Tom M

Yes you can. Just attach your meter to the TPS wires, turn on the key and get your idle baseline reading (twist the throttle a couple times to make sure it's repeating accurately), then loosen the TPS screws and adjust it up or down. I leaned mine out a bit by moving it down 10mV at idle, and I feel and hear a difference. I think it pulls a little harder now, but it's also pinging a bit at certain rpm in high gears. I'm going to move it up 5mV when I get around to it and see how it responds.

Sorry for off topic but I bet this conversion will become popular in the future when the electronics become unobtanium. What did you do for spark John? Mille, damn nice bike!

If I were you I'd just stick an allen key in the throttle stop on the left side TB and turn it in to get the idle up to an acceptable level.

See my post at the end of this thread for some rear wheel bearing info: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=2429&hl= LF usually means left front so maybe Dave thought you wanted front wheel bearing info.

Congrat's on the new bike! Once you have the bolt out the weight should come off. The only thing holding it on at that point is probably corrosion . Be aware that once the weight is off there's a little dowel pin under it that can fall out and disappear if you're not careful. Tapping on the bolt might help, but don't hit it too hard or you'll bend the little dowel pin.

I don't know what the standard settings are supposed to be but I've always had good luck starting out with the compression damping adjuster all the way out (zero damping) as Skeeve suggested, and the rebound damping set to it's middle position. I make 4 click adjustments in either direction from there to get a feel for how much it effects the ride, then go to 2 click adjustments. FWIW on my '02 Marz fork with my firmer than stock aftermarket springs I'm currently running 17 clicks out on compression and 12 clicks out rebound.

Did you remove the little rubber plug and put an allen wrench into the right side of the axle?

Welcome Brad! The stock rear tire size for the '02 is 180/55. I like the quicker turn in that the 170/60 size brings, as do some others here, but YMMV. Lots of folks here have been very happy with sport touring type tires, but they aren't optimum if you do many track days. Metzeler Z6's seem pretty popular here. I got about 8k miles on my last set. My only real complaint with them was it's hard to tell exactly how much rubber is left on the rear because the tread pattern is slick in the middle. Diablo Stradas and Conti Road Attacks get good reviews here too. I just installed a set of Conti's a few weeks ago, they seem good, but if I had it to do over I think I would have given the new Dunlop Roadsmarts a try. They are supposed to be a longer lasting tire than those previously mentioned, and I believe they just won a sport-touring shootout at some magazine recently so IMO they should be sticky enough for most of us who don't drag pegs on a regular basis. Good luck with the LeMans deal

Sorry to hear that but glad you're OK. Joe Camarda mentioned that he has Coppa body parts for sale in his ad in the classifieds. Did the risers actually break? If not maybe just the mounting hardware needs replacement?

Nice job Steve! Looks like you dove right into what had to be a PITA job. Too bad your pictures are so small. It would help the next guy who faces this a lot if you could put them up at photobucket or some other hosting site then link them in your post. edit: Nice job

Here's a V7 Classic "first ride". The reviewer seemed to really like it! http://www.motorcycledaily.com/30june08_20...g_v7classic.htm I like it much better than the Nevada and Breva on which it is based.

You need to check the yellow wires from your alternator to see if it's working. Its a simple check with a a volt meter. Use the search function here to find out what the alternator output should be. If the alternator is OK you probably need a new regulator. The stock Ducati regulators aren't real reliable. I think mine went out at 13k miles. I found all the info on diagnosing and troubleshooting the electrical system that I needed using the searh feature on this forum. I wish I bookmarked those threads now... edit: here's a couple that might help http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=AC+volts http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...l=battery+light

I think you need to charge the battery up to near 12.5 volts, start the bike and put a volt meter on the battery to see if it's charging. I don't know what the charge rate is but it's been posted many times before. Above 13.5v at 2000rpm maybe? If the bike is charging your battery is probably be bad. Pull it out and bring it to an auto parts store that will test it for free. If it's not charging you need to check the 3 yellow wires from alternator. Again, the expected output has been posted here before. Remember that the alternator output is AC, not DC when you test. If the alternator is working correctly chances are your regulator died. Replacement regulators are available for about $130 from Euro Moto Electric on their website or on ebay.

My stock rear wheel bearings were both SKF brand. 6204-2RSH on the brake side, and 6204-2RSH/C3 on the drive side. I replaced them both with /C3 SKF bearings (made in Argentina) from Mcmaster-Carr. Part number 6661K105. In my experience Mcmaster ships almost instantly and has very good prices and shipping rates. They also carry a grease gun fitting that will reach the elusive front Ujoint zerk; part number 1090K47. If you want to make your bearing replacement go easier consider something like this: http://www.pitposse.com/whbereset.html. Here's a review: http://www.4strokes.com/reviews/pitposse/wbremover/ .

Assuming your TB's are balanced, valve lash is in spec, and TPS is set correctly, my only thought is you might be a little lean with the non-stock crossover. I suppose you could tweak the TPS a bit (15mV?) to richen it up abit across the board. If you don't like the result set it back to where it was.

Hi Roger, This is a V11 site so it's probably not your best source for Norge knowledge. There's a Breva and Norge forum at http://forum.guzzitech.com/ , an all Guzzi forum at http://www.wildguzzi.com/forum/ , and a So-Cal specific forum that's somehow connected with Guzzitech. That said, feel free to hang around

Wheelsucker, Was sorting your bike out just a matter of getting the right map for your configuration loaded? You don't sound like you're in the mood to trade it in anymore

Here's a vendor that sells pod filters with integrated velocity stacks for the V11. I don't have them so I can't comment on fit or performance. http://www.sportcyclepacific.com/featureditems.htm Ferank, that's a beautiful low mileage Sport you have there. If you don't mind my asking, why are you selling it? Did you decide you need something faster?

If the left cylinder is definitely not firing the first thing I'd do is put in a new spark plug. Check for spark before screwing it in. edit: The next thing I'd do is look to see if the throttle body came loose from the intake boot and/or see if the boot is torn.

Glad to help.

Go Jaap! That looks like a lot of fun. There were some very cool vintage machines at that race. dhansen, You need to go pocket bike racing! http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=xP_t5bF0k4o

Go Sean! I hope he budgeted for a new back tire. That Metz doesn't look like it will survive a trip to California and back.

Very sorry to hear of your accident Dimitris but the important thing is you're not hurt. Do you have insurance that covers the repair or replacement of your bike?

My Check your battery and charging system (I think > 13 or so volts when running) and make sure the battery terminals are tight. Next step is relays, then fuel fiter or pump. I betting Al is right and you have a flaky relay.

I don't know where to buy one, but any decent sheet metal shop should be able to make one up quite easily.