John Neeson

Got it! Thanks to all who responded. Cheers John

... but without success

Hi Everyone. I am currently stripping my 1997 Sport 1100i engine. I am not sure how to remove the ring gear and clutch. I bought a clutch centering/compression tool. My understanding is that bolt is supposed to screw into the end of the crankshaft. However there is no threaded hole to screw into. Have I misunderstood something? I tried to find a video clip of this tool being used

That's the one! I found something on Amazon that should do it. Thanks to all who responded.

Should have made it clearer. Problem is not the banjo, but the other end where it fits on to the cylinder head. (I have the engine on the bench)

Hello All, Does anyone know how to remove the cylinder head oil feed.(1100 engine). There is not enough clearance between the bolt and the fins to get a spanner on it.

I replaced mine with Honda CBR600F4 mirrors as suggested here: https://www.motorcyclelife.eu/bikes/past-projects/moto-guzzi-sport-1100i/ They are much better than the originals.

Thanks for the tip Scud. I had a look online but it does not appear to be available in the UK.

Hello All. I have my 1100 engine on the bench ready for a new paint job. My plan was to strip the cases using paint stripper, then remove heads, barrels, timing cover and have them blasted and painted separately. I tried using Nitromors, but it had no effect. Even tried wrapping it in cling film and leaving it on overnight. Does anyone know of a paint stripper that actually works? If I can't solve this, my options are: 1- Paint over existing finish - This seems risky as I will not know if it is going to work until I have the bike completely re-assembled and running. 2- Strip out the cases and have them blasted as well. - Seems like a lot more work + numerous special tools required. Interested to hear about other's experiences of painting the engine

Update: Passed the MOT! Only after the tester masked off part of the lens with black tape. Maybe the C1 headlamp was not from a UK bike after all. Would still like to do more permanent fix. Maybe a project for the winter.

AFAIK its from a UK bike. A black bin liner will be more useful if it is as bad as the original.

I bought the C1 headlamp from ebay. It is NOT the same as the Guzzi part, however it is similar enough to fit. One significant difference - I hope- is the bulb orientation. I have booked an MOT on Wednesday. Fingers crossed! Edit: Tried to post a picture. No luck!

Liked your idea about a projector conversion. Have you scoped out the work involved yet? Alternatively, this round lamp conversion looks good - if you are good at moulding GRP.

Thanks for the info. I had heard that the BMW C1 headlamp was the same. There is one for sale on ebay right now, however it does not have the same part number. It is hard to discern the full text from the picture, but it is something like "tri.o.m 2080..." I have to agree with your assessment: is indeed utter crap! If I can't resolve this problem, I might just remove it completeley and get a daylight MOT! I would hardly notice the difference as I only use the bike during the summer months.

Now that I am considering all possibilities... Is the correct headlamp fitted? The lens has the following markings: "tri.o.m 40034". Could someone (with a UK model) confirm that is correct? thanks

There is a locating tab on the bulb that aligns with a slot in the housing, so it can only be fitted in the correct position. It is possible that it is the wrong bulb.. I will order a new one and see if it makes any difference. The lower edge of the lamp is already hard against the fairing cut out, so it cannot be tilted down any further.

Hi Everyone, My 1997 Sport Injection is due its annual MOT test. Every year I get the same comment from the tester (sometimes followed by a fail certificate): The headlamp beam is too high! In spite of the fact that it is set to point as low as is possible. In fact the bottom edge of the headlamp is hard against the fairing! The only change that I have made since buying the bike, is to drop the yokes so that the fork sliders are 10mm above the yokes - which according to my workshop manual is how they should be. This should have improved the headlamp aim. Also running a 160/60 rear tyre instead of the recommended 160/70. The headlamp bulb is marked:"Osram Bilux 64193 Germany 12V 60/55W". I cannot figure out what the problem is. Has anyone out there had a similar problem with this bike?

