mznyc

I haven't seen it mentioned if you checked all exhaust joints yet.Headers,fore and aft of the X-over.

Thanks G New one went in easy till the last mm,when the rubber cover got caught up.Out she went.New one on order.I figured I would use motor oil as a lube,maybe freeze it first? Whaddaya think?

Makin progress Hub tool should be in next week so cant put motor back in till I replace it. I dont have an internal leaks,but Micha sent a rear seal for motor and O-ring and seal for front of tranny.Should I not fix what's not broken? Rear seals already out,but wonder if I should change tranny's.Thoughts? Cleaned everything I could get access to.Frame,engine,swingarm,all wires and connectors.Checked brake pads,replaced rears,bleed both front and back.Removed pads and pins and greased pistons and pins. Replaced fuel filter,and hoses to it.New breather hose on order. Swingarm and drive shaft go back in tomorrow.Painted a couple small rust spots.Greased,all U-joints,splines and bearings.Swingarm ,rear drive and rear wheel bearings all good. Finally installing Edge guard that been sitting on the shelf for a couple years,....

Got it out with a cheap hook style seal puller.Piece of rubber tube between crank shaft and tool to protect and out she came easy. Michael

Good point.Id like to know how you set it up from Zero. Warren,once the rear wheel is off,I just did this a couple weeks ago but dont have the manual in front of me so going from memory, Support Bevel box if you havent already Remove brake caliper and mount Remove reaction bar Remove disconnect pinch bolts that hold rear part of the shaft to the bevel box Remove bevel box Remove rear section of drive shaft,STOP,!! TAKE NOTE OF FACTORY PAINTED MARKS WHERE THE FRONT AND REAR SECTIONS OF THE DRIVE SHAFT MEET! You will need to re-align when re-assembling.If their worn or gone make your own BEFORE dis-assembling . Remove lower shock bolt Remove swingarm Remove cover over front U-joint Remove pinch bolt holding the front section of drive shaft to transmission the output shaft Clean,clean,clean,grease,re-assemble in reverse.The swingarm spacers and drive shaft alignment are IMPORTANT!!!! I probably forgot something so hopefully someone will chime in to correct me Take pictures of every part and mark or label all parts if you dont have shop manual it will much easier if you get stuck. There was a link for the factory shop manual in the reference section,dont know if it's still working.I bought a copy on Ebay.The manual is typically Guzzi incomplete and translations can be frustrating,but a must for all who want to do their own maintenance. Michael

Couldnt get it with cheap picks or screwdriver.Dont want to risk damaging anything. Gonna head to Sears tomorrow to try to find a puller.Anyone have a recommendation ?

This is the list of "Things To Do While The Rear Wheel Is Off" Henry was referring to, http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15816 And a pic of the pork chop spacer measurements,

Yup Andy this shouldn't be here."Special place for banter,......." I posted a soundfile of my bike with MG Ti's that sound a lot like that in the "Fileshare" forum

Thanks Andy I have never changed a rear seal before so I dont know the correct procedure.Didnt want to go in there hacking away doin damage.Is this the kind of "real seal puller" you mean? Link Sorry for such a stupid question,.... Phil,are you saying tap around the circumference of the seal with a punch,gently till it sits in? Arent there pick specifically designed to remove seals? I may have a driver or socket that will fit it to drive in. Thanks Michael

Can you just pull this seal with a pick,and install by pushing in ,or do I need a special tool?

This is a "Technical Topic". Yup,sounds like a pawl spring.If not, may want to check clutch plates if all easier solutions don't resolve the problem.My 20k single plate clutch was worn .

You cant call yourself an idiot till you start a thread about how your seat is stuck,take the rear end body work off to release it, then realize you were trying to unlock it with the wrong lock(helmet)!

15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust

Shouldnt be that hard to get back on,cable or a hose may have shifted,making it harder than normal to get it back on.ive had to fiddle with it a few times myself,but usually a few stabs and then it just falls in.If you dare to venture under there again,you will Have to some time,clean the connectors with some fine grit sandpaper,a light coat of dielectric grease and maybe a gentle crimp.it'll probably happen again. Whereabouts are you Steve ?im in the New Paltz/Woodstock/Kingston area.was hard leavin yesterday .working in LA today and tomorrow.Stayin near Angeles Crest ,torture without a bike!Oh and I have to work!

