pasotibbs

R/H head inner towards the rear. Its in a plastic housing that breaks easily if you try to remove it but the sensor itself should unscrew ok.

your right there isn't a "choke" but "the ECU's cold start enrichment" takes longer to type

Could be that the temp sensor is faulty so the ecu's "choke" is always on ?

Turning the bolt with a few taps on a small chisle worked for me,but others here have said that the best way is to warm the bolts first to soften the thread lock before attempting to remove them. Getting the bearings out is tricky as the spacer between them gets in the way, I bought a bearing puller in the end which made it easy.

Australians know how to stop liquids moving about http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/asia-pacific/7397867.stm

Mine has always started easily, it may take a few revolutions to catch but no more than 2 seconds of cranking. The fuel pump is behaving normally so the problem is elsewhere, it could be something as stupid as the temp sensor not working correctly so that the ECU doesn't richen the mixture ? I would crank it over with the fast idle off and if it shows no sign of life take a plug out to see if its wet with fuel, if there's fuel it could be an electrical issue but as you say the bike runs well once running it seems odd.I suppose corroded connections in the Ign circuit could mean that the coils produce a weak spark while cranking, so thats easy to check while you've got the plug out (I use a jump lead to ground the body of the plug as its easier than trying to hold it against an earth point) If the plug is dry after cranking then it seems likely that there is a fueling issue of some sort but as you say the bike runs well I can't see the Injection system being faulty so I would be tempted to look at the temp sensor first . These are just some quick ideas, I'm sure someone here will think of some better ones Good Luck Dave

I believe I'm right in saying that the pump location was changed several times (3 ?) the final location being in the tank itself. So the answer to your question is that the location is correct for your bike

I'd start by holding a lower road speed with the same or higher RPM for the same length of time it takes to get to 100mph ? If speed is the issue then maybe the wind blast /vibration is moving a electrical connection ? seems really strange though !

good idea 10% now

up to 9% now !

the SV650 is a great bike, but not in this colour !

[http://www.webbikeworld.com/Moto-Guzzi-motorcycles/3000-ie/

A few from my youth.. Roobarb and Custard http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=zhebou3tsiM&...feature=related Danger Mouse http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=cnx9K0wXuQU Ivor the engine http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fDWk0BCeblQ&...feature=related Not cartoons but still animation The Magic Roundabout http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=c3DcChXNyYQ&...feature=related Camberwick Green http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=uRE7BG_w72k&...feature=related Trumpton http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=G7ZWWwV4_-M&...feature=related Bagpuss http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=70kUVZWokm4&...feature=related Wombles http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=h4Yws7RuzxE And the best for last http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=HArUmqqiL0s&...feature=related

Yes all the Blackadders were good, but whatever happened to the guy that played the Prince Regent

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/

Headers are just cleaned and polished up (scotchbrite,1200 wet and dry,and metal polish), the rack if I remember correctly is from http://www.motomeccaspares.com/ search for "Carrier V11 Sport Black" there isn't a picture but I'm pretty sure thats the one.

Found a link http://www.trippinontwowheelstv.com/sicilypreview.html

As you can see there are no baffles in the cans !! I made new hangers and a new X-over bracket using a car exhaust mount.

Finally fitted my Mistral X-over, LC1 and M4's

Just to clarify what your saying, you've lost front and rear side lights and the brake light but still have dipped and main beam ? And all you changed was the front brake light switch or do you mean the whole R/H switch cluster (Starter etc)? I'd take the tank off and check the bar switch connectors or failing that maybe a wires come off the Ign switch (I don't have a wiring diagram here so I'm guessing ).

Found some indicators http://shop.wemoto.com/pictures.dyn?u=5836261qqq3657982 £11.75 each They have a flexable stem and just require the mounting hole to be increased in size and moved back slightly ( a round file did it in no time) The only problem is that they don't come with nuts, its a fine metric thread (1.25 I think) my local nut and bolt supplier couldn't help but my mate at a S*z*k* dealer found me some straight away.

As for the indiators, if there is room you couldn't you put 2 LED's in,(one for each direction) ?

Not sure if you can change the fuel level bulb, I thought the thyrister in the tank required the current draw of a normal bulb to heat up enough?

Is this what you are looking for ? http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/42