bikelee

Or you could go here.... :http://www.agostinimandello.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/Albero_di_trasmi_50811eb5c12e4.jpg Leon

Nice job !! Real slick. Leon

I went with the 180/55 zr17. Seems to work great ! Leon

I just went with the Dunlop Q3s. I love them. Nice and sticky. Great in the corners and very stable coming out of the turns. I just put them on so won't know how long they will last but I think it won't be long as you know, sticky means go away quick. I figured for $200 shipped and no tax for the set ( I mount my own tires as the shops around here too often scratch the rims ) , I would give them a try. I'll let you know how I make out. Leon

I used these:http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html. I know they are expensive but the frustration they save is worth it to me. Plumbed them into the existing fuel lines so I NEVER have to f*ck with those plastic connectors again. I hate those things. I'm always afraid I'm gonna break one off ! Good luck.

That thing must have a lovely sound !! Holy crap !! Beautiful machine. WOW

I do not think this will work with my 03 Rossa. What do you guys think ?

I'd pay $250 US dollars for complete stand with all mounting hardware and shipping included.

I finally fixed the forks !! Yea ! It was a pain in the ass but i finally got them done. I bought the Motion Pro seal install tool, Ohlins fork oil and a seal and wiper kit from Kyle Racing. Nice folks ! Took me most of a Saturday afternnoon. These videos from Youtube were a big help: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX7mASNcDVg. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADRNjEnGPvI. The forks in this video are very similar to the ones used on the Rossa, Scura and some Sport models. Just some observations from my experience. I know they are Ohlins forks but do not be intimidated. You do not need any Ohlins special tools. Just take your time, have a clean, uncluttered work area. If I can do this anybody can. Watch the videos ! I know the they are long but contain a lot of good info. I could not have done this without them. Gave me a lot of confidence. Have a pin wrench handy. Got mine at Amazon.com Get the motion Pro seal installer. Makes the job much easier. When installing the seals, heat the fork tube to about 150 degrees F. Makes the installation a little easier. (same thing when removing the old seals. Use a little heat ). Before working on the forks, while they are still in the triple trees, loosen the fork caps with a pin wrench. Then when they are off the bike, you can spin them off easily. I made a simple wooden vise (it is shown in the video ) to hold the forks when in a regular vise to avoid scaring or distorting the tubes. As I like the action of my forks, I measured the amount of fluid that came out of 1 fork and put the same amount of new fluid back in. Saves a lot of trying to figure out oil height etc. Hope this helps someone else. Everyone have a safe and happy Thanksgiving. Any questions, let me know. I am by no means an "expert". But I will try to help if i can. Leon

I need new brake pads for the front of my 03 Rossa. My left front fork seal got so bad I believe oil got on the pads. ( I'm in the process of repairing the seals now. I'm gonna replace the seals in BOTH forks even though only the left is leaking. I think it is just a matter of time till the right one starts leaking also. A mechanic I talked to at Kyle Racing said it is just good practice to fix both forks now. )Plus they are kinda worn anyways. What part number do I need ! I'm a little confused. I guess I must be gettin' old. Thanks for any help. Leon

I love my carbon fiber Fast By Ferrachi slip ons. They sound fabulous, throaty but not obnoxious. Docc's heard them and he says they sound like a fine running P-51 Mustang.

I'm going to the show in NYC in about a month. I go every year and have a great time. Hit a bar or 2 after the show. Take the train home. I'll try to take some pics and maybe give a little report. If you go to this show and buy tickets online put "twitter14" in the promo code box and save $4.50 on the ticket price. Worked for me last week. Maybe I'll see you at the show.This offer expires 2/16/2014. Ride safe !

I'm gonna put my 03 Lemans away for the winter. I was looking at the owners manual and one of the recommended things to do is put some 30w oil in the cylinders. Should I do this or is it overkill ? I already changed the oil in the engine, trans and rear end. I'm gonna drain the fuel in the gas tank (also per the manual), put some corrosion protection on the exposed metal parts, and some fresh dryer sheets under the seat, gas tank and fairing to keep mice away. (When I first got the bike, I found a mouse nest in the air cleaner box !). I put some metal screens over the intake snorkels as added protection. Anything else I should do ? Thanks for any advice !!