It may be the bullet connectors under the tank since you had it off you may have disturbed something and they can be intermittent

Thanks Steve Glad you got it sorted I don't think the replacement from NAPA Is much cheaper,maybe $30.I'm gonna check on Monday.plus it's not and exact match,some minor trimming involved. Michael

Ha ha ,with enjoyment I hope!Would been back in if I had that damm hub tool. Yup it looked like trans fluid,just wondered if you sprayed it with some cleaner and it mixed with dust.Probably the push rod seal.I obviously dont know from experience but from what Ive been taught in this process by others who know a lot more than me.If you dont want to open it soon a cheap fix.About $4 USD for o ring and washer.Seal is either $22 or 36 according to my invoice from MI,just dont have them in front of me to confirm which one was what. If you hear from the Ebay guy let me know I emailed him again this morning.He had been prompt to emails last week.Gave him dimensions a few days ago and nada,probably busy. Michael PS I got the twin plate set-up from Reboot.It came off an 08 Griso.Peter would know which ones would fit the V11's.I think it was about $250 US once again would have to check.It had serviceable friction plates but the SD-s were cheap so I didnt want to put in a set that I would change in 10K,...

Yeah, I managed it - was kind of a pain but it's done now. No real tricks although removing the rt side coil made working on that end of the hose easier... Steve Removing the motor makes it Much easier! How much did you pay for the MG part?There is a cheaper NAPA option,wondering how much as Im replacing mine. Thanks

Hi Steve Ive never done it but as my motor is currently pulled I noticed cracking at the top end.It came out real easy,just loosen clamps and it slipped right out.Shouldn't be that difficult to get back in.But hey,it's a Guzzi

Before I bodge it up,what is the correct procedure to remove/install the rear bearing seal?

I had been a Arai guy for 15 years or so.Quantums.Love how they fit .But each model I felt the quality of the peripheral stuff(air ducts,side plates) started to suffer.As they have always claimed to be superior in QC to other brands and charged as much or more this was unacceptable.One day I was riding down the road and the top air vent flew off.Inspected it and it was held on by a double sided tape-like gasket.On a $600 helmet?Come on Arai. Since I ride in full leathers all summer I figured I would try a modular to get more air when coming to stops or gas.Thought the Nolan was a good balance of quality and value.Very happy with it for several seasons now,but a few weeks ago threw the old Arai on and couldnt believe the difference in comfort,sound and weight.Im due for a new one so I think Im going for the new Arai Quantum II .Give them one more chance. Moto-journalists for years have recommended to replace your helmet every five years due to deterioration on the foam liners over time.Since this is the single most important piece of safety gear we can wear that may be something we should heed.(Unless your a Harley guy,then a protecting your head is not that important) I think stretching a helmet to ten years is pushing your luck.I'll let someone else crash test that theory for me.

Pos is rider left,neg rider right.I'm looking at PC 545 right now as Ive had it sitting on my shelf for a couple seasons.(the Spark wont die!)If it lays down(I dont remember)they would be opposite.If it stands up you should just be able to flip it. Bikes down the road at garage I'll look at it later this morning but sure someone else will chime in.

What is the wet stuff around the hub? Do you spray something or is that trans fluid? Micha at MI sent these, 95028025 – lock washer 90706233 – input shaft o-ring 90404059 – input seal as recommended replacement on a clutch job. Also sent the rear bearing seal and breather pipe gasket, 90405367 – rear main seal 12007600 – breather pipe gasket What tools do you need to pull/install the rear seal? There appears to be a few imperfections on the locknut,maybe the homemade tool did that/ 140 for the hub sounds about right. 35 Euro isnt bad for the KM5.I have corresponded with the Ebay seller,just waiting for a response to last email I sent him a couple days ago.JRT is lending me a tool,we're not sure if it is correct.I dont have fabrications tools available to me. Please add more photos and updates,it will help me and others who havent done this before.

Looks like you'll need new push rod seals,washer and hub.I have the SD-techs waiting to go in ,no experience with them but got a killer deal on Ebay for them.MG Cycle sells them so would assume they are reputable.Have you talked to Peter at Reboot? Has that locknut been hacked at? Waiting on the correct tool to remove that is holding me up putting the motor back in. This should be in technical topics,....

Ive ignored electrical quirks before on other bikes in the past only to have them bite me in the most inopportune place/time.Personally,I wont do that again,but if you dont care,...... You have to see what kind of volts the system is putting out. Check cold-battery after sitting overnight Check at idle Check 3-5k Go for a ride for 15-20 mins,no stops if possible(wouldnt go too far,or go with a friend) then check volts What cha got?