mznyc

If your tune up adjustments are correct and good,I would inspect for an air leak.All connections at headers,X-over fore and aft and the TB boots.I would say nearly 50% of the bikes that have these symptoms show the boots to be bad. Plugs look good,in the normal range.

Thanks for the letting us know Jim, May you have endless serpentine roads before you Bill! Rest in Peace

Stu You can get the spring at any dealer.MI should have it.The arm may not be in stock,and I have found if not,it can be weeks to get it.The arm isn't necessary to replace,just something you have to consider as pulling the cover is not a big deal but tedious.Ive had it off several times and now can get in there in about 20-25 mins. Lotta good info here if you havent read it yet, http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872&st=0 BFG's effort has helped many here on the site. Also a list of what has to come off Put bike in Neutral Disconnect battery Take off shock remote Take off starter cover Dump trans box fluid save it if it's recent,replace if it been more than a couple seasons Take off connections to starter Disconnect neutral switch Remove starter Disconnect gear change linkage Remove the 11?! bolts that hold on cover,may have to tap off with a rubber mallet and yer in Take note of the position of the selection gears there should be two indents to indicate alignment Yours may have extra bracing that Guzzi added later,mine doesn't

Yup sounds like the pawl spring. If the pawl hasn't been replaced with the updated one you may want to consider doing it while in there,The boss on the original one was believed to be incorrectly sized causing the spring to break.They're about $70.00 but may save you several hrs of labor down the road by replacing while the cover is off.Several people have reported having springs break more than once and most of them didnt replace pawl arm.2-3 hrs of my life is defiantly worth $70. FWIW

Yikes 55K over and they pull your license? That's harsh,probably why you have much better drivers in Europe(well maybe not Italy,)than US,actual consequences when you break the law. A privilege not a right. Sorry to hear this Jaap,hope you can sort this out soon.Maybe a good time to take advantage of any maintenance or issues you might have been neglecting?

So, does everyone who runs a PCIII disconnect it every time they set the TB's and TPS? From what I've read here, this balancing needs to be done fairly often, every 2 years or so. Seems like you would want to have the bike running on the fuel map that has been "tuned" to work with the existing components. AFAIK, I don't think you need to disconnect the PC3 in order to balance the TB's and set the TPS. I would set everything how you plan on running it. I have a VDST on order, and it should arrive soon, then I'll figure out how to use it to set the TPS. I'm on the south side of Milwaukee, and you're more than welcome to come down and use it anytime. I'll be gone this week (Lake Michigan circle tour), but should be back by the weekend. I also have carb sticks for the TB balance. PM me offline if you're interested. Info on the VDST here: http://forum.guzzitech.com/component/hikashop/product/15-tr-vdst-diagnostics/category_pathway-11.html Ken You dont HAVE to disconnect the PC.Never said that,it just helps simplify finding where the problem is.Is it the TB's out of balance?,and air leak?,an improper map? or something else?I am not an expert,but I have done a lot of reading here about PC 3's and the easiest way to isolate a problem is to eliminate a variable(PC in this case).Easy to do and restore.The VDST is great to have an Im considering investing in one myself,so if you can get access to it give er a shot.Id be interested in what you find

The PC 111 does not change the ECU.It only fools it into doin what you want it to do .If you unplug it and restore stock connections you will be in stock set-up.Do the TPS balance and you should have a good running vehicle unless you have another problem,but at this point you eliminate the PC and it's map.

Hi Velloguzzi This is from our dearly departed(of the forum not the earth)Greg Field.He found the Mistral gave the most midrange and worked with the center stand. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=quick_search&search_sort_by=date&search_sort_order=desc&search_term=Tale+of+crossovers&search_filter_app[forums]=1&st=75 As far as hiccuping you would probably be better off starting by setting your PC to a O map or disconnecting it all together ,do the TPS and balance first,then re-install PC with correct map.Otherwise you and many others have chased their tail trying to get it right. You checked all exhaust and TB boot connections? Michael

I spent 5 days in the middle of nowhere Tennessee cause I ignored intermittent starting problems for months.Finally died on a Friday night of a holiday weekend.Bad reg,and got home almost a week late. Was in Skye in March and there's no way Id want to be riding a bike in a remote Glen in bad weather,and no cell service if I had any doubt.If your not a 100% sure you got it,,...well,you know,,.... Roy will guide you the right way

OK got an update.Heard from Peter and he's surprised as he took this hub out of a Griso .Doesnt look like the Griso hub from the Stein-Dinse site.Maybe a difference between 4 to 8v,? It's weird that my original Scura single plate hub doesnt look like PR's single plate hub(left one in his picture)maybe from an older 5 speed single plater? Either way the hub I have is unusable. Hopefully get this sorted soon as the project stands still until I get correct one.

