Tom M

My : Titanium bolts would a complete waste of money on a 500+ pound motorcycle. Dropping a few pounds of body weight would be healthier and cheaper. Put the money saved toward a better rear shock or better yet rider training if you really want to go faster. Here's a good program for a regular street rider like me. http://www.totalcontroltraining.net/

Finding the lightest rear tire that you can might be a better approach if you're looking to cut down on unsprung weight and rotational mass. Have you lifted your assembled rear wheel with the bevel box attached? It must weigh at least 50lbs. I doubt that saving maybe 1/2 pound on the brake rotor is going to make any noticeable difference in performance. That said, if you want a cooler looking brake rotor then go for it and please post a pic!

Of all of the Sport Touring type tires that I've used I think the best handling were Conti Road Attacks, but as Hubert mentioned they didn't last as long as I'd like. The best combination of long life and good handling has been the Michelin Pilot Road 3, but they are the most expensive tires that I've tried. I might try the Conti Road Attack 2 GT next as it's supposed to last longer than the regular Road Attack 2.

Agreed. I would add Ouiji Veck to that list too. He was an entertaining character and seemed like a great guy. I wish I got to meet him before he headed off to Hawaii. Speaking of great guys, haven't seen much of JRT around here since he got that big Duc...

Ohlins recommends that their rear shock is serviced every 20-30,000 kms which is about 13,000 - 19,000 miles. I have over 40,000 miles on mine so I am overdue. Even though it isn't leaking I'm sure the fluid is ready for a change and the nitrogen will need a recharge. I dropped it off last weekend at a local rebuilder and he said he would change the seal and replace any worn O-rings or other parts. Also offered to shim the piston since I had the rebound damping cranked way up (due to worn fluid?) so now my rebound adjuster should be more in the middle of it's range. All for the very reasonable cost of $76 plus parts. This is the guy that I'm using. If your bike is laid up for winter and it has an Ohlins shock with mileage similar to mine you might want to consider having it done before you HAVE to due to a failure in the middle of riding season. http://www.computrackboston.com/

sp838, Are the handlebar riser mounting holes in your top clamp counterbored on the top side? (Larger diameter hole with flat bottom bored partially through the clamp) If so you may not have an original top clamp. If not the previous owner probably drilled the stock top clamp himself for the handlebar risers. Date of manufacture and model years often don't match on bikes or cars. Lots of model year 2014 vehicles are built in late 2013. Here's Todd Haven's VIN decoder from way back when... Z is for Italy GU is for Guzzi KRAKR designates 1100 spine frame 2000-2002(sport and Lemans) 9th digit is undefined 10th digit is model year(or production) W-98, X=99,Y=2000,1=2001,2=2002 11-16th digits are identifying serial number for your specific bike.

I put Traxxion Dynamics springs in my forks but may have tried these if I knew about them at that time: http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=141_144&osCsid=2c716fff3c8519ba07957a0c27ea9d29 On oil height I found that I needed 110mm air gap rather than the 100mm that many start with to get full travel out of my forks once I installed the stiffer springs. Since it's much easier to add oil instead of removing it once your forks are installed you might want to consider starting at 110mm. Also note that I and others have seen the oil level drop on one side (compression?) because no matter how much I pumped the leg after adding oil in the shop there was apparently some air still trapped in the cartridge. I suggest checking your oil heights after a few rides to see if they're still equal.

You can remove tank without removing the fairing. I had to remove the two screws at the end of the fairing nearest to the seat so I could spread the fairing, otherwise the back of the tank wouldn't lift up. Once you've disconnected the fuel level sensor, gas and vent lines, the best way to remove the tank is to lift the rear, slide it backward so it clears the frame bumpers that hold the front of the tank in place, lift the front of the tank above the bumpers, then slide it forward before lifting it up. If you don't do it this way the FP regulator and petcock will hang up on the airbox.

Welcome to the site guys and congratulations on your V11s.

I'm about 230lbs plus riding gear. To get the sag right on my bike I went to 1.05 kg/mm springs with different preload spacers up front, and kept the 10 N/mm spring on my Ohlins shock in back and dialed the preload almost all the way up. My stock fork springs were about .85kg/mm. I'm not sure what the stock rear shock was but I believe it was softer than 10 N/mm. The sag targets that I started with are below. Once I got the sag in the ballpark I changed to 5wt fork oil and tuned the oil height and damper settings. I'm happy with the results. FRONT Unladen sag = 20mm (.79") Laden sag = 36mm (1.42") REAR unladen 5-10mm (.2 - .4") laden 30-40mm (1.18 - 1.57")

I agree with foto on this. Any of the aftermarket crossovers will fix the 4k rpm torque dip from the stock crossover. I had the Fast by Ferracci crossover, which was very similar to the Stucchi but not as well made, for four or five years until it cracked. I replaced it with a Mistral a few years ago. In my opinion both helped out the midrange grunt but the FBF was superior at higher rpm. If I was in the market for a crossover today I would go with the Stucchi over the Mistral.