Can I safely run a Gerbings microwire heated liner, gloves and heated socks without over taxing the electrical system ? Thanks !!

These came in 3 days !! Thanks, Dan !

Just noticed the fork seals are leaking on my Rossa's Ohlins. Easy fix ? Bike has 8700 miles and is 10 years old. I guess sh?t happens. I did replace the fork oil last February so the internals are not foreign to me. Are these forks prone to leakage ? Anyone ever fix these before ? Does anybody have any tips or tricks to fixing these. Any help would be appreciated. I just had major surgery on my abdomen last month, so it may be awhile till I can tackle this. I want to save some money as I just had a clutch replaced and an oil leak in the tranny fixed and it was big bucks. I think I can fix these seals my self as long as no expensive special tools are needed. Thanks guys. Leon

I want to carry some spare relays in my 2003 Rossa. Are all the relays the same ? Where should i purchase them ? The bike is running well, I just want to carry some spare ones just in case. I know they fail at the worst possible time. Thanks, Leon.

Just thought I would run this by you guys. About once or twice a ride, the trans won't downshift. I NEVER force it to. Seems I have to come to a complete stop, then by working the clutch and pushing down on the shift lever I can get it to downshift. When I take off and continue for the rest of the ride i do not have a problem. I think maybe that time it won't downshift is because I am not pushing down on the lever enough and it gets hung up. Any thoughts ? Also it seems I have a trans leak where the front of the drive shaft attaches to the output spline of the trans. Is this a common spot for a leak. Can this be fixed with the trans where it is or does the trans have to come out. This bike is trying my patience. I love Guzzis but man they are a lot of work to keep running and not leaking. Thanks Leon.

I'm taking the rear wheel off of my 2003 LeMans Rossa to do a tire change. While I have the wheel off I'm gonna check the wheel bearings and the rear brake caliper pistons for crud on them. Anything else I should check ? Thanks !!

I just want to thank everybody with helping me with this whole Throttle Synch episode. Bike is running great and idles fairly consistently now. It pulls nice and no stutter at 3500-4000 RPM. You guys are the best !! Hope to see ya on the road. Leon

OK ! Docc. Sorry about the wait, but I finally took the Rossa out after the Throttle Body Synch and what a difference ! We banished the spit and hesitation at 3500-4000 RPM and I can roll on the throttle and now just smooth roll on power. I looked down to see if this was same bike I rode before the synch. Man what difference ! The leaking from the valve covers appear to be stopped also. I used the gaskets from the REAL Gasket Co. and they seem to have worked. I also took your advice about the rear drive oil and about 10-20 cc came out. Not a huge amount but maybe enough to cause a leak down the road. There is one minus. The idle seems not want to be consistent. Sometimes it wants to be at 800 RPM and then 1200 RPM. I'm gonna check all the linkages and the throttle cable for stickiness or whatever. When I first started it up from stone cold it would barely idle( after the synch) I opened the idle air screws but nothing changed so I turned the idle screw on the left hand throttle body and raised it to 1200 but when the engine got warmed up It went to 1500 and then I lowered it to again to 1200. I'll see what happens the next time I ride it. The next time I ride it, it will be stone cold. If the idle is too low AFTER it warms up, what should I do ? Thanks !! Leon

I am pumped ! I'm gonna use that star method to tighten the valve covers and try to hopefully stop the leaks. i guess we will see what happens. I'll post tomorrow.

