pasotibbs

It could be relay related but if I understand you correctly most of the dead items are on the left bar switch so I'd check the connections in the multiplug for corrosion (remove the tank and its on the LHS of the upper frame rail) the front brake switch fault could be unrelated (maybe its full of water due to the lovely weather we are currently having ) . Someone else may have a better idea but even if this isn't the cause cleaning and greasing all the electrical connections here is a wise move so your not wasting your time , pay particular attention to the regulator wires as one of these corrodes badly and eventually breaks

Some Fiats used the same switch, but I haven't had anything to do with Fiats in years. I am a happy guy, and drink much less now, as a result. FIAT= Fix It Again Tomorrow I have 2 Fiats so I can alternate

Yesterday at Mallory Park, Festival of 1000 bikes.

The increase in idle speed could indicate an air leak on the injector body rubbers either because of a split or 1 of the injector bodies could be falling out of the rubbers ,even if it isn't leaking air yet any movement here will also throw the linkage between the 2 sides out causing the throttles to go out of balance. good look

I think I'm right in saying that the brake light sensor is a pressure switch,if so an increase in fluid pressure due to heat would possibly apply the brake light as well as the brake ? You may be right about the cause in this case but it could also be another visible sign of impending doom

Just a thought but it might be worth checking the wheel bearings for play and make sure the front spindle spacer is on the correct side (LHS). Other than that I'd say "ride it like you stole it" I've found that the Guzzi takes its lead off the rider if your nervous it responds with the same.

I think you should use whatever Trans oil you are currently using as thats where the cable oil ends up.

The speedo is cable driven with the takeoff on the RHS (top) of the gearbox, so it could be cable failure.

I'd check the master cylinder and pushrod adjustment, if the piston can't fully return to the "off" position it is possible that the hole to the fluid reservoir is not uncovered stopping expanding fluid from escaping. I've had this on my Ducati (chasing a 748 down an Alp on the way to WDW 2004)and the Guzzi, with both it was caused by me adjusting the rod to give just the right amount of freeplay on the master cylinder,which would have been fine if the master cylinder piston had actually been fully returned ! (cleaning rust,dirt from inside the Cylinder and repairing the scratched nylon bush on the piston cured this). If I'd not adjusted the freeplay the pressure would have pushed the piston to its true "off" position and the pressure would have been released but with nowhere to go other than the caliper pistons you just get heat causing pressure causing more heat and so on... As a rough guide if you can bleed the system ok then the master cylinder piston must be fully returned otherwise the fluid level wouldn't go down.

These look like good alternatives (if you like digital) http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_m...eedometers.html

# A friend at work (The Bouncing Czech as we call him ) told me that he could get a shock eye made in Czech easily, so I let him take the broken part with him when he went home for Christmas. He has just got back from another visit and collected the finished part while he was there, the guy that did it has used aviation spec alloy and increased the thickness of the eye part slightly, not bad don't you think. It could be worth getting one made 10mm longer to give Ohlins like ride height , although the total travel would still be 10mm shorter than an Ohlins of course.

Shouldn't this be in the ride it like ya stole it thread ?

After 170 miles (town work,four junctions of motorway and some fast A roads the pinion had developed a tiny amount of play, I got the box off the bike and adjusted the play out with a couple of light taps to tighten the castleated nut. I'll keep an eye on this and adjust again if required.

With mine the alloy cracked again down the full length of the thread when I removed it from the shaft,it was thread locked and the alloy let go first ! I can only assume that the alloy is to wrong for this application and the corrosive expansion of the alloy and steel around the shock eye is enough to cause failure.A dry climate and grease to waterproof rather than lube the eye would reduce the risk, wet, salty conditions (a British winter ) would make it almost certain to fail. The best we can do is keep the rear wheel spray off the shock and grease the area between the eye and the alloy ,it may be possible to remove the eye from the shock clean any corrosion and grease it but the risk of the casting cracking may be too great, anyone want to try ?

The bike is now taxed and tested , there are no noises or oil leaks so it looks like the bevel box is fixed.

I didn't have the tool so used two big screw drivers to do it up as tight as possible by hand then tapped it round a little more with one screwdriver and a hammer (not much further than by hand but just to make sure it was truly seated). When I looked at the bearing before I installed it there was no visible gap between the split race when I pressed it together, so I assume it isn't intended to be adjustable and the nut should be reasonably tight Now that it is built up there is no play at all in the pinion and it feels smooth in operation but hopefully I'll road test tomorrow and see how it goes.

