Tom M

It just so happens that my neutral light stopped working yesterday. After grounding the sender wire and seeing the light work I pulled the switch. The plunger was free and working fine so I put an ohm meter on the contact nad on the body and pushed the plunger all the way in. No contact. I'm thinking this means that I have to replace the switch. Anybody have any other ideas on salvaging the one that I've got? PS I'm running Redline. It pained me to see dribbling out the hole when I pulled the switch

Thanks. Yes I did have the crossover coated. The PO had already done the header pipes and stock crossover so I had the FBF crossover done too.

1. Yes the FBF crossover will change the sound. It will be slightly louder, especially above 4k rpm, and will have more of a raspy note than with the stock crossover. 2. Yes there will be a gain if you add a PCIII to either combination. When I bought my bike it had the MG Ti exhaust & ECU, stock crossover, and PCIII with custom map. I have a before & after dyno chart showing the gains made with the PCIII from the previous owner. It helped the most with the midrange. I installed an FBF crossover last winter and drilled the airbox lid. The custom map for the Ti ecu was too lean after that so I switched back to the stock ECU with and downloaded a map for a similarly equipped bike from a fellow forum member. The bike runs great after a minor map tweak. See the fileshare section of this site for some maps you can download. They might get you close to optimum but your best bet is to get a custom map done once you're done making mods.

Cool find Biesel That bike certainly looks like it's for real. I really hope they don't stick with that full fairing. It hides what makes the Guzzi so visually unique, THE ENGINE. I much prefer the 1/2 fairing on the V11 LeMans to this. Other than the fairing I think it looks pretty good.

As much as I love your Nero and my LeMans Martin, I'm afraid I'd have to take the one on the left if given the choice, even if I wasn't touring Europe

Moto-Anachronism?

If you're not a geek stop reading this right now and go find a new thread! I think this is how I did my shaky calculations Skeeve... To get the c-c dimension add the space between coils to the wire dia. For the stock spring it's .29 + .187= .477" I calculated free coils as follows : total spring length minus 3 times the wire dia (assuming 3 non-active coils here, 1.5 to & 1.5 bottom) = 10.939" "active length". 10.939 active length divided by .477 (wire thickness plus coil spacing) = 22.933 active coils. I'm sure this isn't totally accurate but it should be in the ball park.

I trust Dan M won't mind... (from the post a pic no words thread) http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ost&id=6749

Click on the MPH Cycles icon in the site sponsors bar at the top of the page to see if they carry the Stucchi. While not a site sponsor I know that MG Cycle does: http://www.mgcycle.com/exhaust.html#Crossover I would guess that Greg at MI could get them too. If you go with the Ferracci and decide to have it welded you don't need to have it ceramic coated. I only had mine done because my headpipes were already coated. If anyone here is interested in getting their exhaust coated these guys charge $20 per foot and do a nice job with quick turnaround: http://www.headercoatings.com/

The folks at MCUSA apparently don't know a V11 from a Griso, nor can they read. http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/Article_Page...4749&Page=2 They should have shown the Zero if they wanted a nice Griso based custom. Their naked 1098 Duc rumor is interesting though...

Hi Dave, I've never seen that set of Quat-D cans before so I can't help you there, but aftermarket exhaust kits have been discussed here many many times. Here's just one of the threads (11 pages and counting): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=exhaust Here's a search with more: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ighlite=exhaust There was a group buy on M4 exhaust going on here recently, I don't know the current status but here's the thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=10319&st=0 Aftermarket exhaust pros: lighter than stock, flow better than stock (more power?), usually louder than stock, look cool and sound cool (subjective). Cons: lighten your wallet, maybe not as durable as stock, usually louder than stock. If installed with an aftermarket high flowing crossover you will need to address the fuel map by finding someone who can reflash your ECU or by adding a Power Commander or other aftermarket solution. Besides possibly interfering with luggage, high mount pipes will move your passenger pegs to an uncomfortable position or do away with them completely.