Hey docc. After 3 beers I got the paint off of ALL the screws we need to mess with. The right throttle body " choke" screw is loosened. I was FINALLY able to get the TPS screws loosened ( there was some corrosion on them ) and was able to get the 150MV reading on the TPS !! I have the manometer ready to go. I made double sure there are NO leaks at any of the connections. dooc i really appreciate you helping me on this. It's giving me a lot of confidence that this task is gonna get done right. Please call me tomorrow if you can. You name the time. I'm really looking forward to working with you. Leon

SORRY ABOUT ALL THE CAPS BUT MY HEAD IS EXPLODING. I'M SIPPING A BEER TO CHILL OUT. Hello all ! I'm trying to do the Throttle Synch Procedure on my 2003 LeMans Rossa from the "TPS Setup and Throttle Balance Tuning" by dlaing and I am having a hell of a time and getting frustrated. YES I DID ADJUST THE VALVES FIRST. The TPS reading is 180MV. Which way do i turn the TPS to REDUCE the voltage. I can't loosen the TPS screws for the life of me. Why are they so f*cking tight and full of paint ? I am using a Torx number 20 bit and it just wants to spin out and I am afraid it is gonna strip out. AM I USING THE RIGHT TYPE TOOL AND OR SIZE ? IT SAYS TO Disconnect the synchronization rod at the ball joint on the right side (the side with the TPS sensor),( I DID THIS). back off the right throttle idle screw using a 2.5mm hex key, and back off the "choke" cam (make sure the choke cable permits full retraction of the cam (it didn't on my bike). I DID THIS BUT IN GUZZIOLOGY IT SAYS TO TAKE THE PLATE OUT TO MAKE SURE YOU GET FULL RETRACTION, BUT MY PLATE WILL NOT COME OUT. HOW IMPORTANT IS THIS ? IS THIS MESSING UP MT TPS READING ? Turn on the ignition key, but do not start the bike. Measure the voltage difference between the two outer wires of the TPS. If the voltage is not 150 mV ±5 mV, then loosen the TPS clamp screws and gently rotate it as required. Be careful not to force it against the TPS’s internal stop in the direction of reducing the voltage, which could damage it. Plus or minus 5 mV can be obtained with a little effort. To do the next step, you will need to connect a vacuum manometer (e.g. mercury stick) to each of the two ports on the intake fittings next to the cylinder head. These are normally connected together with a hose, which is to be temporarily disconnected. (I BOUGHT A NEW MANOMETER) Next, close both air bypass screws, reconnect the synchronization rod, but keep the right throttle idle screw backed off to put the connecting rod in tension, removing any backlash. Start the engine and balance the throttle body vacuums at idle using the synchronization rod adjustment. Screw in the left throttle idle screw if the idle is too low to maintain. Do not use the choke for this purpose, because that would put the connecting rod in compression, introducing backlash, causing the throttle bodies to go out of balance. Now adjust the left idle screw for a TPS reading of .521 volts. + - .005 (corresponding to 3.5 degrees physical opening, as read by the optional diagnostic software). This accuracy can be obtained with a little effort. (Some riders have been known to also subsequently physically readjust the TPS (not the idle screw) to lean or richen the entire throttle range. However, loosening its screws and offsetting the TPS to a higher voltage, e.g. .539, will fool the ECU into adding more fuel, but it will also fool the ignition timing table. See also the note at the bottom under “Options”) Next open both air bypass screws to obtain the idle RPM at 1100 to 1200 while maintaining balance. Air bypass screws should be open 1/2 turn or more. If not, back off the idle screw to reduce the TPS voltage reading in steps of 15 mv and open the air bypass screws to compensate until they are opened 1/2 turn or more. Check balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM as follows: A When checking balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM, make any fine correction needed using the synchronization rod adjustment, then: B. Check balance at idle RPM. If OK, go to step C, if not, rebalance at idle using the air bypass screws, and go back to step A. C. Disconnect the voltmeter and manometers. Replace the hose connecting the two intakes. That completes the procedure. Once this procedure is completed successfully, future minor changes in idle speed can be made simply by adjusting the left throttle idle screw. Since the throttle bodies have been balanced, backlash between them has been eliminated, and air bypass screws have been properly adjusted to maintain balance at idle, these should be stable for many miles. IF SOMEONE WANTS TO CALL ME OR PERMIT ME TO CALL THEM I REALLY NEED HELP. THANKS, LEON. 518 438 3015. I HOPE THIS ALL MAKES SOME SENSE.

Hello all. I just adjusted the valves on my 2003 V11 LeMans. I cleaned all gasket surfaces squeaky clean, installed new gaskets and the now the covers leak. Any suggestions on how to stop it from leaking ? Thanks !!