sculler2x

I replaced the high pressure fuel lines on my V11 and now I have a fuel leak and it is not the lines or clamps. When it is cool fuel comes out where the T fitting goes into the injector. Any ideas on how to stop this?

I sure did. 8 gage wire to starter motor bolt. 4 gage wire from starter motor bolt to battery.

I have the Elecrtosport ESR-515

I measured 700 micro amps to the regulator and 7 microamps to the computer. This is hardly enough to warrent putting in a relay. For long term storage just disconnect the battery. An Odyssey is good for 2 years on the shelf.

Here is how I ended up improving things. I ran an 8 gage wire from the regulator + to a max fuse block. I connected the battery + and the other + lines to the fuse block as seen in the next photo. I ran an 8 gage wire from the case of the regulator to the starter motor bolt where the battery - also connects to the starter motor. Notice that I put the battery line as close to the case as possible. The bike starts on the second compression stroke and the rest of the electrical gremlins have gone away. The other thing that helps a lot is putting contact grease on all connectors. This prevents fretting corrosion as well as excluding moisture and oxidation.

I am assuming you ran the big fat wire from the negative terminal on the battery to the starter motor bolt ? Thanks !! Yes, and I carried this one step further by running a 4 gage wire from the battery+ to the starter motor solenoid. My next upgrade will be running an 8 gage wire from the regulator - to the bolt of the starter motor. You can get marine wire and crimp on lugs at West Marine for example. The wiring on our bikes is way undersized.

I ran a big fat wire from the battery to the bolt that holds the starter motor. I made sure the bolt and case were very clean. I used anti-seize compound to keep out moisture and prevent electro-corrosion. This made a huge improvement in starting the engine. It is the same trick I, and many others, have used on their BMW twins.

You should have clearance between the pushrod and the rocker arm. If they never lose contact they are way too tight. As things warm up and expand the clearance will go down but never close up completely.

I had this problem and the solution turned out to be valve adjustment. There was zero clearance on the exhaust side and .005" on the intake. Everybody should check their valve clearance if they have the stumbeling problem.

I would like one.

I have one and don't like having to undoo the tank mounting bolt to remove it. Is there an alternate method of securing it at the back?

What can I do to keep moisture from getting in to my head light. Not driving in the rain is a poor solution. I went for a ride in light rain on Sunday and the lense was covered with droplets on the inside.