I am going to the Bikers classic at Spa Francorchamps. Can anyone recommend some good roads on the way from the Amsterdam Ferry terminal (IJmuiden).Ideally want to avoid large towns and Autoroutes. Time should not be to much of a problem. Leaving IJMuiden at 9AM, plan to arrive in Spa around 5PM. Look forward to hearing your suggestions. Thanks

Phil, I was not able to find a supplier for the bushes. wpsuspension.co.uk cannot get them, and do not know of any other sources who can. As it turned out, my bushes did not need to be replaced this time. However that only puts off the problem until next time... Richard, I had a look on ebay, but I could not see any 40mm bushes. Could you possibly post the name of the vendor? thanks

Hello, I need replace the fork seals on my 1997 Sport Injection (WP 40mm USD forks). Motion Pro do not appear to have a 40mm driver in their range. The alternatives I've found so far are : Laser 4878 Motorcycle Fork Seal Driver 35-50mm and ProBike 40mm. Anyone out there with experience of these tools who could make a recommendation? Also planned to buy new bushes in case they need replaced. My usual supplier (Moto Mecca) can't get them anymore! Anyone know where to buy (obsolete) WP fork spares? Thanks

You need a resistor in series with your LED. The voltage across the LED is around 2V - look at the the datasheet for your LED to find the exact value. That means your resistor has to drop the remaining 10V. Choose a value suitable for the current that the LED requires - again see the datasheet. For example if your LED needs 20mA, then the resistance = V/I = 10V/20mA = 500 ohms. I think that the nearest preferred value is 470 ohms, which is close enough.

I was almost certain that no special procedure was required, but it seemed like too much of a coincidence that I have two standard EPROMs that do not work. I recall now that the chip I bought from Moto Mecca was embedded in a block of polystyrene foam when it arrived. About the worst material you could think of for this purpose. Either its blown, or they just forgot to program it: either way I will ask them to sort it out. Thanks to all who responded

Hello Everyone, Its MOT test time again, so I must remove the Moto Arbo pipes and the Raceco chip and refit the standard items to my 1997 Sport Injection. After changing the chip, I turned on the ignition and the fuel pump ran continuously. It did NOT time out as it should have done. I turned the ignition off, then on again. This time the fuel pump did not run at all. Needless to say, the engine would not start. I refitted the Raceco chip to check that the ECU was still OK: It worked perfectly. Its no real hardship to go for the MOT test with the Raceco chip and standard pipes, but I would really like to run the bike as standard. My question: Is there some special procedure that has to be done when changing to a different chip? That is, does the ECU memorize the EPROM checksum and therefore interprets a different checksum as a failure. The 'standard' chip was bought last year from Moto Mecca, but since it did not arrive in time for the test it has never been used. I only bought it because the one supplied with the bike did not work! In fact it behaved in the same way as the replacement. The only information I have is the label on the chip "KF-KIT1". Unfortunately I do not have an EPROM programmer, so I can't verify that it has been programmed.

Swapping the relays might not be such a good idea Looking down from above, the sockets the relay pins are numbered: ---3--- ---5--- 1--4--2 On my bike, the Fuel pump relay socket is wired differently from the other three: It has Pin 2 wired to +12V, and the others have Pin 1 wired to +12V. I do not know if it left the factory this way or it was modified later on. Also, the 3 other relays are polarised Bosch types (built in diode). The faulty fuel pump relay was a non-polarised Siemens. The net result was that it was not possible to try one of the others (say the Headlamp relay) in the Fuel Pump relay socket: If you did, you would have connected +12V to an ECU output via a diode. I don't think the ECU would like that. Naturally, if all your relays are non-polarised you can swap relays without any problem If you wan't to test your fuel pump, briefly short out pins 3 and 5 on the socket (with the relay removed) and you should hear the pump running.

A dirty fuel filter would not prevent the fuel pump from running. I had the same problem with my Sport Injection. It was caused by a relay failure - fuel pump relay is second from the front of the bike. It first appeared as an intermittent failure, but soon failed completely.