Tom M

Nice work Richard. Are you going to sell it after the restoration is complete?

Sounds like an air leak to me but I would think that the left plug would look lean not rich Have you checked your intake boot for cracks?

I run it year round and have seen no ill effects in weather from 40*F to over 100*.

Welcome to the flock zen kick! I don't think you could've gone wrong with any of your choices.

It's your bike, do what suits YOU and anyone who doesn't like it can pound sand! PS What's the toggle switch for?

I've never heard of anyone reflashing the ECU on this side of the pond. Power Commander tuning centers are all over the place around here though.

I don't mean to hijack this thread but do any of you MA/NH/CT guys know of a local shop that stocks AGV helmets? Eastern Cycle had a few but nothing in my size (XL?). I emailed AGV with this question months ago but never got a response. TIA

Another vote for a Cafe Sport here. Does MI allow test rides? Any chance of contacting the previous owners of the used bikes? If so maybe you can get some service records, ask about oil and fluid changes, and find out if the oil light ever came on. Between the two Cafe bikes I'd lean toward the cleaner one with the motobits controls and Ti exhaust. 9500 miles is just about broken in.

I finally got my bike out this past weekend and did some fiddling with ECUs and maps. Here's where I'm at... Ti ECU and old map: ran it for 20 or so miles, felt OK but was probably a bit lean with the new crossover and opened up airbox. Had exhaust popping when engine braking and still had some 5k rpm pinging as mentioned earlier. Stock ECU and Gh67 map: ran it for 100+ miles, felt pretty good. I think it's stronger in the low to midrange than the race ECU was but I think (could be wrong) that the race ECU pulled a little harder above 6k rpm. I could still provoke a bit of pinging near 5k rpm so my theory that the race ECU was causing it seems to be BS. I'll have to give the map that polebridge emailed to me a try later. Looks like cold rainy weather until next week. Side note: the bike definately got louder with the Ferracci crossover and airbox mods. I'm not sure if it got any faster though because I haven't ridden since November. Side note #2: I bought the cheaper Ferracci crossover instead of the Stucchi because I have a welding shop that could add a hanger/stiffener for me at minimal cost to hopefully prevent the cracking problem that others have had with the Ferracci. I had to make up a hanger bracket for the frame too as the stock one wouldn't fit with the Ferracci. Here's a few pics of what I had done before it went out for ceramic coating:

Nuevototem, You might try flipping your blue nuts over if you want them to screw further down the damper rods. I'm pretty sure that the blue nuts in my forks weren't threaded all the way through, they were counterbored on one end. I'm positive that the one in your picture is upside down from the way mine were oriented. Ouiji, Most of the suspension tuning stuff that I've read says to start with your compression damping all the way out, then add it as needed. I think these 'zokes seem to have a fair amount of comp damping even with the adjuster only 1 or 2 clicks in. I thought my forks were terrible when I first bought the bike, then I backed the comp adjuster out to about 5 clicks in from zero and they were much less wooden feeling. I just did 100+ miles yesterday on my newly resprung forks. Big difference from the stockers! Fork dive under braking is a thing of the past. I like it.

Has the Tuono owner noticed your repair yet? Thanks for the tip

Here's a blue one: Also HERE FWIW I think a matte gray color like the tank and seat cowl on the '02 LM would look good with the red frame if you want something a little different from the factory silver paint job.

There's a member here, Geruguzzi, who was also looking for a system that didn't scrape on the track a while back. He ran his V11 at Daytona this year and posted some pics of his bike with what looks like a custom system here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=115813 You might want to contact him to see where he got it if you're at all interested.

FWIW I tried to add a couple jam nuts to my damper rod so I could adjust preload without cutting new spacers and without changing the location of the blue nut. The damper rod is 12mm with a fine thread so I bought four M12 x 1.5 "fine thread" jam nuts. They didn't fit, the rod thread is finer than 1.5. It must be M12 x 1.25 or 1.0, which are both available from specialty hardware vendors but not at my local hardware stores. If I have to go back into the forks to adjust preload I'll verify the thread size and report back.

When I started this thread last October I fully intended to order some springs soon. I finally got around to it! Here you go Skeeve... Traxxion Dynamics 1.1Kg/mm straight-rate springs: wire dia = .195" = 5mm length = 10.68" = 271mm distance between coils = .330" = 8.4mm '02 LM stock straight-rate springs with 11k miles (40mm Marzocchi fork): wire dia = .187" = 4.75mm length = 11.5" = 292mm distance between coils = .290" = 7.36mm stock preload spacer = 4.75" = 120mm long, 1.38" = 35mm OD, 1.09" = 27.7mm ID By my (shaky) calculations the TD 1.1 Kg/mm springs are about 27% stiffer than stock so the stockers must be about .8Kg/mm. Spring calculator HERE TD recommended these springs for my weight. I suspect they might be too stiff based on what I've read here. If so they said they'll gladly do an exchange.

I tried a couple grades of scotchbrite on the back of the can and it looked good to me so I did the same on the front. It looks good in my basement, not perfect but definitely better than before. We'll see how it looks when I get it out in the sunlight. I'll eventually post a few pics. Thanks.

Thanks guys. I'll let you know how I make out.

Glad to hear that you're back on the road having fun! Change your oil in the fall, your motor will be happier.

They aren't polished, have a fine "brushed" finish. I definitely don't want to refinish the whole can, just want to make the marks less noticeable. If no one here has any experience with this I'll either a ) experiment on the back side or b ) ignore it!

Does anyone here know how to clean up scuffs or marks on the MG Ti cans? Scotchbrite? Steel wool? Here's why I'm asking... I just installed a new exhaust crossover and unlike the previous owner I fully seated the header pipes into the crossover (grease helps). This effectively moved my exhaust cans an inch or so towards the front of the bike so the exhaust can hanger clamps are farther up the cans than they used to be. This is good since they will support the cans better, but the clamps left marks on the cans at their old locations. I'd like to clean up the marks with something so they blend in a bit with the existing finish on the cans. Any suggestions?

Are you going for a dyno pull/remap too? Be sure to let us know how you make out. I'd also be real interested to know if you had any pinging with the stock pistons, and if it goes away with the MR's. Again,

Base gaskets? What are you up to there Dan? High compression pistons?

BIG DADDY recommends hose clamps on your oil filter too. http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/Big..._oil_change.htm

That's not going to happen since he has TWO hose clamps on his oil filter! Yellow?

FWIW a '75 Commando with 6 miles on it went for $25k recently according to this (scroll down to 3/12): http://www.cycleworld.com/article.asp?sect...p;page_number=3