Tom M

I removed my fairing when I did my forks, it's a 5 minute job now that I know what to do. I don't know if you can get to all of the triple clamp pinch bolts without removing the fairing, but if you can then you should be able to remove the forks with the fairing in place. To remove the fairing all you need to do is: - disconnect the turn signals - remove the 2 mirrors (4 acorn nuts) - remove the 2 fairing screws above the rocker covers - remove the 2 fairing screws next to the turn signals - remove the 2 lower air scoop screws You can see which screws to remove in the diagram on page E7 in the parts manual. You can see and download the parts manual from MPH Cycles HERE

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=big+bore

It looks like you had a great ride there John! Thanks for posting those pictures and descriptions. Damn that makes me miss trail riding. I bet those steep rocky climbs and slippery decents helped you appreciate your relatively lightweight Highland and your buddies thumpers. I can't imagine riding trails like that on on one of those big dual sport bikes like the BMW GS or the soon to be released Stelvio. Good luck dragging one of those out of a mud bog. I take it the land owners in your area are OK with dirt bikes traversing their property? That used to be the case where I live but sadly it is no more. All my old riding areas have been developed or are posted no trespassing or no vehicles nowadays. I'm a little too old to be getting chased around by the police. My friends who still ride and race pay $25 a day to ride on a motocross track 25 miles away. Yuck.

Either an aftermarket crossover or better flowing cans will give you more power and more noise. Both together is will give you even more of each, but you should probably add a PCIII or get your ECU remapped at that point to get the most power out of your changes.

That's pretty cool Joe. Definitely unique. I like the orange, love the bags, but the red valve covers and pork chops don't go well with the orange to my eye.

I found that vendor on a Kawasaki forum while looking for spring sources for a buddy's bike. FWIW one of the forum members actually worked for Sonic, and all of the members who bought from him and posted to that thread were happy with their purchase. That said, if I was in the market for V11 springs I'd ask them for their spring OD and length to see how close they are to the stock dimensions, and ask if their springs are shot peened since the other aftermarket spring vendors always tout this feature ( ). FYI stock spring length is 295mm/11.61", OD is 30mm/1.18".

Ratchet, I was just pointing out that the quote in your post from the 1995 SR article is ass-backwards and probably a misprint because I know Thede knows what he's talking about. If you click the link to Sport Rider in my post above you will see that the quote at the bottom of my post is attributed to Paul Thede from Race Tech, and it directly contradicts the quote in your post. Your quote: "More sag on the front or less sag on the rear will make the bike turn more slowly." My quote: "More sag on the front or less sag on the rear will make the bike turn more quickly.

That has to be a misprint. I thought that adding more sag in the front is like sliding your forks up through the triple clamps, it reduces rake and makes steering quicker, right? The same goes for reducing rear sag, you're effectively raising the rear which should make the bike steer quicker. From another article in Sportrider magazine ( http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_9508_tech/index.html ) "Using different sag front and rear will have a huge effect on steering characteristics. More sag on the front or less sag on the rear will make the bike turn more quickly. Less sag on the front or more sag on the rear will make the bike turn more slowly."

I know nothing about this vendor or their products but the price is nice http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/index....35a46880b121ae7

If tightening it doesn't stop the leak you'll need to seal or replace the gasket or o-ring (I don't remember which it has). I had to replace my whole switch when it stopped working and I think it was about $45. Silicone gasket sealer is lot cheaper than a new switch

Here's an HID kit that works on other bikes but I don't know how well it would work on a Guzzi. http://www.xenonrider.com/products/h4_bixenon_hid_kits.shtml

Assuming the fuse is still OK and you've cycled the kill switch a few times, I'd swap relays under the seat. If that doesn't fix it I'd check the kickstand switch and it's connections under the tank, then check the clutch switch and the kill switch for proper operation. If swapping relays does fix your problem I'd advise you to order a full new set here: http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm . Lots of board members have cured electrical problems by replacing the stock ones with these.

