pasotibbs

Thanks I'll check it out

What Lambda options have been tried ? As I've just got a pair of M4's and a Mistral X-over (thanks Greg )I need to look at going closed loop on the MY15M thats been sat on a shelf in my garage for a year waiting for me to get the time to set it up

[quote name='tmcaf

[quote name='tmcaf

On my 2001 the low fuel sensor is a thyrister and I assume this is the same as all the V11's ? The thyrister only allows current to flow when it gets hot so if its covered by fuel the light is off (this is why LED's don't work here as they don't draw enough current to warm the thyrister),if the fuel is low it takes a few seconds to fully warm up so the bulb gets slowly brighter(but at least it doesn't flash madly like a float sensor would). I haven't worked out my MPG but on a trip through France with pillion and luggage my friends 850 Lemans II (solo with luggage)was about the same which seemed pretty good to me !.

I replaced my coil mountings with some slightly larger "bobbins" that I had left over from when I worked on Renaults(20 yrs ago ) , if I remember correctly they are exhaust mountings for Renault 4 and 5's (the mk 1, with the engine and g/box in backwards ) so should be much better than stock . Don't know if they are still available in the UK as almost all the 4 and 5's here rusted away years ago but I would have thought they are still to be found in France

On mine the light wouldn't come on until the engine had been run for a few minutes and then switched off! Then it started to switch on and off for the first few minutes after start up, I took this as a sign of impending doom and swapped the rectifier/regulator before it had chance to let me down. Much better now

With the bike on the sidestand I put an axel stand under the R/H side (just inside of the porkchop) and then use a scissor jack located on the L/H side to slowly raise the bike until the wheel is clear of the ground. I was worried this wouldn't be stable enough but the jack (an old 80's Toyota one I think) has a large base and isn't going to creep back down like a hydraulic jack could.

You access the bulbs from the rear by removing 4 acorn nuts and pulling off the large cover behind the clocks, the bulbs are in rubber holders that pull out of the display panel (it may be easier to find the neutral switch wiring and bridge it to test the bulb ). The gearchange should be better than that so its probably worth checking the linkage for free movement and loose fittings, if that checks out then there is an adjuster located on the side of the case(I've never touched it but understand that very small adjustments are required to find the right spot) a search on here should find the thread but most likely someone else will advice you.

I think the problem lies in the Master cylinder, but the weird thing is that you where able to bleed the system ok Did you adjust the freeplay in the linkage afterwards? If you did back off the adjustment to give say 5mm or so clearance and road test it. The brake applying itself when it gets hot to the point where you can hardly push it seems to imply that the fluid is expanding and being unable to get through the master cylinder drilling is pushing the caliper pistons out, creating more heat so more pressure and so on.... As the pads are so small I can't see the pads not retracting fully due to a caliper fault is causing this alone, it may start the problem by generating more heat than normal but replacing it may not be a complete cure. Even resting your foot on the pedal shouldn't cause this fault, you will go through pads/disks (and petrol )at an exteme rate but no mater how hot the brake gets it should still be possible to roll the bike when you take your foot off the pedal and let the pressure escape through the master cylinder good luck Dave

That's what my Griso does. Turn on the key, gauges do their little dance, all ready to go now, but the headlight is OFF until the engine starts. With the engine running, turn the run switch to OFF, and the headlight goes out. These newfangled bikes are great, aren't they? Think it might be possible to make a V11 behave like this? I wonder what sensor they use to throw the switch on the headlight... -Jack or to put it another way which sensor is going to fail and plunge you into darkness :-)

Do you think its possible that the flatspot was designed in to pass noise tests ? I heard that the test is carried out at a certain road speed in 2nd gear so most makers add a flatspot to match this point in the rev range, maybe just over did it or covered the entire worlds test range with 1 big flatspot

how about this http://www.promotorcyclesalvage.co.uk/ it used to belong to oldtoolie on this forum

It really depends on the year and model your thinking of getting, the Ohlins suspension versions are best as unless you fit a proper hugger our climate kills the Sachs Shock due to the spray off the rear wheel being directed right at the lower mounting joint (its not very good anyway ) Its a bit like owning a classic car instead of a modern car, if you are happy to get grease under your fingernails then you will really enjoy fixing the odd thing that crops up , if however you get someone else to spanner for you then you may find it expensive and irritating. I've got a 2001/2002 model Lemans and really like it, but I keep my bikes for years (14 and counting for my Ducati) and enjoy working on them as much as riding them as do most people here. Let us know exactly what model / year your thinking of getting and others will give their

