Mike Stewart

The measurement should be done at a tangent to the arc that the wheel axle describes on the swinging arm. Methinks measuring at the reflector won't achieve this. Kiwi, Knowledge comes with age! Happy Birthday! Mike

I think the answer is that more weight is put over the rear wheel than the front with rider aboard. This would cause the the rear of the bike to travel more at the rear fender and give you a higher measurement. There is also the compression of the tire when measuring from the ground. I am glad you are in the ball park, now go out and ride! Mike

I know, I usually use a yard stick! Mike

Nah, you ain't old, I am only going on 23! My birthday is on the 16th....... Mike

Captain, While I can loft my front wheel on my Aprilia from a stop and I have lofted the front wheel off the ground on my Rosso going uphill on tight twisty roads, I must admit that the avatar is not me. The picture of the gentleman in the air is on a Raceco prepared bike in action. Yes, it does raise the hair on the back of my neck! Take the measurements so we will be on the same page. We can go on from there. A picture says a million words... By the way, I will be 47 in January! Mike

humm, LE came up with 1.05kg. on my V11Sport and I weigh in at 200 lbs. This was the same weight springs Al got when he resprung his Ohlins and he is at 200 lbs also. Mike

I, I, Captain, The stock Sach travel is 60mm., so the total rear travel is 120mm. I believe the spec. is 128mm. but not on my 2000 V11Sport. I think you should recheck your sag a different way. By using your method, measuring at the rear fender may throw off the measurements. I always measure at the rear axle, which is where the swing arm travel is at. I use a piece of masking tape and install it level to the ground on the rear tail section. The tape measure should be at 90 degrees from the ground. Check the bike with the rear wheel off the ground. Call this measurement A. Next with the bike on the ground and no rider, balance the bike and take another measurement. This is measurement B. Subtract measurement B for A and this will be your static measurement. Now get on the bike with riding gear and take another measurement. This is measurement C. with rider. Now subtract measurement C form A and this is your rider sag. Take these measurements and lets talk. Mike

Well I just rechecked Doc Wongs web page and the dinner was tonight. Oh well, lets aim for next month Dec 8th. for dinner. Any ideas on a Christmas bash for Guzzi's in the bay area? I am game, lets get some inputs for dates! Mike

Now I am really confused! Maybe one too many cocktails... Today is the 10th and tomorrow is the 2nd Tuesday of the month which is the 11th. So which day am is it? Mike

Yep, Big Cojones! Mike

I found this method of suspension tuning on the Factory Pro site, just another wrench to throw in to get everyone confused! Basic rules for suspension tuning A primary issue with springs, front and rear, is to simply spring the ends so that when you push down on the footpegs (where most of your weight is when you aggressively corner). Both ends of the bike NEED to go up and down exactly evenly, both in travel and rate. That's without damping! General order: Select a rear spring that will just bottom out over your harshest bump that you are riding on with "normal" sag. Soften it up till it just bottoms out, then tighten preload 1/4. Check the sag and see if it's in general range of 35mm to 20mm. That's with no compression damping. Select front fork springs that allow the front end and the rear end to travel equally and evenly when you bounce on the footpegs (helps to have someone hold the bike upright). That's after you have set the rear spring as in the above step. That's with no compression damping. Rear rebound: Use just barely enough to prevent wallowing in high speed sweepers. Front rebound: Use just enough rebound to keep the front end from wallowing and drifting wide when exiting low speed corners at full throttle. Compression damping: The goal is to use as little as possible. Use the proper, perhaps heavier than stock spring to do the major work during non-braking mode riding. Use compression damping to trim if necessary and only if required. Excessive dive under braking: Use increased oil level to firm the front end under hard braking. 5mm is a significant change in modern forks. Goals are to always use the softest rear spring that works within "sag" range limit. Use just enough rebound damping to control the springs. Use as little compression damping as possible and only when required. Not everybody has a supply of alternate fork and shock springs, so you will probably have to improvise and use a bit of extra preload or a bit more compression damping to compensate for too soft of a spring. All in all, there is nothing like heeling a bike over in a 120mph sweeper with a sharp edged bump in the middle of it and knowing that you can back of just a bit over the bump, get bounced in the air and calmly land heeled over, in control, straight and unperturbed and remain at highest possible speed with no fuss or muss. That just doesn't happen if the springs aren't perfectly matched! Cheers! Marc Remember! These are hints only. You are responsible for whatever you do with this information. If you use this information and it helps your application, contact Factory Pro with results. Thanks, Marc Mike --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I had my Sach rear shock revalved and resprung by LE earlier this year. The cost was about $380. dollars. This included the spring, the new shock head (which was needed to install a new shaft seal) and revalving. I was not compleatly happy with the revalve job and I am going to send it back to have the high speed dampening relaxed some. The ride is ok if riding two up or have the bike fully loaded with camping stuff. But riding solo with the correct spring sag, the bike just does not feel compliant and the rear end will send you sailing over the bars when an abrupt bump is hit. I thought I had this problem figured out last week untill I hit a good abrupt bump and my butt and feet were airborn for a few seconds. Man, what would of happened if I was going around a high speed sweeper? Anyway I might have the LE shock up for sale after I have it revalved again. Any takers

