Tom M

Now that you posted this you have to let us know what happened! What part failed?

If your kill switch is in the RUN position and the key is on you should be able to get a TPS reading. If not your probes aren't making contact, assuming the bike still runs. I'm one of the guys who had better luck with the "Micha method" posted in this thread. Give it a try and report back with any problems. Here are the steps that Mr Bean posted with a couple edits by me: Step one - Set your valves to world settings Step two - Set your bleed screws to open 1 full turn Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm) Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (532mV) Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This must be done with an AXEONE or VDST software, one of which your dealer should have. Good luck.

I sanded, primed and painted mine with "wheel paint" from a local auto parts store. Looks like new.

Dave, maybe you could mention the Micha method at the end of the pinned instructions for bikes like mine that can't be tuned using your instructions? I'll try to check my TPS with linkage disconnected some time soon and post the result. I haven't been to a Guzzi dealer to verify that the ECU trim is set to zero. Not sure if I will bother since it's running pretty good. Mark, 3.6 degrees is 532mV according to the chart here.

OK. I just retuned using the Micha method that Mr Bean described. The bike runs smoooth, no more coughing at low throttle. It feels richer, maybe doesn't pull quite as hard as before, but that's just a quick impression after a short night ride. I'm going to ride it like this for a while and check the plugs. They only have a 300 or so miles on them, were very clean but not white before retuning tonight. I might have been running lean. I'll be interested to see if they read rich or spot on in a few days. Dave, I checked the 150mV setting before retuning. It still read 150 with everything backed off, but I found that if I pushed on the throttle linkage I could knock it down another 18mV to 132, and it would stay there when I took my finger away. If I moved it and let the spring return it it went back to 150 again. I also checked full throttle with engine off, saw 4.78V. After the reset with Micha method (532mV at 1100-1150 rpm idle) I saw 4.82V WFO with engine off.

I do have a PCIII.

I bet a decent welding shop could fabricate a hitch if you could get pictures of a V11 hitch form someone.

Greg, Do you know if he's uses this exact method on the pre-04 bikes with no front crossover? PS I am not an amateur, I'm more like a gorilla with a screwdriver.

Thanks for the input guys. Randy, is your step 6 "ensure idle trim is set to zero" referring to the the ECU or a Power Commander? I verified the PCIII saw closed throttle as 0%, don't have the capability to check the ECU. Dave, I'm pretty sure I had the right side stop screw all the way out and no high idle cam contact when I reset the TPS, but I'll check it again. I think the 0 degree TPS reading was around 190mV before I reset to 150. I also think my idle TPS was around 490mV (key on, engine off) before I started messing with it. I didn't check the wide open throttle setting, will do that when I get back at it. Also, I get higher TPS readings with the engine running than when it's off. Are the values in the how-to article taken with the engine running or off? You should know that I'm running the stock ECU with the factory Ti pipes, not the "race" ECU. Ernst, I have a 2002 which didn't have the crossover at the alternator here in the US, so I think my bike falls into the older model category. I have both the older MG shop manual and the updated one. There's no section for setting the idle/TPS in the older manual that I have, but the newer one for a catylized engine says to set the throttle plate to 3.8 +/-.1 degrees at idle, which is .553mV on the chart in the how-to article here. Where did you see the 460mV figure? What I'm really unclear on is whether the ECU equates a completely closed throttle plate to 150mV, or if it equates idle with 3.x degree throttle opening/525mV. Getting both settings correct would be great but I can't do it on my bike. The bike does run well now except for the occasional low throttle cough. Thanks again and please keep the suggestions coming.

Who's looking for a free cat?