I was thinking from his description that as it only occurs in very heavy braking that it was "g force related" but it could be it's just stalling due to being badly setup as you say, it just seems weird for the fire to go out on both pots (maybe the flints are wet )

I would start with checking all electrical connections first as a failure here is most likely to give the symptoms you describe (the side stand switch would be my first suspect), if it only occurs during heavy braking then it could be movement of loose battery terminals or water in a switch or relay ? If all normal fault finding fails try to find a quiet road and make the fault appear, if you can make it happen on demand then you could attach a test light to find which circuit is failing,for instance it could be just the supply to the fuel pump or ECU rather than the entire ignition circuit that goes dead (it may be that if the ignition circuit goes dead someone watching from behind will see the brake light go off ?) good luck

I think that the video is a fake but I still think that to truly bust the myth they needed to try a selection of cars and older models . As I said before this story has been around in the UK for 20yrs and if I remember correctly was only linked to the central locking Fords of that time. If the myth is true then as I've said before its probably due to the electrical contacts being closed by the air being forced through the central locking switch (usually mounted on the back of the lock barrel) rather than the lock itself being breached ? If only we knew a UK Police officer, then he could ask the Traffic Division if its true

This is really old here in the UK (maybe 20 yr's), I remember it from when I was training as a mechanic, the son of a police officer told me he'd seen his father actually do this when someone locked themselves out of their car (he claimed the police kept finding half a tennis ball at car theft sites and finally worked out why!).I seem to remember it only worked on the central locking Fords of the time (which could explain why Cosworths were never where the owner left them ) but a workmate (the bouncing Czech ) says he heard it worked on some Skodas, I figured it must have been a weakness in the electrical contacts that fire the central locking motors rather than the lock itself (you don't have to unlock the car with the air pressure but just get the central locking to switch) but never tried it out because it could dent the door panel. The other one I heard is that with Porches you kick the boot floor hard and the doors unlock because its designed to unlock the if it thinks its been rear ended But it just could be a myth ?

There is always oil left in the filter, cooler etc so 3lt will be about right, as you say another thread is currently discussing the oil level / dipstick marks and I'm sure others will advise best practice here( I think the safest without a Roper Sheet installed is to not let the oil get anywhere near the low mark but keep it at the high level)

I agree this is a little confusing, if I understand correctly the FI system is based on a fixed predetermined map,TPS position,engine temp,air temp and RPM are used by the ECU to determine how much fuel should be injected at that given point.As others have said throttle closed is completely closed ie fast idle linkage removed (don't lose the little c clip) and idle screws backed out fully, you then set the TPS itself to 150mv(this gives the baseline from which the map is calculated), then you adjust the idle screw until the TPS reads 525mv( the value can change when the engine is running due to output from the alternator so you may want to set it to 500 with the engine off then tweak later while balancing the throttles), the ECU should now be in the correct area of the map for a good idle (the actual RPM can be fine tuned by the air bleed screws if required) As I understand it some fuel injection systems can determine how much air is flowing into the engine and from that determine the amount of fuel to inject, but ours can't, so if you set the idle TPS wrong the entire map is potentially off.

Before anyone else does

I've just put an Ohlins on mine so if your really stuck you can borrow my old Suchs, sorry Sachs

I've never had or heard of a problem with stability on the Lemans, I may be wrong, but I think I read somewhere here that the early red frame V11 Sports had a steeper steering head angle, this could have made them slightly more sensitive to bad riding styles ! generally Guzzi's are considered more stable than most. I can't see that larger diameter front forks would improve stability as such , but I assume they would improve the handling due to them bending less under extreme braking and cornering forces ? just buy it and enjoy

It looks like a 2001-early 2002 model to me,I think I'm right in saying big give away is if it has a front crossover as these first appeared on bikes made in 2002 ? It probably sat in a showroom for a year or so (or was in a crate at the back of the warehouse ) so don't worry about it, if its good condition,low miles and has some history from previous owners then its worth 4200 easy. Looks like a real nice bike (its actually the same colour as mine ) I like the colour matched seat hump (mines grey not candy) and the belly pan.Buy it, but get them to change the spring if it makes you feel better ,then ride it like you stole it