pasotibbs

I may be wrong but I believe the later cans had small Catalytic converters in them ? If your bike has a lambda sensor in the crossover then I would be inclined to keep the cans stock and maybe buy replacements but you'll find fitting a Mistral crossover will alter the exhaust sound/volume slightly so try this first as you may find that is enough ? If you mod the airbox lid you'll get a lot more induction noise,if you get another lid you can put it back to stock if its too loud!!

That's probably about average,it is like you say "a piece of string" question, if you use the rear all the time it'll be worn out in no time but if you use it mainly for slow speed stability it'll last a lot longer but ultimately the pads are very small, even when new are not very thick and the V11 is very heavy !! If I remember correctly the caliper is off a small scooter (50cc?)and its way smaller than the caliper/pads fitted to the rear of my lighter Ducati!!!

You'll find that rear pads wear out very quickly even if you use the rear brake normally !!!

In the UK you can't smoke in Pubs or even in a company vehicle (ie works van). We have a ban on all NHS property so smokers(staff and patients) have to stand on the street.

My Red/Grey has a CF dash.

I was once told that heli-coils were developed during WW2 because the alloy threads holding Spifire wings on failed in high speed dives Not sure if its true or not ?

MotoMecca have Mistrals I'm sure that others will suggest more. Have you considered flying via LA as you may have more options/better prices in the US ?

That works out at 9.2 miles per litre and 42 miles per UK gallon. I worked out that my Lemans was doing approx 44 MPG (UK) so it may not be far off ?

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Legs ZZ top ?

Check the wiring under the tank, the connectors don't seem to like our climate much

Astalites are like Honda's Comstars in construction and were a popular after market wheel option with kits available for many bikes (my Ducati has a pair) Hesketh's had them and they were actually made here in Sheffield !! very much sought after for classic racing

Honda's tribute to the worst of BMW's designs perhaps ??

Yes, if I remember correctly the ball sits between the lever and the button on the switch.

+1 on all the above,. Also as its not been mentioned it's possible that the torque reaction of the engine may play a part if you change the engine speed quickly mid turn (ie upshift , downshift or use big throttle changes ) I've never noticed it myself but then my riding style is to corner with a constant or slightly opening throttle whenever possible !

+1 for the valves How does it run when warmed up ? If it seems "off"(erratic idle etc) it might be worth checking the inlet rubbers for leaks ?

I believe that they are not available from MG (you have to replace the entire arm) but I'm sure there was a tread about replacing them with bushes from a car ? Thread here I think most people replace the arm with one of the lovely anodized aluminium arms that are available(not that expensive). http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=torsion

Check the external linkage first, the joints may require cleaning and oiling. If you remove the starter (remember to disconnect the battery first) you can easily check it.

I'd say just about any BL product of the 80's !! I always liked the official BL solution to water in the Allegro's boot.....take a drill and make 2 holes in the floor !!!

Almost certainly water in the sensor, my Ducati used to do it all the time if ridden in the rain for any long distance, the V11's done it once so far. I'd replace the sensor but waterproof the new one as much as possible as water seems to get in between the connector and the plastic part of the sensor.In the past I've tried to get the water out of the sensor by drilling a small hole in the plastic (near the connector) and using WD40 and then switch cleaner but they've never been reliable afterwards.

Get the bike back if you can,a length of car heater hose can be used to get the bike mobile [i made one for mine and it still seems ok after 2 years,but I don't do many miles!!] and then you can then buy a new one or as others have said a trip to a breakers yard may supply a suitable replacement from a car.

What happens if you disconnect the regulator wires as I suggested ? If the lights stay on then you may have a short between the regulator side of the 30amp fuse and the regulator itself somewhere in the loom but perhaps in (or most likely below) the fusebox itself? It might be worth looking at the dash light wiring to see where the +ve feed is coming from when the ign is off then you can trace it back to its source ?

I'd remove the tank (remember to remove the fuel pump relay to avoid the risk of spraying fuel if you power the ign circuit ) then with the ign off disconnect the wires from the regulator until the dash lights go out (+ve,-ve ,dash light and the 2 generator wires if I remember correctly)if it doesn't have any effect then the fault may be elsewhere, it may be as simple as a short in the wiring around the headstock ? When my replacement regulator went faulty last month (30 amp fuse blowing) I discovered the regulator case was live due to an internal short , with a heat gun I was able to remove the potting compound and see a burnt area between the board and the case maybe due to water getting in ?

Yes of course it does

Perhaps its because the V twin "breathes" heavier than a flat twin due to the changes of crankcase volume ?