Haydn I couldn't find the six speed hub on the SD website, do you have a link? Do we think all 6 speed pre CARC bikes use this hub? Single/ twin plate the same?

You may be right Keith the deep spline has triangular shaped splines ,which mine has.

Boy it sure looks like the 5-speed shallow spline gu14081811-Z and my original looks exactly like the 6-speed gu04211600.I'll pass that info along to Pete @ Reboot. Thanks!

Dont think Peter misunderstood ,from email, "i have a 10 spring clutch available (pictured still on an engine) which i would suggest is better for the Scura than an 8 spring one as it is lighter " Will probably hear from him today or Monday. Pete R ,thanks again for looking into this,much appreciated ,....

He,he,,.....no.Taking Peter's word for it.He has a good reputation so assume it's right but anyone can make a mistake.That's what Im trying to get , opinions as to what people think by seeing the pic so I can figure this out with Peter.I have emailed him with the pics so hopefully he's not on one of those Euro 2 month holidays. He's usually pretty good at gettin back to me,so we'll see what he says.I'll ask if he thinks if I got a 5 speed by accident.

More than generous offer. Will do,virtual beer to you!

Hey Pete, Thats what this whole project is, putting in a twin-plater not a single.A used low mileage from Peter at Reboot.The hub looks like it's almost new,but since it doesnt fit its useless.Got an email in to Pete to see what he says.Another member did the same swap with same parts from Pete with no problems but he didnt change the hub as it was fine according to him.If he had tried we would have known there was a problem.The single plater is a new RAM aftermarket that Richard100 gave me a deal on,but decided to go to the 2on the advice of yours,Mike Wilson and others ,by the way glad I did as Im learning a lot as I go.Just put pics in so you could see internals as you suspected my original clutch as changed or different from what it should be. The new hub(Griso) is the ones on the left in the first two pics and on the right in the last one. Michael

Well I ran into a problem. The new(used 08 Griso) hub Reboot sent me is not the same ID.Internal splines are much smaller and will not match input shaft to the transmission. Thoughts before I contact Peter? x Thanks

Keith are you sayin you use copper grease on the threads?

OK starting to put stuff back together hopefully have the motor in by Monday. Im planning on Blue Locktiteing all bolts that should be,flywheel,starter gear,engine mounts(one was loose),etc,,,.. Is there any bolts/parts on the bike that would benefit by using Red.Also putting anti-seize on spark plugs,any where else that I should use this? I'll be installing a Mistral X-over and wondering if exhaust assembly paste is worth using? Thanks Michael

You may have logged more miles in the dirt on that trip than most GS owners do in a lifetime! You green nut! That should be your handle Jacob,Pistachio MC.

Glad it worked out Don.I did have a spare spring and they are about $10 so worth having a spare around in case it happens again,(several have been repeat offenders).Also the pawl arm has a boss on it that was undersized.If yours hasnt been changed the incorrect boss tends to wear the spring out quicker. Michael PS Hope to have the Scura on the road in the next couple weeks if you wanna come up north.

My pressure/spring plate did have R-A-M stamped on it.But as Pete noted friction could have been changed.The new RAM's friction plate from the single plate I bought from Richard looks just like the one that came out.I'll hopefully have hub off later in the week so I can compare to PR's pics. Edge sent the shock absorber cover dont know if that does what your describing.I'll post pics.I should have left them off as I want to bleed the clutch again once the motors back in.Maybe pull the swingarm as it was easy to get in and I havent done the spacing adjustment yet. Assuming you have the old one out- lightly lubricate the shaft of the main bearing. Carefully put the lip of the new bearing over the shaft so it rides properly. Fit it up to the tunnel and then use a drift to seat the seal properly. Use a large socket or something that fits on the edge of the seal, and maybe use an extension, so you can see that you are driving it in straight. That's probably not all that helpful... I have a fork seal driver that fits perfectly from an old VFR it drove it in fine till the last millimeter but think oil should help it.I do have some flat drifts too. Thanks Michael

Hi Jorgen Assuming your sayin 16 thousand killometers ,that would be premature for the clutch plates to be worn,but possible.There are 2 seals that prevent fluid from gettin into the clutch housing which should always be dry.You can easily check by looking through the fly wheel hole to see if theres any fluid visible.if you dont see fluid doesnt prove there isnt any in there but if you do see some then you know you have a blown seal. Unlikely this is the problem. The pawl arm and spring in the transmission pre-selector housing could be worn which would cause the symptoms you are describing.Common problm.Only way to know is pulling the cover.Not a big job.Drain fluid,pull starter,free shock remote,gear linkage,then cover. Others should chime in other theories but I have seen this failure on the forum dozens of times.My bike had this problem and was repaired and am currently replacing the clutch. Do you have a factory manual? Michael

Thanks Roy,I just put my driveshaft back in today so that came in handy.