Tom M

Yes if you include the needle bearing on the outside of the bevel box. The '02 and earlier front wheel for Marz forked bikes has two different bearings due to the stepped axle. The rear uses three. Two 6204-2RSH roller bearings plus the needle bearing on the outside of the bevel box. I don't have a number for the needle bearing because I haven't had to replace it.

On all V11s the left side rear wheel bearing that fails often is 6204-2RSH, 47mm dia x 14 wide x 20 bore For 2002 and earlier V11s with the stepped solid axle Marzocchis, the front wheel bearings are: 6205-2RS, 52mm dia x 15 wide x 25 bore 6304-2RS, 52mm dia x 15 wide x 20 bore

Hi Scud, The stock exhaust cans can't be mounted high because the pipes that connect the cans to the crossover are welded into the cans. If you rotate them upward the oval cans will end up at a strange angle. The connecting pipes in the Ti kit aren't welded to the cans so they can be rotated any way that you want, high or low. My exhaust pipes and crossover are clean because I had them ceramic coated. There are more pictures in the "Post a pic of your V11" thread if you're interested. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5556&page=36 Hi Leroysch, If you change crossovers or the mounting height of the Ti cans the mounting straps will end up in a slightly different spots, exposing marks where the mounting straps used to be. The good news is they can easily be blended into the can with a fine scotchbrite pad. I've run stock, FBF, Stucchi and Mistral crossovers with my Ti exhaust and unless you look really closely at the cans in the right light you can't see where the mounting straps have been before.

The MG Ti exhaust can be mounted high with the short passenger peg mounts, or low with the stock passenger peg mounts which will allow you to use the HB hard bags or the factory soft bags. I use Cortech soft bags without frames with the high mounts. Here's an old pic that will give you some idea of how they fit.

Here's a thread with the steering damper dimensions and Shindy part number. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14385&hl=shindy&do=findComment&comment=155021

Welcome Cobra23 and congrat's on your Cafe Sport. You can find the shop and parts manuals here: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_misc.html I haven't had the downshifting issue that you have but I tend to throttle blip and release the clutch lever on my downshifts. You probably need to let the clutch out at least a little bit after dropping a couple gears before downshifting again to keep the gearbox spinning. Sorry but I don't have any dealer recommendations.

Before tearing it all down you might want to try checking the vent to see if it's working. If it's clogged you could be building pressure when the tranny warms up so it could be forcing fluid past the weakest seal. I know it's a longshot but it's a lot easier than tearing the whole thing apart.

I think Lucky Phil had the best explanation but I'll throw in my 2 cents even though it may not be 100% correct. HP = rpm x torque/5252 Torque is the measured force, HP is calculated using the measured torque value and the 5252 constant. The m in rpm is time, so I think of HP as torque measured over time. Time is the RATE that Phil mentioned. Hey GM, I had a Maico 440 that was a great woods bike once I learned better throttle control. It sounds like your KTM was very similar. I used a buddy's '85 CR500 for a while too but it was too much of a beast in the tight woods. Like all 2 stroke big MXers you needed have your chin over the crossbar on both of them before you opened the throttle all the way or you'd flip over backwards. Damn those were fun! http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/2015/04/article/memorable-motorcycle-1980-maico-440-enduro/

If you replaced the spring and you're only getting two gears you probably didn't have the shifter fork pins and the shifter plate assembly lined up properly when you put it back together. I think that's the toughest part of the pawl spring replacement job. I suggest that you: - remove the shifter plate - put your shift lever on the shift shaft and shift it up to 6th gear, back down to first, then into neutral. You can watch the shift drum when you do this and figure out when it's in neutral. - move each of the four the shift forks to the exact center of their travel. Since there are two forks per shaft this means you need to push them together in the middle of the shaft then move each one half way back toward the outside. This will put the transmission into neutral. - re-install the shifter plate and give it a try.

I bought an ECU from the builder of that Pipeburn bike off of ebay a couple years ago to keep as a spare. The builder Alain said he didn't need it because he was converting his V11 to carbs. I believe he's a member of this forum although I don't think he's very active. He seemed like a real nice guy based on a few emails and the purchase was hassle free. I wonder how he's triggering the ignition on that bike?

When I pulled my heads off a few years back I discovered that there were no gaskets at all in there. Don't know if that was due to the previous owner or the factory, but I put new ones in when I put it back together. I only had the lean cough when the exhaust nuts got loose when there were no gaskets installed.

Walterg, Have you done the valve adjust/TPS adjust/TB sync that stewgnu suggested above? That should be your starting point before you mess with anything else. Also check for cracked intake boots and exhaust leaks, especially at the head and front crossover. They can cause the lean cough problem that you're having too.