When my regulator quit it stopped charging completely. I got the replacement from Euro Motoelectrics. They were excellent to deal with.

The relay harness attaches to the headlight itself, not the connector in the back of the headlight shell. Once you open the headlight shell it will become apparent.

I bought the fairing mount single headlight relay kit (see below). Installation was easy except that I had to splice in a piece of wire for the little running light inside the headlight bucket. The female connector attaches to headlight, the male connector plugs into the wiring harness, and power and ground wires run back to the battery.

As for the relays, I'm just echoing the standard response here for years which is get the ones from Dan and your relay problems will end. I replaced all of mine even though I didn't have any symptoms just because it's so cheap. There's a significant voltage drop at the headlight with the stock Guzzi wiring. See Dave's pictures in this thread to see the difference in light output after upgrading the wiring. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=9673&st=0 The Eastern Beaver harness is pretty much plug and play. I say pretty much because I did have to extend 1 wire that goes to the little running lamp inside the headlight bucket. I'm happy with the result.

Hi John, Here's the cure for your relay woes: http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm . Replace them all for under $15 and carry an old one for a spare. Here's a source for headlight relay kits: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Home/Main/Pro...ts/h4_kits.html They are a little pricy compared to buying the individual components but I like one stop shopping. Also note they have some "old model" kits on their clearance page for less money. I installed their fairing mount kit in my LeMans last year and haven't had any problems with it. The LM has a tight headlight bucket so I mounted the relays to the fairing frame. I'm not sure which kit would work best on your Ballabio. Re: Ducati GT1000. Nice bike, but I like my Guzzi better. I took a spin on a Sport 1000, which is quite similar to the GT, at Wagners a while back. Here are my impressions: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=11995&hl=

I warmed the bellmouths up with a heat gun and flared them to 50mm with a beer bottle, per this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=8924&st=30

Welcome Lavrgs! You have the stock Sachs-Boge shock. According to my shop manual it has 2 damping adjusters, one on the reservoir for compression and one above the lower shock eye for rebound. The manual says it should have 43 clicks available from completely closed for compression and 34 available for rebound. It also says the factory settings are rebound = 20 clicks, compression = 10, spring preload = 13mm. I don't know if those numbers refer to clicks from completely closed or completely open. I believe clicks from closed is the norm but you never know with Guzzi My bike came with an Ohlins shock on it so I'm afraid I can't help you with any setup tips. I'm sure a search will turn up some tuning info for you if no one else chimes in.

Hi John, We met at IMOC last year. I'm certainly no ace mechanic but I've done a bit of wrenching on my V11 without screwing it up (yet), but I haven't done the TB balance yet. I'd be happy to help where I can. I'm about a half hour away from Worcester. Feel free to give me a shout if you want a hand with anything.

Here's a Goodwood Spitfire blasting over a Speed TV guy: http://alexisparkinn.com/photo...s.wmv I thought it was hilarious! FYI the guy is Alain de Cadenet .

Nice job Wick! One question though, why did you bother adding clipons with risers instead of just changing to a different tubular bar with the rise/sweep/width that you prefer? That's a beautiful bike. Hubba hubba.

Phil A, would you mind sharing the length and width of your teardrop cutouts?

Here's the perfect place for Guzzi fans who just can't seem to keep their politics to themselves on this board (take a bow Ratchet): http://illuminatiguzzisti.forumcircle.com/ There seem to be plenty of sharp guys over there who are more than willing to debate global warming, politics, or whatever else Rush Limbaugh may have you fired up about. I think they even discuss Guzzis on occasion Keep up the good work Jaap!

There's a nice LeMans on there now with color matched hard bags, exhaust & intake mods, PCIII and other stuff, with a very reasonable buy-it-now price. (I know nothing about the bike or owner) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-Moto-G...1QQcmdZViewItem