Off work tomorrow, pinion and crownwheel in the freezer and heat gun at the ready Well the box is back together. I bought a bearing separator/puller to go with my existing puller, these combined with my vice and a little bit of lateral thinking made the job possible. [ I used the old bearings to protect the new bearings that had to be tapped into place. The case seals and bearings went in quite easily, the pinion and crown wheel inner race pressed into place with the separator and vice or puller with little effort but getting the pinion into the case proved tricky as I didn't want to use a hammer or push inner bearing race. In the end I used the bearing puller with one leg into the case opening and the other under a slight lip on the case outer (remember the case isn't thick at the opening so be gentle and take it slow !!) to press the pinion into the case by using the castleated nut upside down with various washers and a socket to load only on the outside of the bearing (making sure it went in straight so the pinion nose bearing lined up), once it was far enough in to expose the thread I turned the nut the correct way up and pushed the bearing fully in by tightening it (while gently heating the case with the heat gun). Just got to put it on the bike and tighten the pinion nut up against the brake. So basically buy a puller and a separator (I wish I'd bought it earlier to remove the old bearings rather than using a grinder ) I got the missing inner race for the outer case support bearing (IR 20 25 18)for £8.80 and the O ring (BS 143) for 24p

Thats the same outer as a V11 and I measured the inner race as 20x25x18 so thanks for confirming this. Off work tomorrow, pinion and crownwheel in the freezer and heat gun at the ready

I have it now 000043567000

I got those 2 bearings also, they don't appear to be from the bevel box so I'd ignore them. I brought the issue of the inner race up with Jack on Monday morning as it appears Rossoandy didn't order or query the lack of the inner race on his order (we assume he reused his ?) The ring comes out quite easily(it may make a bid for freedom if your not careful) but the inner race does not ! I used a grinder and then heat to crack the race but its really close to the seals location so disaster is a real possibility, it would be better to get a bearing separator/puller as the inner bearing race on the pinion is the same ! My nut arrived yesterday so I should have everything I need to reassemble....maybe good luck

Jack has solved the bearing size issue, it should be an "I 12/16" bearing not a 12/16 (the I means it has an internal race and this makes the whole bearing bigger) The seal is actually a 38x50x7 (its written on the inside behind the spring ) The old bearing races are removed (grinder and some heat) so reassembly can start when I get the seal and bearing.

One of the seals is wrong also Its the seal pressed into the casing behind the big roller bearing that supports the crownwheel shaft. Now that I have it out it looks like a 40x50x6 (no markings so measured) not a 37x55x6 as I was told, the other bearings and seals look ok so far. The inner race on the pinion is difficult to remove as is the inner race on the crownwheel assembly as they don't have anywhere for a puller to grip, I'll seek help getting these off I think. All the other bearings are out so when I've sourced the pinion nose bearing and the correct seal I should have all I need to start putting it back together.

I talked them through the exploded view picture on the phone so don't know the number, but maybe when it arrives ? I've just gone through the new bearings now that I've got the old pinion bearing out and noticed the new pinion nose bearing is the wrong size !! (the 12/16 needle roller) If you've got one ordered you may want to cancel it for now, unless there are two types of bearing (which seems unlikely) it would appear that the list I got from Jack was wrong for this one. The writing is very small on the bearing but it looks like 27 16 to me I'll try to match it at the local bearing supplier and let you know .

I got the pinion out using large washers/spacers and a bolt in the M8 thread to draw it out but Andy used a sliding hammer.I finally got the pinion nut off today by cutting off the seal and taking the bearing apart so only the inner race remained, using the inner race in the vice jaws I cut a slot almost through the nut and by heating it up was able to unsrew it. I bought a blind bearing removal tool (a sliding hammer that can grip the inside of a bearing) and pulled the pinion nose bearing with no problem at all (it will help with wheel bearings as well ) I've still got to tackle the other bearings and seals so I'll keep posting as I go. Reassembly is something I have still to tackle so I can't help much there at the moment . The part I'm missing is the inner race of the pinion nose bearing Andy's order included 2 bearings that I haven't seen in the box 2* 609zz, the list I gave is all the bearings I have seen so far so unless they live somewhere underneath the crownwheel (that I have yet to remove) I don't think you need to order them (I think Rossoandy has been busy so I've been unable to confirm this).(RossoAndy later confirmed these were actually on his order but were for something else-and he forgot to tell me) I've taken Friday off to try and source the inner race and continue the strip down so I'll let you know what I find. If you haven't already get the nut ordered as I was told it would be a week to deliver (mine should arrive thur/fri hopefully) Good luck