guzzimeister

Hi Roy's right, if the bike has been used on a series of short journeys condensation will leave water in the oil making it milky. Change it when you get a moment, but it won't hurt it in the short term. Guzzis are aircooled so no other chance for the water to get in there. Misfiring can be due to, in rough order of occurrence: - ECU relay or injection relay (4th and 5th from left) not connecting properly, usually due to the connector working its way down in the realy block. Pull the relay out, it you can't see all the connectors properly, that's the problem - ECU or injection relay failing, rarer but not unknown - the same applies to fuses in the fusebox - safety cutout circuits as Roy advises All the above apply if the misfiring occurs under all speeds and all loads. If it is only when the engine has warmed up and is under load eg accelerating, it is something breaking down electrically as it warms up. If its both cylinders, replace the injection or ECU relay. If it's on one cylinder only, it will be, usually in this order: - HT lead from coil - spark plug cap - 12v supply to coil - coil itelf - very rarely the spark plug itself If the misfing occurs at low throttle openings independent of load, it will be due to a lean fuel mixture. Check for air leaks at the injector rubbers, these must be perfect condition. Afer that check the TPS setting (covered elsewhere in this forum. Failing that check the balance of the injectors (also covered elsewhere). Good luck Guzz

Hi chaps the Wix filter is OK, it's standard European auto aftermarket spare. I've used it plus Halfords HOF218 in muy bike no probs. If I'd put it in my car, I'd put it in my bike. Filter for the Euros among us is used on a Fiat Panda 85 onwards. Note Champion quote F107 as a fitment for this but it won't fit a V11, too tall. Cheers Guzz

Hi have had this happen to me. It is corrosion between the alloy wheel and the valave stem, eventually leads to threads stripping and the insert not sealing against the wheel. Two solutions. One is to buy a new insert - surprisingly hard to find. Second is to find a wsher that slips over the valave stem. Take a metal valve cap and grind the top off to make a tube. Screw said tube over washer hard and iot will seal. has lasted 40k miles on my bike. Put a drop of oil on stem before this to prevent further corrosion. BUT keep an eye on it. Cheers guzz

Ji the PC will work with your bike. Main issues are: - I think your bike has Lambda sensors so available maps might not work as effectively on your bike as the non sensored one - the H pipe is their to give a freer flowing exhaust system so sam applies here also It depnds on what you want from the PC. Most people want either elimination of the V11 "cough" which occurs at a steady speed slight throttle opening, or better bottom to mid range torque. Both are actually manifestations of the same problem ie that MG set the V11 up very lean to meet strict emissions controls in the US and Switzerland. The cure is simple, richen up the fueling by up to 10% in the first 30% of throttle opening. It's the equivalent of opening the pilot mixture screw on a carb. If you want to be really scientific, do it in conjunction with a dyno test, but I did it by feel gradully richening the mixture up where the bike felt weak, until I got it how I wanted it. It took about 10 iteearions til I got it right but it's a nice bike now. Cheers Guzz

If you've recently been tinkering then perhaps something wasn't done up sufficiently. You should revisit those things and check again. Hi symptoms are due to the engine running lean. Number of reasons: - leaks in the TB rubbers. This can sometimes be detected by spraying WD40 around the TB rubbers, the engine idle will increase slightly. But pls note that the leakage that will affect idling is often so small this won't show anything. Make sure you you check the rubber BOTH sides of the TB. The ones to the air filter can degrade badly before they affect anything but when they do they will produice this symptom. The ones beyween TB and cylinder are absolutely critical and a tiny leak will give the symptoms you describe - TPS set slightly low, try 175mV at true idle ie throttle stop screw wound completely out - throttle body spindle seal leak. Difficult to fix because it's hard to buy the spare seals but easily corrected with a Power Commander richening the mixture in the bottom third of the TB opening range (I'm doing this). Alternatively, the bodgers route is to set the true idle TPS value to say 200mV which will richen things up right through the whole range I suggest you try these out in this order. I guess it runs OK from cold and gets worse as it warms up ie as the mixture leans out? Please note it's not unusual for the TPS position to shift if you have not tightened up the retaining screws tightly. Hope this helps Guzz

