pasotibbs

+1 I got an Ohlins but would have bought Hagon if not.

If you are talking about the part in the centre of the second picture then I think its the gearbox breather (to allow for expansion of the air/oil when hot and thus save the seals) it certainly looks the same as the breather on the rear drive box but I thought the gearbox breather had a rubber pipe on it ? Due to the short hugger fitted to the V11 when it rains this part gets the full force of the spray off the back wheel and water can get into the gearbox so the foil is probably to prevent this happening ?

The chip reads ELEX 14308D 6619A 3896 so is different (that would have been too easy !!) circuit board is marked MA 5504 10170000 the motor has no markings at all and is capable of 270deg+ motion so is probably a common part- as far as I know they do not fail in car application so failure may be due to the greater range of motion we have and/or vibration ? I'll measure the spacing and resistance when I get chance to confirm. Dave

If it runs fine other than that it could be you have a small leak on the exhaust, but check the inlet rubbers for tightness and splits.

The speedo on my Fiat stopped working today so while I was fixing it I took a photo of the tacho mechanism(I'd pulled the cable out of the head unit while fixing the wiper linkage... ), is it anything like a guzzi tach ? sorry the pics aren't very clear.

As others have said tight valve clearances can give a bad idle although this tends to be on US bikes that were given tighter std gaps than european bikes. Other than that, a loose timing chain tensioner can cause an uneven idle, but unless its really slow I can't see it causing stalling air leaks can occur if the inlet rubbers are loose or cracked but I would expect backfires etc with that !! what mods if any does the bike have ? If none it may be that the idle CO was altered for exhausts or Pod air filters that were removed before the sale ? If fuel consumption seems high also it could be the temp sensor is faulty and this would cause the ECU to richen the mixture (choke effect) even when warm, that would make the idle poor!! Most likely is the idle is too slow, 1200-1300 seems to be most peoples recommended speed(the tach will probably read high!!)or the TPS is way out of adjustment (there is a thread on here about this). Dave

The alternative clocks look interesting (page 36-43 in their PDF catalogue )

The clutch switch is located in the clutch lever assembly and is prone to failure (a replacement can be found at an electrical component shop), the side stand switch can also give problems, both can be bypassed for testing (by joining the wires that go to them) but then the bike can be started in gear and ridden with the stand down so it is not advisable to consider it a fix !!.

Maybe he saw this t shirt ?

Mine is a 2001 so the pump is on the outside, if the sensor is located on the L/H side forward of the fuel tap then its the same as mine and is just held in by 2 bolts. If its the same sensor as mine then remove the tank (remember to drain the fuel) and if you look underneath you should see the 2 bolts, there may be some sealant on the join but the sensor should remove ok (it would be quite easy to make a blanking plate and seal off the hole so you can still use the bike). I basically recreated the bikes wiring on the bench, with an old battery and a small 12v bulb to act as the dash light, I can't remember exactly but it was probably battery positive to bulb +ve then bulb -ve to sensor +ve and finally sensor -ve to battery negative (the bulb will work either way you wire it but the sensor may be directional ?) Test the circuit first without the sensor to make sure the bulb works ! Then connect the sensor, if after a few seconds the light hasn't come on rotate the connections on the sensor just to be sure . If it doesn't work then you could try to get to the thyristor and replace it, I seem to remember that it would be best to cut a section from the plastic tube as the wires to the sensor are quite short and as they are sealed at the bottom of the sensor will break if stretched to far.The sensor itself is a tiny component right at the top of the tube.

Sorry I didn't explain it well enough, the thyrister needs the current draw of a bulb to cause it to warm up and allow the bulb to light, when I tested mine I made up a test light circuit and initially condemned a replacement good sensor because I didn't wait long enough (after a few seconds the light comes on dim and gets brighter as the temp rises). As your bike side wiring and bulb check out ok its most likely that the sensor has failed but a check for a broken wire on the sensor is probably wise. If you remove it from the bike it is possible to strip it down and get to the thyristor (it sits at the top of a plastic tube) there was a good thread on a H***A Goldwing forum about fixing these type of sensors but I can't find it, this one gives some info http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_t...&forum_id=1

When checking the sender wait a few seconds as the thyrister takes quite a while to warm up !!

If I remember correctly the hole size and bolt spacing is different on the fuel sender ?

Remove the fuel cap assembly and make sure the 2 pipes that are moulded into the tank itself are clear, the one on the left is for fuel filling overflow / rain and the one on the right is the breather.

I may have missed it but has anyone suggested an earthing issue ? It is easy to add an earth strap between the engine/gearbox case and the battery -ve terminal, as you seem to have replaced all the other suspects it could just be as simple as that ?

As others have said I would say you have an air leak from a loose or split intake rubber, mine did the same with mega backfires when an intake popped out on my first ever ride !

I've often thought about checking the Veglia Tach's on Italian cars as they will probably share a lot of components with ours (I discovered this a few years ago with a Ducati Dash ! ). The Fiat FIRE engines (Fiat Cinquecento/Seicentoi/Punto)use a wasted spark ign (WM16 or similar?)so the tach may think its on a 2 cylinder anyway, but on the car tach's I've seen the values wouldn't line up with our faceplate so I don't think a direct swap of the complete internals is possible ?

Its a real pain to get at, I bought an internal bearing puller to get it out ! Putting a rawl bolt into the bearing inner race and using a long chisle/screw driver from the other side might work ? Dave

Just to muddy the water even more, mine changes with temp ! I've got a MY15M so can monitor the TPS easily and as the bike warms up the TPS changes, (this could be due to the idle speed increasing as Cliff has said but I thought I'd mention it)

There are 2 drainage holes in the filler cap assembly, from memory the one on the left is to allow rain water/spilt fuel to drain away and the one on the right is the tank breather.I suspect that the tank breather pipe is blocked so fuel that is expanded by external heat or by passing though the fuel pump circuit is getting out past the fuel cap seal and draining out the left hand drain instead.If I remember correctly the cap is held on by 3 of the bolts 10 , 2 and 6 oclock and 1 bolt under the cap?With the cap assembly removed you should be able to check the drains for blockages and clean them out.

no problem,glad I could help. Dave

I think you should be able to pop the catch by lifting the L/H/R corner of the seat and pushing the arm with something thin but strong, I used a ruler and it does reach the catch but I didn't risk damage by attempting to operate it hope this helps Dave

or put the hose clip on it to stop it coming loose