Tom M

Vlad, I can't give you pics of the head-to-fairing brackets (12 & 13) without pulling the fairing off. I think your brackets are OK as long as the hole that receives the fairing mounting screw is centered between the two holes that attach the bracket to the head. If not then you might have 2 lefts or 2 rights. I used the locating pins for the controls on both sides and didn't elongate any holes. Remember my '02 probably has different controls than yours though. I think I'd remove the pin before I dragged the hole in an aluminum handlebar if I was going to change the control location. Antonio, Sorry to hear that you crashed! I hope you're OK. Will insurance cover your bike damages? I just ran outside and snapped a few pics. Pretty lousy quality because of the direct sun but you can get a good idea of how the Ballabio bars fit. I also added Buell pegs and MG luggage rack brackets since last year. I won't mount the rack until I need it.

Here's the screw that runs through the fairing scoop. Here's how I routed cables. I have a radial MC with dual lines so that won't help you with your brake hose. Here's lock to lock pics that show how tight the controls are to the fairing. BTW, those are the extended Buell mirrors. Hope this helps, Tom

Bleed your clutch and bleed/clean the rear brake caliper.

Nice photochop BFG!

Hi FalcoLion. Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I have Ballabio bars and risers on my LeMans now. I'll see if I can take some pics sometime soon. They do fit in the fairing if you roll them back just a little. I do have my forks raised through the triple clamps about 10mm which probably helps the new bars clear the fairing. I did that to help turn-in after I installed heavier fork springs last year. I can't help you on the Instrument cluster. From memory (sometimes shaky) I believe the screw that runs through the air scoop to the frame is a stainless steel socket head cap screw. It's head is a little shallower than standard. The screw that holds the fairing to the frame in front of the turn signal is a black round head socket screw. Buell has LeMans fairing mirrors in both stock and extended lengths. You will only see your arms with the stockers and the wide bars so you have to get the extended mirrors. I have the extended ones, they were GREAT with the clipons, they aren't as nice with the wider bars. See here for part numbers: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...07&hl=Buell

Do you guys have any problem with Mobil1 Vtwin 20-50? It's SG rated and still has ZDDP. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS...rcycle_Oils.asp

If silicone is lighter than water that girl will never drown Here's one I just stumbled across while googling for something completely unrelated to hooters!

Maybe this is old news, but there's a LeMans in the gallery section here with an under-tranny exhaust that's similar to the Quat-D. I don't know what it is or how well it works, you'd have to check with the owner on that. See http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=si&img=487 With the rear fender gone, the passenger pegs & brackets gone, and no exhaust cans, I think this is the cleanest rear end that I've seen on a V11, besides the March bike-of-the-month Monza kit.

If it's cutting out like you hit the kill switch then coming right back check your battery connections.

If anyone has a Moto Guzzi tail rack bag that they'd like to sell, please send me a PM. Thanks.

"I bought a new truck" There's your problem, unless you bought a really specialized truck that you use for work. Buying a new vehicle is a lousy way to get out of debt. With gas approaching $4 a gallon low mileage used trucks are for sale all over place around here. The owners can't get rid them. Sorry for preaching a bit there... I'm with Rocker59 on the trade thing. I wouldn't buy a bike that didn't have the seller's name on the title. If you do get the bonnie please let us know how you like it compared to your V11. On the topic of trucks: Toyota is doing a silent recall on 95 - 2000 Tacomas due to frame rot. If the owner has rust perforations on the frame they are giving them a free loaner vehicle and buying the trucks back for 100% blue book value - excellent condition. I know 4 people who did this in the last month. A friend at work just got $13,500 for a '99 with over 200,000 miles on it, and it wasn't in great shape. He feels like he hit the lottery.

Intake boots can be cracked on the outside but OK on the inside. It's a good idea to change them if they are really ratty looking though. Speaking of rodents, don't forget to check the airbox for a mouse nest. That's a pretty common cause for poor running when a bike comes out of storage.

Welcome Matt! Sorry to hear of your troubles with the Sport, but with some mechanical background you should be able to sort it out yourself. The first thing you need to do is get your battery tested. If it's stock it's probably marginal at best by now. A favorite replacement on this site is the Hawker Odyssey P545. There's a mail order source with good pricing that I can't recall right now. Matbe someone else will chime in. After getting the battery sorted you might want to replace all of your relays so you know they are good. One source for reliable relays is Dan Prunuske. You can get a full set from him for about $15 last time I checked. See http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm . A member here, Ryland 3210, has found a relay that's a higher spec than what Dan sells. See the following thread for info: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=relay&st=0 Regardless of which relay you choose, make sure the sockets the relays plug into are clean and tight. Assuming the air filter isn't blocked the crapping out above 5k sounds like a fuel problem, but you really need to sort the electrics first then see what happens. Good luck and let us know how you make out. edit: looks like a few others replied while I was typing! All good responses

IIRC = If I recall correctly. My bike had 2 slightly different bearings in the rear wheel. I replaced them with the same bearing just like you are doing.

It sounds like the bearing shield was mangled. I don't think my bearings had a shield, just a rubber seal? Anyway, I used the same bearings on both sides. IIRC my bike had 6204-2RSH/C3 on the drive side and a 6204-2RSH (no C3) on the other side. The only difference is the C3 has slightly more internal clearance. I also ordered some .006 thick shims in case my center spacer wasn't long enough. I have extras. Let me know if you want a couple.

Have you checked your connections on the battery and the hot lead on the starter yet? Any of those being just a little bit loose will prevent the starter from turning over. I had the "press the starter button, hear the starter engage, no turn over, hit it again and it starts" symptom a while back. I put another 1/4 turn on the starter hot lead nut and the problem went away.

I got the rear wheel bearings from McMaster-Carr. Part number 6661K105. They are SKF 6204-2RSH/C3 GJM (made in Argentina). $10.85 ea. I'm sure you can find C clips there too, along with any other harware you might need. They also have a grease gun fitting that will reach the front U joint if you need one. Part number is 109K47. Shipping is cheap and nearly instant as far as I can tell If you haven't bled the clutch in a while it's a lot easier when the rear wheel is out.

There might be a non-Guzzi source for MGS body parts. Gyles and Guzzbun had molds of the MGS bodywork made and popped out a new set before they entered Guzzbun's MGS-01 in the Thunderbike series. Guzzbun said now that the molds are done fiberglass reproductions can be made, possibly for $1200. The thread is here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=12978&hl=

Check the connections between the voltage reg and the alternator, especially the yellow wires. Any corrosion there will cause charging problems. My bike stopped charging last year and I found all the trouble shooting information that I needed using the search feature here. No schematics needed. My problem ended up being a dead voltage regulator. I got the OEM replacement from EME for $130 and was back on the road within days. There's tons of good info on this site, you just need to take the time to find it.

available here: http://www.mgcycle.com/electrical.html#Odds

Thanks biesel. I hope they sell a bunch of them. The photos are huge. Being so big it's easy to spot things in the picture that would probably go unnoticed otherwise. Like a little rust on a brand new bike

The MRA is available here too: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/1862/467/

I checked my plugs and they look good. The bike runs good too. I pulled the throttle link, verified the high idle cam wasn't touching, and checked my baseline TPS reading. Drum roll please... 250mV A full 100 mV over the factory spec! I don't care what the manual says, this flat out works on my bike. Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread, to Dave & Ryland who took the time to put the instructions together, because without them I likely never would have got into this, and especially to Micha for coming up with this shortcut. I owe you all a beer

I like this better than anything else Harley has to offer. Figures that it's a Euro only model Check out the video at the link below. http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2008/04/...avidson-xr1200/

Me three!