Hi Bad idling is likely to be roughly in order of likelihood and ease of diagnosis: 1. leaks in the throttle body rubbers 2. very out of balance throttle bodies 3. TPS setting too lean ie 4. TPS fault eg open circuit 5. very very badly adjusted PC 6. throttle body spindle seal leaking on 50K miler bikes 7. pressure regulator starting to fail (v rare) A list created from much experience. Common denominator except point 2 is all give a lean setting. Another clue is jerky hunting on a light trailing throttle or hunting at a steady speed. Bike runs quite hot so unless it is really really lean you don't get much of a clue from the plugs. Likewise 60%+ throttle openings see the bike running perfectly. The reason why it shows when hot is that the startup mixture is very rich on the standard ECU setting, and stays so for at least 15 miles. This compensates for the otherwise lean setting so for the first few miles the bike runs fine. Cheers Guzz

Yes - it is one of the known, common faults - the OEM speedo was crap. If it is still "working" (not totally f'd) then there is a fix - search for it, I think Greg Field posted about it. I blew up mine on a long trip a few years ago at about 10,000 miles, but luckily I had scheduled a service at my next stop - MPH in Houston. Todd had a new speddo there, and Mike put it in and did the other things I needed, and off I went. no problems since then. Hi Pete the black plastic 30 degree gearbox is a fragile creature, and fails easily if the speedo cable is not well lubed or the cable outer is misaligned when it is screwed on. Early v11s use one at bothe the speedo and the transmission drive end, later ones have a feed straight from the gearbox ie vertical with the black plastic thingy fitted at the speedo only. Both are identical. Failure mode is that the gears wear til they don't engage any more. Once lubed they are OK, mine is 50K+ and still going.... that's jinxed me! Cheers Guzz

Hi if using a colourtune, flame should be showing blue with a touch of yellow. I would say your'e not far off. Be aware old Le Mans has an accelerator pump in the carb, so you need to have a good long run to check plug colour, as even when warm, blipping from idle will soot the plugs up due to the big gob of fuel that the APs will chuck into the engine. Cheers Guzz

Hi don't wish to be argumentative, bt the PC3USB certainly does offer adjustemnt below 40% throttle, I know cos I've just done it. From memory I believe the increments are 5, 10, 20 and then 40% throttle. Cheers Guzz

Pretty sure that's what's in mine. I believe all the V11's have the same ECU. Hi they all have the same ECUs. Mk1s (red frame no engine bracing) fuel map differs slightly from mk 2 (black frame and engine bracing). Richer at the low end I believe. Adiing a PCiii allows you to richen it a bit more which helps the low end fuelling enormously, smoother and better low to mid torque. Cheers Guzz

Can you tell me where you bought it? Thanks Mike Hi had mine rebuilt with Showa internals, any good shock rebuilder can do this for about 1/3 price of an AM or OEM replacement. WP used to crack as wekk, mine did. Cheers Guzz

Hi if you find it wassn't the crank phase sensor, another leak point is the connection between the oil cooler hose and the cooler. These afre sealed with Dowty washers which do occasionally fail, very cheap and easy to replace.Incidentally my experience is that the location of the oil is no guide to the leak area, ther are some strange vortices set up when the bike is in motion and when my oil sender leaked (yet another leak point!) it was all over the right side of the engine. Weird eh? Cheers Guzz

Hi as a last resort take throttle bodies off and check spindle seals. On some bikes these leak with age and give rise to these symptoms due to the weak mixture. Doesn't necessarily cause erratic idling either. I know 3 bikes with this problem. Hope it helps Guzz

try this one, perennial problem with V11s is that they are lean between 2000 and 3000 rpm, no doubt to meet tough emissions laws in Switzerland and California. This leads to jerky running and response between 10 and 20% of throttle opening. Map attached is for a V11 with mistrals and K & N type plat filter in a stock airbox; it might work for you. It's very good for my bike, no jerking on the overrun, no hiccup, no flat spots at all. Hope it helps Jon 110514 v11.djm

Thank you Paul, it was a hole about 20mm long in the LH intake rubber. Always start with the simple stuff first..... At the risk of starting a very long thread, I have replaced a few of these, and find the ratio of left to right rubbers to be about 3 to 1. Anybody got the same experience? Cheers and thanks to all for your help Guzz

I don't think yuou've blown your ECU, it's either a relay or fuse connection. Check that the connectors for the relays especially have not pushed down into the relay block so you have an open circuit. Fuse block is also prone to the same problem, I have +ve earthed my ECU a few times, I can't see how it could hurt it. If necessary disassemble both blocks and plug reklays/fuses straight into the cfonnectors to make sure they are actually connected. I had the same problem and this is what cured it. Guzzi use really shit quality Lucars, Cheers Guzz