Agreed, , 1 7/8" is alot of sag for the rear suspension. What is your body weight? The max I will run in the rear is 1.5" and have gone down to 1" of sag with rider. What is your static sag with out rider? Both sag measurements are needed to tell if your spring is the correct weight. It is also better to error on a slightly soft spring than to error toward a heaver spring rate. Don't ask me how I know! Mike

Al, Just saw these on ebay, kinda like the new Mille mirrors you wanted to try out. I wonder what the reserve price is? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=35603 Mike

Well, you could go with MG cycles and order the Hepco-Becker bags and mounts which will leave your wallet $750. dollars lighter. But of course you get what you pay for. The Hepco-Becker bags are water tight, have sturdy racks and lock from the outside. Go figure! Mike

I have used both Aftershock and LE for fork repair. I still am not happy with the LE revalve/respring for my 00 V11Sport. Another friend of mine also dislikes his forks after the LE treatment, even after he had them redone a second time. So be careful when making a decision about revalving. Aftershock raised my wifes fork back to the stock length and serviced them for really cheap and they seem to work well. Todd (RacerX) had a set of V11 forks reworked and they are really plush. I believe he sent them back east somewhere to have them worked on (Computrack)? Mike

I am currently running a higher watt bulb than what the factory put in (I wonder why the relays don't last long). My problem is high beam works great but with oncoming traffic, it is hard to use. The low beam just does not put out enough light and a wider beam would be nice in the dark twisties. It is hard to look far into the turn when your light is pointed straight. Adding another pair of lights seems like the best solution. I will be searching for a set at the bike show this weekend! Mike

Al, The chrome piece in your picture is the bolt, the more gold color piece in the center of the chrome piece is the plastic plug that hides the allen bolt hole. This is the piece that comes out, just use a small screw driver or pick and gently work it out. You will most likely end up with scratches in the chrome piece. Mike

Al, I think you will find that the hole ontop of the triple trees too small for your project. There is a small cover/plug (3/8 of an inch) that you need to pry out with a small screwdriver. It covers a 10mm. or so allen bolt that tightens the steering head. Dont pry on the chrome like cover that is over an inch in diameter, that would be the bolt. Mike

Al, I just checked the fit and the Ohlin Millie R steering dampner has a stroke of 60mm. The Bitubo has about 70mm. so no dice. The shaft mounting also takes a 6mm. bolt and the Bitubo takes a 8mm. bolt. I still think that an adjustable Ohlins steering dampener (70 to 80mm) will fit within the Rosso fairing. Some machine work to the spacers will have to be done, but I am willing to try. Mike

Well, I have put it off as long as I could. I need to add more lighting to my commuter bike since daylight savings went into effect. Most of my ride to work is now in the dark and I could use more lighting to make things safer for my 40 something eyes. So has anyone out there found a good pair of additional lights they have added to their Guzzi for a wider light pattern ? And can the Guzzi alternator handle it? Thanks, 40 something Mike

Captain, Before doing anything, when was the last valve adjustment? This is the most overlooked adjustment on any engine with an adjustable valve train. It effects engine compression,cylinder balance and even the fuel mixture. They all work hand in hand. The valve adjustment in my book is the starting point for any Guzzi driveability issue. Heck, why not ride down to the Bay Area and I will check it out for you! Just a thought, Mike

I have not heard of the shift spring breaking on a 2000 V11. I have had my linkage come loose at both ends of shift linkage but I can't see it causing a hard shifting issue. But when my 2000 was at the shop for the trans oil leak repair, it did get stuck in 3rd gear and would not come out. Turned out 3rd gear came apart and took out every gear in the transmission. 3.5 months later, I had my bike back. I hope your transmission does not have this problem. Mike

Don't get me started! , My 2000 Sport has been in the shop three times for getting the trans leak fixed and I still have a leak. Now the warrantee has expired. I guess I will hang out with the leaking Harleys. Mike

Emry, I also had lived in Castro Valley, Great town! I now live on the other end of Redwood Road just twelve miles of very tight twisting roads away. Mike