I'd say go ahead and richen up your map in the area where you're getting the stumble. That's the beauty of the Power Commander. Changing values in a map or pushing buttons on the Power Commander is a lot easier than pulling carbs and changing jets, needles, slides and float heights. If you plan on keeping the bike for years without any more engine changes I think your best fix may be to get a custom map done. I'm in a similar situation to you in that I changed my bike enough over the winter to require a new map so I'm using a downloaded one for now. On our first hot day here I found that I have a stumble when pulling away from a dead stop only when the bike is really hot. I noted the approximate rpm and throttle position where the stumble was occuring then edited the map in that area to richen it up a bit. I just did this last week and we haven't had hot enough weather since then to know if I fixed the problem yet. I did similar edits to my old custom map last year with good results so I expect that I'll get this problem sorted soon enough. FWIW I've looked at a few maps from different sources that are supposed to be for very similarly equipped V11's and saw that the maps can vary greatly. I'm using one for an '02 with pods and aftermarket crossover + cans and it is significantly LEANER than stock at certain rpm/throttle settings compared to other maps that I've seen for the same bike without pods. It seems to me that the map for the bike with opened up intake & exhaust should be RICHER in most areas, not leaner, but what do I know? I'll just tweak it until it feels right and check the plugs to make sure I didn't get too rich or lean. Hope this helps.

We need pictures!

I'm no expert but I think the TPS swap is a real good idea if only to eliminate it from the mix. A stumble when hot could indicate a lean condition. Are your intake boots in good shape and is your bike stock or modified?

That's the bike that I'd be on if I hadn't found a great deal on a LeMans first. I love the simplicity of the Guzzi air cooled twin but the extra power that the water cooled 'priller has would be fun. I think the Tuono would be a great choice too if you can stand looking at it. IMO they are fugly but cool.

This is terrible news but thank god it wasn't worse. I sincerely hope everyone heals up fine and insurance covers all the costs for everyone involved. Get well soon guys.

Nice dyno chart Jim! Ratchet, did you see the dyno chart in the "details" section of the bigbore.it website? The torque curve shows about 7.6 Kgm @ 2000 rpm which equals about 55 ft lbs if my math is right. Maybe the bigbore folks made that up but Dave didn't.

In the past I have edited my power commander maps on my laptop and downloaded them to the PCIII USB, and I'm about to do it again. Aaah, new age jetting is so clean and easy compared to pulling carbs! Anyway, I'm curious as to what exactly the numbers in the different cells are. I know they are variations from the base map in the factory ECU, but I'm wondering if a value of 10 means 10% richer than stock for that cell, or if the 10 is some other unit of measure. Does anybody here know for sure?

Have you checked your kill switch? The next thing I'd look at would be the kickstand safety switch.

The shifter link shaft is right hand threaded at both ends so it will not change the shifter height if you just loosen the locknuts and turn the shaft. You have to disconnect the end at the triangular plate that's attached to the shifter and turn the rod end that was connected to that plate clockwise a few turns or so to lower the shifter. Beware that going too far will allow your shifter to contact the pork chop. I wish Guzzi had used a right and left threaded link shaft so just turning the shaft would allow you to adjust shifter height without pulling one end. Not much room to work in there if you don't pull the starter. I didn't and now have the scratched up hands to prove it.

Motobits from Moto International or the kit from Ryland3210 shown HERE should help your knees out if the Buell peg solution isn't adequate.

GREAT trip report Doc!

I would say that the welds is fairly level with the surface of the tubes. It looks like a typical fillet weld that I see and specify here at work (I design electronic enclosures). Actually the FBF weld was a lot neater than some I see from our vendors! I could send you the 2288 x 1712 picture that would allow you to zoom way in on the weld if you are truly interested. I don't have any pictures of the crossover before adding the bracket, and no the tubes weren't purged before welding the brackets on. Why would you purge when the welds weren't supposed to penetrate through the tubes?

Slug, The welds on my FBF looked pretty good to me but I'm no expert. Here's a shot of mine after I had the brackets attached. Can you tell me if you see a problem with the FBF weld?