken the steering up, and you can drop the forks 10mm through the clamps to quicken it up even more. I think most guys here with '02 and later bikes who have tried a 170 rear tire never go back to the stock 180. Ohlins forks and shocks to fit this bike are rare and expensive. Ditto for lightweight wheels. Springs and fork oil are cheap and there's plenty of suspension tuning info on this site. Your choice. Now let's see some

Yup, it's definitely easier to check the linkage first. I just wanted to mention that I managed an upshift or two with a broken pawl return spring. I did grind the pawl boss (no cover involved) down to 15mm from 16mm when I replaced the factory spring with a Cannon Racecraft spring. FWIW I posted a couple pics here when I had to replace the broken Cannon spring with the "improved" Guzzi spring last month: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...2943&st=120

It sure sounds like the shifter pawl spring broke to me. The pawl can flop against the drum and allow an upshift or two after the spring has broken. The first time mine broke I upshifted once or twice before I figured out what happened, but couldn't downshift at all. Also, I'm sure that some post '02 bikes have had the failure too. Bill Hagan's Ballabio did IIRC. Seoulman, please let us know how you made out. I've replaced my spring twice now using BelfastGuzzi's instructions that are linked in the FAQ and it wasn't very hard to do.

Motobits aren't rearsets, they move the pegs down and forward. The Buell pegs are the only footpeg replacements that I know of for our bikes that move the pegs down and rearward. That said, I think it would be easy for a machinist to make new footpeg mount plates for the motobits kit to put the pegs where you want them. You'd need a longer shifter link rod too, but that would be easy since it's just a threaded rod. See Motobits pics here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=motobits

I had occasional "flame outs" when pulling up to a stop sign a few years ago. A valve adjustment plus a throttle body balance cured the problem for me.

Welcome to the group and congrat's on your new V11! If you have any questions or run into any problems with your bike this is a great place to ask for help. Pretty much anything that can go wrong with these bikes has been discussed here in the past. The search tool will usually turn up the info that you need. I tried to buy a bike that looked just like yours from a guy in Princeton back in 05. I forget if he sold it or decided to keep it, but the deal never got done. I wonder if it's the same bike? If you've ever noticed a red & grey LeMans tooling through Princeton that was probably me. I ride out that way quite often. I have a neighbor with a silver red framed sport that rides out your way a lot too. There are lots of local Guzzi nuts enthusiasts on the New England MGNOC email list. If you want to join there's a link to the list from their web page at http://www.geocities.com/mgnoc_mass/index.html

There are usually V11's available in New England, you just need to look harder. Here are a couple on craigslist that popped up using searchtempest.com. I'm sure there are a few at dealers too. http://burlington.craigslist.org/mcy/1097782241.html http://nh.craigslist.org/mcy/1058623936.html Scura on ebay in NY: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-Moto-G...A1%7C240%3A1318

Beautiful job there Mille More pics please. You might want submit pics to Jaap for Bike-O'-The-Month. I'll bet this would be a real strong candidate for BOTY come December.

Me too! Sorry for your Griso woes too BFG. If there's anything we can do to help please ask. Sorry for the OT guys, back to your meet planning (wish I could go).

VERY nice! I hope someone here can translate the details from German for us English only dummies...

Here's a thread with a link to some pics that may help: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=11013&hl=

Did you ensure that the idle trim is set to zero? That's the part of the Micha method that requires the Axone dealer tool or VDST software. If not it could be that your idle trim was set way too lean by someone trying compensate for an incorrectly set TPS. That might be why the bike won't idle.

I recently installed the NAPA gold filter mentioned above. It's both shorter than stock, requiring a slight reroute of the fuel line, and smaller in diameter than stock, requiring some shimming to fit it inside the stock clamp. I wrapped it in duct tape . Next time I'll find something closer to the stock size.

I'm no mechanic but I'll take a wild guess here and suggest that maybe the return circuit in his clutch master cylinder is clogging and not letting all of the fluid back into the reservoir when he releases the lever. If it does it again he may want to crack the banjo bolt at the MC to see if there's pressure there when the lever is relaxed. If so the MC needs to be cleaned.

I just installed the "updated" Guzzi spring last night. I assume that's the one with the larger diameter coil? The spring that broke in my driveway yesterday was a Cannon Racecraft spring that I installed 7k miles ago. When I installed it ground down the boss on the pawl to 15mm. Here's the broken Racecraft spring next to the new Guzzi spring: Here's the pawl boss that I ground down to 15mm from 16mm (.590" = 15mm): The good news is I had a great ride today and the shifting was better than ever with the Motobits kit I installed over the winter.

I just had my second spring fail 7k miles after the first one, which went at 15k miles. The one that just broke was a Cannon Racecraft spring. It broke in the middle of the coil, and yes the boss on the pawl is was reworked to 15mm. I just replaced it with the updated guzzi spring that I bought from MG cycle after the last failure. Kudos again to Belfastguzzi for the replacement instructions linked on the FAQ page. IT BROKE IN MY DRIVEWAY AS I WAS ABOUT TO LEAVE ON MY FIRST RIDE OF THE YEAR. What are the odds of that happening? I'm just glad it didn't break when I was a lot further from home...

Welcome Steve and congrat's on your new bike! When I read your first post and saw the bike was stored outdoors my first thought was there's a mouse nest in the airbox. It sounds like the TPS was the problem, but you might still want have a peek at that air filter if you haven't done so already.

When I replaced my fork springs I followed the advice from forum members here and set the oil height to 100mm, which is measured with the forks fully collapsed and the fork springs removed. Even though I pumped the damper cartridges a lot to get the air out, I still found the rebound side oil level was substantially lower when I went back into the forks a few weeks later to make oil height and preload spacer adjustments. FWIW I ended up using 5wt oil on the compression side and settled on an air gap of 110mm or so to get what I consider a nice ride. Remember that my 40mm Marzocchi is different than yours...

Here's a simple race removal tool. Maybe someone on your side of the pond has something similar available? http://www.pitposse.com/ststberare.html

Nice work slug. I'd suggest you knurl it so you can reset it at the gas pump with a glove on.