In my case, changing the valve lash to greater values (I adopted the 20-25 option) centainly helped. But the greatest improvement came from adjusting the temp sensor in the right cylinderhead. That did cure the Italian sneeze, made great improvement in not-running-hot-in-hot-wheater en improved heating up (meaning reaching optimumum oil temp quicker). Maybey All (forummember) has already also adjusted his tempsensor in the way I`ve advised him, and he is willing to share the changes? (All Roethisberger is his name, hopefully well spelled) Good luck with all these advices!! Velf2003 Thanks fellas, I'll look at the temp sensor and let you know how I got on Cheers Guzz

Yeah I think you'll have to remove the pork chop side plates, the swingarm, driveshaft, etc. Just make sure you mark the threads on the side plates for when you put it back together. Theres another recent thread on pork chop removal and you should check that out, it will help you alot. Hi having done this, you need only to remove swing arm and drive shaft. MAKE SURE ALL IS CLEAM BEFORE YOU HOOK OUT THE SEAL. As suggetsed make sure you take note of the setting of the screw in pins for the swingarm, but frankly it's not critical. Cheers Guzz Thanks for the input to both of you. Would this be a good time to check the swing arm bearings as well. The bike's got close to 70k miles on rough roads her in Vt. and other parts in Northeastern U.S. Wondering what the likelyhood would be. Leon Definitely woth a look, mine are getting notchy at 54k miles. If you take them out tell me how you did it please. Supposed to be a b$£%^&*d of a job.... Guzz

Hi I have a V11 2001 model with 54k miles showing. It runs very well except for a slight stumble and hunting at 3000 revs, which is the last sign of the famous V11 cough which I have adjusted out with a Power Commander. The bike runs great, up to 53mpg, but will not idle relaibly below 1200 rpm when it is hot. It hunts between 700 and 1200 rpm for a bit and then cuts out. It idles perfectly when cold. The PC has been adjusted to give 2% more mixture at 10% throttle and 2500rpm. I have checked the following: - TPS, replaced in last 5000 miles and set up at 150mv on the idle stop - throttle bodies balanced at 3000 rpm to within 2% pressure and the allowed 7% at idle - iridium plugs are 3000 miles old - regulator has recently been replaced and earthed out to the battery - ECU and fuel pump relay connections and relays checked and relays changed - body rubbers appear to be airtight - air filter is a k&N clone in the standard airbox and was cleaned 3000 miles ago I haven't checked the oil temp sensor, air sensor or fuel pressure regulator within the last 6000 miles, but I did at the last service with a dieagnostic kit. The problem has gradually developed over the last 3000 miles. I also seem to have to keep winding the idle stop further and further in to keep it idling. Any ideas? Cheers Guzz

Hi you can use almost any filter frfom a injection engine. This is avery simple injection setup and so long as the filter is 10 micron or better and you can connect it to the fuel tubing from the pump you won't have nay problems. Just make sure that you buy one with the raised ring on each connection, that way you can be sure that the pipes won't blow off somewhere awkward. Bear in mind there's 50 psi of pressure on those connections. Why Guzzi use hose clips to secure the pipes to the filter is beyond me when good proprietary clip on connections eg John Guest are available for pennies. If you can't get one with raised lips on the connections just squash the ends slightly to splay them. Mine was off a Vauxhall Astra which I just had lying around in the garage, it's been good for 30k and frankly if my car was typical even at 60k there was no discernable difference between the flow through a new one and the old one. Economically yours Guzz

No signs of wear after 80K Guzz

Yeah I think you'll have to remove the pork chop side plates, the swingarm, driveshaft, etc. Just make sure you mark the threads on the side plates for when you put it back together. Theres another recent thread on pork chop removal and you should check that out, it will help you alot. Hi having done this, you need only to remove swing arm and drive shaft. MAKE SURE ALL IS CLEAM BEFORE YOU HOOK OUT THE SEAL. As suggetsed make sure you take note of the setting of the screw in pins for the swingarm, but frankly it's not critical. Cheers Guzz

Hi it's not critical, I just make sue mine are very tight as they have been known to lossen off......

Hi Bob I'm in the UK but on the basis that if John has done one, then the next one might be easier....Could you give me please a contact email or number? How much did that beauty cost? Cheers Jon