That really sucks Bjorn. Have you verified that the gearbox vent is working? If it's clogged pressure could be be building in there and pushing oil past the seal. I can't imagine what else it could be assuming that the shop didn't muck something up.

Transmission and rod bolt recall notices are here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14680

I finally took some pictures of the Motobits foot controls with the standard non-pivoting pegs replaced with pivoting Rizoma pegs. Now I don't have to worry about snagging a peg when leaned way over.

I've had the low rpm cough problem a few times over the years. It was always corrected by making sure that the exhaust was tight at the head and doing a tuneup. I'm a fan of the "Micha Method" of tuning because it's simple and it works. My bike pulls cleanly from idle to redline, but I do have a PCIII so maybe that helps. The standard TPS adjusting instructions don't work on my bike. You might want to give this a try: The Micha Method... Step one - Set your valves to world settings (.15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust) Step two - Set your air bleed screws to open 1 full turn Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm) Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (530mV) Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This requires an AXEONE dealer tool, VDST, or GuzziDiag software.

Welcome David, It sounds like you've read the FAQ so you have some idea of the differences between various V11 models. They're all good bikes but each model year has a few quirks. The bubbling engine paint is the major one for the 02 LeMans. It's not a huge deal to correct but it's not a quick fix either. Unless you're way over or under average height you probably shouldn't be too concerned about the ergo's. The best advice that I've seen on the V11 ergos is ride the bike with the stock setup for at least three thousand miles before considering changing anything. I agree that mid $5k is high for a bone stock 02 LeMans. For about the same money you should be able to find an Ohlins equipped V11. For a few hundred more you could buy Lee's Rossa Corsa with Ohlins suspension, which will be quite a bit nicer that the marzocchi/sachs combo on the LeMans. See the link below. Lee has already corrected one of the two flaws with that generation of V11s; he replaced the header pipes with earlier ones that don't have the floppy front crossover. He has some really nice Ferracci exhaust cans on there too. The other flaw with that generation is the ITI speedometer and tach are not particularly long-lived. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19078 Good luck with your search!

Tom, how did you add folding pegs? I had a bushing machined to adapt a pair of Rizoma folding footpegs to the Motobits assembly. I attached the bushing drawing which has the Rizoma part number for the pivot assembly. I don't have a picture of the finished product but I could take one tonight if you want to see what they look like. PEG BUSHING.PDF

I'm a little over 6' tall too. I mounted Ballabio bars and risers on my '02 Lemans because an old shoulder injury gave me problems after about 3 hrs of riding with the stock clipons. If not for the shoulder problem I would have stuck with the clipons. I like the bars but I wish they were a little narrower. If I shortened them the controls would hit the fairing. Sitting up higher does make the fairing less effective too. I'm also running the Motobits foot controls and I really like them. The Motratech moved the controls too far forward for me. Like PDoz I didn't really like the non-folding pegs Motobits pegs so I added some. I added rubber shifter and brake pegs too. I haven't tried a different seat but I might do that some day.

Hi Stew, I'll be interested in what you think of the Avons, and what you think of the 180. I installed a 180 on the rear last year when I got a great deal on some Conti Road Attack 2 GTs because they didn't make that tire in a 170. I've been running a 170 rear for the last eight or nine years. I immediately regretted the slower turning 180 so I'll be going back to a 170 the next time that I need tires.

Beautiful restoration there Doug! I take it that 62mph was downhill? How did you do in the Giro?

Hi Scud, FWIW many here set their valve clearance to .006 intake/.008" exhaust. When I set mine to .004/.006 my bike would sometimes stall after being run hard in hot weather. Opening up the valve lash and balancing the throttle bodies cured that issue for me. Here's an quick & easy way to adjust your valve lash for the next time since you shouldn't have to retorque the head again. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17247&page=2&hl=%2Bvalve+%2Badjust&do=findComment&comment=191378

Nice write-up Bjorn! I just want to mention that after installing new springs, spacers and fork oil back in 2010 I found that the oil level in one leg dropped about 20mm after I rode it for a week. I found this out when I went back in to lower the oil level a bit because I wasn't getting full fork travel with the air gap at 100mm. I did pump forks quite a bit to work the air out of the cartridges before putting the springs in, so there must have been some air trapped in a cartridge that didn't work it's way out until I had ridden for a few hours.

When that happened to me it was because my helmet was getting old and the foam had relaxed. New cheek pads solved the problem.

The FBF crossovers from 7 or more years ago were very prone to cracking. I bought one and had a mounting bracket welded on that both supported the crossover and bridged the welds that were most likely to crack. It cracked anyway after maybe 15k miles. The stainless tubing that they use might just be too thin ? I don't know if their current product is the same as the ones they were selling years ago, but if it is I'd stay away. edit: Here's my FBF crossover after welding the support bracket on.