Tom M

Another Stelvio review: http://www.motorcycle.com/manufacturer/200...view-79976.html Not that there's anything wrong with the Stelvio or Griso, but Guzzi needs to put this motor in a sporty bike! With top shelf suspension!

Going from memory that looks correct to me Michael. Glad to see you're about to get back on the road I can't take credit for finding that grease gun tip that works on the front ujoint, I just repeated the info that I had saved a while back after searching the forum. You owe the originator of that info a beer, but I'll take one anyway

There's a trick to get the tank off without scratching up the airbox that someone here clued me in on a while back. After you disconnect the fuel lines and pull the bolt at the back of the tank, lift the back of the tank up and slide it back as far as you can, then lift the front of the tank so it clears the mounting bumpers, slide the tank forward, pivot it up to remove the connections underneath, then lift it off the bike. Tank removal thread in the how to section: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...332&hl=tank

Yup you need to pull the circlip. As was mentioned in another thread you did not have to remove the cush drive plate, but since you did you should consider removing half the rubbers and maybe even drilling the remaining ones. I think both Pete Roper and Greg Field recommended this in the past. I did it and I think it does really help smooth out the shifting. Wait a minute...I saved the link somewhere...here it is! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11820

Great pictures! It looks like you all had an excellent time. I wish I was on your side of the pond for that. Oh, and happy birthday Jaap!

While your bike may run OK without a PCIII, it will be pretty lean with no airbox lid, no stock crossover, and better-than-stock flowing exhaust. You could tweak the TPS to richen it up a bit, but I think the PCIII is a better fix.

Yup, air gap is set with springs and spacers out and damper rod in. I have the same forks as you and I found a 100mm air gap was a little small for me after my spring swap. I took a little oil out of each leg to get more usable travel. Since it's easier to add oil than to remove it you might want to start with a 110mm air gap then add some if the fork bottoms too often.

Thanks for the tip. Any comments on how they fit? I'm not in the market but a buddy of mine might be. I found my Shoei RF1000 fits my noggin very much like my HJC did, whereas a lot of other popular helmets were uncomfortable. Can you compare Caberg fit to any other popular helmets?

Sean, If you turn any of those ECUs over they will look the same as the one in Ferank's picture. They mount with the heatsink fins facing down.

Aaaagh! The chinese spammers have discovered our puny little corner of the internet. When will Jaap be back to save us?

So you're keeping it to annoy the old folks?! Good stuff Martin. Glad to see you're sticking with Guzzi.

...which is why we are eagerly awaiting the V12 (V14?) 8 valve Lemans!

Brent, Like I said spin the pipe while squeezing the handle. I did try just squeezing with both hands without spinning and managed a cut, but that was way too much work. Ratch, It will square itself but you have to be careful or it can screw itself down the pipe. I cleaned up the edges with a half round file because it will leave a little burr, but not nearly as much as the saw did.

I'd like a set too. Since they don't seem to exist I bought a 4' long piece of PVC pipe (1" ID?) and cut new spacers. I have a radial arm saw to cut the pipe but I found a tool like this made a cleaner cut if you spin the pipe while squeezing the handle.

I guess you stripped one or more of the button head screws on the cush drive cover? I was lucky, all of mine came out no problem. I hope you're not using the notoriously undersized Craftsman allen sockets! I believe Greg F posted something about removing those screws if you strip one, you might want to search for his advice. It might have been suggested that you try pounding a torx driver into the hole. If that doesn't work I'd drill the head(s) off, remove the plate, then grab the remaining stub with vice grips. I've read that drilling the head with a left handed drill bit will often back the screw right out, but I haven't actually done this. For broken screw extractors I've only used old fashioned EZ-outs.

I've had cases welded before too. It's certainly worth a try before springing for a new part.

That's the base for the Moto Guzzi tank bag.

FYI the bolt that's missing is not a standard hardware store type bolt. It has a domed head so it doesn't fold the plastic plunger tip of the switch over. A smooth topped hex bolt might work there, but the Guzzi part definitely won't damage the switch as long as it's adjusted correctly. (Mine wasn't and it damaged the switch )

I used rubber stoppers from the local hardware store, but like I said I'd just drill the stockers if I was doing it again. The mounting bracket for the cluster is not tapped so you'll need washers and nuts below it. FWIW I think it's important to use rubber washers between the bottom of the bracket and the nut/steel washer for vibration damping.

I think it takes a while for the bearing to disintegrate to the level that yours did. If you check the wheel bearings every time you install new tires, assuming you pull the wheels yourself, you might catch this problem before it gets too bad. Just stick your finger in the bearing and rotate it. If you feel any roughness or notchiness (is that a word?) the bearing should be replaced. A good shop will typically check for this when they install new tires.

The factory mounts for the instrument cluster will eventually fail. I epoxied mine a few times before giving up on them. I cut some rubber plugs to the same length as the stock mounts, drilled through them, ran longer screws through the assembly, and used rubber and steel washers under the nuts on the bottom of the mounting bracket. Did that make sense? If I was to do it again I'd just remove the metal parts from the stock rubber mounts, drill through them, then attach them the same way.

They were on the bike when I bought it. They came with the MG Ti exhaust kit that the previous owner installed.

Congrat's on the beautiful new LeMans! Now take some more pictures and post them HERE

Packs of 10? I think you ordered the wrong part. Eeek! Hope I didn't steer you wrong there! Part # 1090K47 is the grease gun tip that I thought I recommended, $13.15 each, at Mcmaster Carr. I apologize if I screwed up the part number. http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage...MMainWidth=1068

That's terrible news Pierre! My sincerest condolences to you and all who knew him. I will certainly miss his posts here. I'd be happy to contribute towards some flowers or to help his family if appropriate. If any of you SoCal guys get a donation fund going please post the information somewhere on this site. Godspeed John-Mark.