A couple questions: Should I care that my TPS is around 440mV when idling about 1150rpm with air bypass screws about 1/2 turn out or less? Could "coughing" between 3k and 4krpm be due to air bleeds that are less than 1/2 turn open, or is this purely a TB balance issue? Background: Last month I adjusted my valve lash to .006/.008" and reset the TPS base voltage at 150mV with the linkage disconnected and the right side idle stop backed all the way off. With the air bleeds completely closed and the idle TPS voltage to set to 520mV idle rpm is way too high. I tried running with the bypass screws closed and the idle backed down to ~1150 rpm/480mV, got lots of low throttle coughing. Since opening the bypass screws a bit and backing down the idle stop to 1100rpm/440mV I'm still getting an occasional cough at low throttle openings between 3k and 4k rpm, but otherwise the bike seems to be running well. I've tried to balance the TBs to a happy medium between perfect balance at idle and perfect balance at 3000rpm. Also tried some on-road balance adjustment as Ouiji has done but still can't get rid of the occasional cough. I know I could open the air bleeds more, but then I'll have to back off the idle stop even more dropping my TPS setting even farther away from the 520mV target. No apparent air leaks and the bike did not have this cough before I did my winter "tune up" . Oh yeah, plugs are new. Any suggestions on improvements from here are welcome. edit: I originally posted valves set to .004/.006, I actually set them to .006/.008.

I assume the 2 springs are there in case one of them breaks. I doubt one would break while you are actually riding, but if it did as you were entering a left corner things could get ugly.

Great pictures! Cool maps too

Both of our cars get at least 2 to 3 mpg less in the winter than the summer. I think it's due to the winter gas formulation we get here in MA combined with the longer warmup time for the engine. FWIW the enginerd in the office next to me says the engine works harder pushing the car through the denser winter air. I don't know about that My Guzzi lives in my basement during the winter, mostly in some state of disassembly, so I can't comment on winter's effect on Guzzi mileage.

That Guzzi look...

I think the unplugged connector in the first picture might be fuel level sender for the low fuel light. Does your low fuel light work?

Excellent! Congratulations Gyles! Now we need pictures

Here's a review on the Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 cartridge that I believe a few members here have installed in their 'zokes. http://www.2wf.com/content/view/1404/45/ The reviewer installed them in a GSXR1000 race bike and didn't feel they worked much better than stock until he was really pushing it on a race track. Since the GSXR doesn't have Marzocchi forks the review isn't worth much to us other than pointing out that the cartridges do allow much better adjustability than stock GSXR forks (which are likely better than our 'zokes), and each of those adjustments could be felt by the reviewer. As others have said, the 'zoke can be made much better than stock for not much money, but they won't be a good as well set up Ohlins. Whether or not "better than stock" is good enough for you is a personal decision. FWIW I installed new springs, set the sag, changed the fluid, and played with different the air gaps on my Marzocchi. It's far better than stock, but I think there's still plenty of room for improvement. It's much better on big hits but a little harsh on smaller bumps like bridge expansion joints on the highway. I went to lighter oil in the compression leg this winter, but haven't had the bike out yet to tell if that made much of a difference. (Been waiting for parts and better weather. Better weather arrived this week, parts due in today )

Mine face "backwards" from the factory. They only do that on the fast ones...

Welcome and congrats to both of you on your new Guzzis. Nathan, WOW. Someone put some serious time and money into that bike. The 2000 V11's came with a silver engine and drivetrain so someone pulled that bike completely apart to paint it. They even repainted the passenger footpeg mounts. It looks like they did a great job and you now have a very unique V11 Sport. The Penske shock and adjustable bars are definite upgrades from stock too. FYI here's a stock 2000 (except exhaust) next to yours:

I'd be more worried about fragging a drivetrain that wasn't designed for that much power, and the likely increased engine maintenance. The Bigbore that Guareschi races probably gets rebuilt on a regular basis.

You're right, it does face backwards! My bad

Your approach to the bearing problem is all wrong Dan. You don't need new bearings, you need an Ohlins fork!

I use Cortech Sport soft bags with my high mounted pipes. As Rocker said, you can install the stock passenger footpeg brackets and lower your exhaust if you want to use the factory bags/frame or hard bags. Pics of my bike with the bags mounted, and some other options are here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=11447&hl= Another setup that won't interfere with your high pipes is Ventura: http://www.ventura-bike.com/fitments.aspx?modelid=538

On its side with the terminals facing forward, just like the factory battery shown in your owners manual.