If you ever run across one of those old Puch 250s, buy it! This one is valued at $30k. http://motocrossactionmag.com/vintagemx/News/CLASSIC-MOTOCROSS-IRON-1976-PUCH-MC250-TWIN-CARB-8110.aspx

According to the parts manual that I have there's a "flange gasket" on the fuel pump. The part number is 01 10 74 90

Check out September 24th and 26th in this blog. I'm guessing that they're from a recent Guzzi gathering in Mandello. GMG maybe? http://ottonero.blogspot.com/ Take another drink...from that Guzzi cup!

LR, you're not the only one who couldn't get that manhole cover screwed in without removing the oil pan. I too had to drop the pan to get the cover screwed in correctly a few years back. I find dropping the pan is a PITA, especially when I had to do it over again because I didn't use a new gasket. If you get a little gasket leakage be very careful about adding a little more torque to the screws in that area. I wasn't and now I own a nice M6 helicoil kit.

That sucks Kickeroo. Was there any indication that you lost oil pressure? Did whoever it was that dropped the sump check to see if the oil filter was still tight?

It sounds like you got it right Stu. I've replaced my pawl spring three times now. Huge thanks to V11Lemans.com, BelfastGuzzi, and KB for the instructions The first time I had a hard time getting the shifter plate back on the tranny because I didn't know how to postion the shifter forks inside the trans case to select neutral. Eventually I found that I needed to move each of the forks (the four pins that face you when looking in the trans) to the center of their travel on their shafts. By that I mean if each fork/pin slides laterally on it's shaft from left to right about 2" I would set them 1" from the end of their travel. That wasn't apparent in the instructions that I was using. Once I did that, and since I already had the shifter plate in it's neutral position, everything easily bolted back together and worked fine.

Hi Dazz, I'll check the rear wheel slop on my bike and get back to you in a day or two. Something that could have changed on your bike is the rear wheel's cush drive may have frozen. If you perform the mods suggested in this thread you will feel less drive line shock when shifting. It won't reduce the lash but you won't feel it as much. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11820&hl=cush I find my bike works best when I accelerate, brake and shift smoothly. When I rev match on downshifts while easing the clutch lever out I don't really notice the lash at all. If I don't rev match and snap the clutch out it's feels clunky.

I've never heard of anyone wearing out cush drive rubbers on a V11. In fact, lots of guys here have removed half of them and/or drilled holes in them to get more "cush" out of them. If you search the forum there's an old thread by Greg Field on this. If I'm reading it right it sounds like the the retainer plate should be removed so the bearing can be pressed all the way in. Maybe the internal spacer isn't lined up correctly and it's preventing the bearing from seating? In any case the shop should fix it for you. edit: here's the cush drive thread http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11820&hl=cush

If you're going with spoked wheels you might want to consider doing an "1100S" with a Tonti 1000S/LeMans tank like the V11 below but with 1000S stripes. I don't know how much work was involved in putting that Tonti tank, sidecovers, seta and tail on a V11 but whoever did it did a nice job.

Sounds like a great project Jim. What are you planning on using for the tank and seat?

I used SKF 6204-2RSH/C3 for the rear wheel. The front wheel with solid axle (marzocchi fork) uses a different bearing on each side: 52x 25x 15 mm = 6205-2RS 52x 20x 15 mm = 6304-2RS I think your Scura has a hollow axle? If so this thread says you need a pair of 6205 bearings. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5680&hl=front+wheel+bearings

Yup. Fox started out making motocross suspension components then jumped into the MTB industry much later. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fox_Racing They called their shocks FOX SHOX. No relation to the MTB suspension company ROCK SHOX. My little brother still has his MX FOX racing jersey from when he was racing in the late 70s. Ohlins started out as an MX suspension business too. www.ohlins.com/About-the-company/Our-HIstory/‎ My Maico was one of the last dual shock versions. They went to a monoshock on the '82 490 I believe. You are correct about the CC monoshocks breaking due to bad suspension geometry. Here's the story as told by a former longtime editor of DIRT BIKE magazine. http://articles.superhunky.com/4/74http://articles.superhunky.com/4/74 Sorry for the off topic stuff guys...

Interesting. My 1980 Maico 450 came with Corte Cosso remote reservoir shocks. Unlike Ohlins these days, the CC shocks weren't thought to be very good. Most racers swapped them for Fox Shox or something similar.

Maybe I shift too much? Sculler2x, I've been using Redline shockproof heavy in the gearbox since I bought the bike. It won't help the pawl spring. Gene, I might look into that secondary or alternate spring. Great sig line there Jaap!