mznyc

Sure,I'm up for any suggestions. thanks

Looking for tools required to remove,install V11 or later model ,1100 Sport and later big blocks. Clutch alignment tool,flywheel locking tool,center hub nut

Looky here.Who says a liquid-cooled bike can't look good? http://enigma1050.co.uk/

That, and the endless,orgasmic,curvy roads of northern California = Nirvana! Oh boy would I like to take that on 36 between 101+ the 5 Congrats

Welcome Ninjlao. I think it's great that your keeping the bike and continuing on with your dad's passion.Maybe pass her down to your kids when the time comes. I second the vote, DO NOT EVER JUMP START A MOTORCYLE BATTERY!! I would agree with Henry to not go with a cheap battery.Why buy one now and another in a year.I have the original battery in mine,almost a 10y old bike. Be patient,especially in Ca you can ride all year.But Dec-Jan are great months to get her sorted while the Santa Ana winds and then the heavy rains of winter pass. After you get her started,the first thing I would do is in this order, Change the oil and filter Check the tire pressures,if the tires are more than 2-3 years old chuck em' Check the brake pads Flush brake and clutch fluids Check gearbox and bevel fluid levels Check and lube wheel bearings Lube driveshaft All these things are important to yous and the bikes LIFE! After that I would , Clean or replace air filter Check ,adjust valve lash Check, adjust TPS Check, replace plugs Check steering bearings Torque heads if you feel like it These are the most common maintenance items and once sorted ,pretty easy to keep up year to year. Yes motorcycling is expensive,but all these things combined,if you do it yourself and get new tires and battery,dont equal an average weeks salary. Enjoy and keep asking questions

Ha ha ,it's a saga.Missing shifts and false neutrals.Converting the Single plater to a twin plate.Hope to start right after the holidays if I have all parts by then. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16155&st=40

Why don't you take her out for some more sweet rides before the clutch surgery? I mean it's always nice to have some sweet memories of yesterday. Field surgery is a risky thing and will always leave scars no forum can wipe off just so hubert Weathers finally turning seasonable here in the north east US,which means cold.Been the warmest November on record. Unfortunately the wonky clutch has limited my rides on the Goose for over a year.Time to get it sorted!

OK stop the presses.Found the problem.Thought I had checked thoroughly , but after pulling the battery again found one of the neg leads had fallen under the battery when re-installing. Thanks to all for the help! Took her out for a quick ride before clutch surgery ,and she was running sweet(other than false neutrals).Been sitting for months!

What's the safest way to do that without blowin anything up?

04 even better,no repackaged 02's and most issues sorted. Nero Corso(my favorite),Rosso Corso Lemans with Ohlins.Cafe Sport,and Coppa Italia.Nakeds with Ohlins!

Welcome Goose.You'll find the forum quite helpful especially from the technical end as there are many members that have ridden MG's for decades. 4-5K is about average(I'm always cruising Ebay,CL,etc) for a non-Ohlins equipped models in average to above average condition.Like most brands,Guzzi's don't like to fall down,and I would stay away from anything dropped or crashed.Parts can be expensive and hard to find or the wait can be a interminable .If you spend a little more dosh.1-1.5k you can get an Ohlins equipped bike and it makes a huge difference if you like twisties.MG OEM mini fairings,CF and plastic are still available if you want to go with a naked and want to get a little more wind protection Not many people claim to have 100K on V11's as they aren't used by most to commute or tour ,even though you could and some do ,to me they a perfect backroad scratcher on a good day.The motor should last 100k if taken care of.They aren't as demanding as say a Ducati as far as maintenance and relatively easy to work on at home. They have a few issues not many major ,some annoying,some silly,but overall well built. Here's a couple of must reads by member JRT for anyone interested in buying a V11S http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5692 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5691

Gstallons I should mentioned that it is in neutral and N light is lit. Guzz, Starter motor was off while working on transmission cover.Replaced neutral switch with a new one before restoring and it is working.If the N light is any indication . Of course DMM dies while trying to trouble shoot Thanks for the suggestions

Thanks Roy! "Do you hear the petcock operate" Do you mean this? "Went out yesterday to start her up and no fuel pump priming sound." "Checked all leads to battery" I read your diagram before posting and saw that direct lead from the relay to the battery. Everything was pulled clear and battery removed,so that makes me wonder.I have missed leads before when re-assembling.Want to add heated grips,to the power outlet and with all the wires jammed into a cramped space ,may be time for a fusebox Sorry stupid electical newb question. When checking volts at relay ,I should have one probe at the terminal and the other grounded?(frame?)Does it matter pos,neg probe which goes where? Sorry bout the electron 101 questions

Haven't started the ole girl for a few months,trying to solve clutch problems.Went out yesterday to start her up and no fuel pump priming sound. Checked, Fuse Swapped Relay Kill Switch Kick stand up/down no matter(always worked down previously) All lights work Turns over fine Checked all leads to battery Neutral light lit and bike in Neutral What should I see volt/cont wise at the fuse and relay key on-off? Thanks Michael

what's the button?

Thanks for the advice Thumpoer.So did you remove the swingarm?I know some dont feel that it's necessary,others find it easier.I think pre 02' frames are slightly different,may not make a difference though,..

Thanks Keith great stuff,that info will help indeed! Phil I forgot about your write-up which is excellent,I'll try to expound on it as my swap will be slightly different as I'm going to the 2-plater so this will help those thinking of going that direction.Thanks for the reminder,yours should be in the "How to: section

Thanks Jason.Yup read that one too.Lotta good stuff,the links to the pics aren't there. Are other people experiencing that? Wonder if that pushrod cup will be the same on the Griso clutch as the Scura.Pete at Reboot said I didn't need anything else and pushrod hub was correct. Pete's article is great also but also no links to pics. Michael

Does anyone have a map for an 02'-MG Ti,Mistral X-over,stock air box,stock ECU(or Race)? Thanks Michael

Thanks for that link,I had found that previously.There's also this, albeit for a 5-speed which I would assume is very similar , http://archive.guzzitech.com/Clutch-joeM.html I'm looking to create a more comprehensive and thourough article with pictures.Particularly for beginner,intermediate home mechanics such as myself.Many of you have been wrenching Guzzi's for years and decades and I'm trying to mine that experience for less en-lighntened while gathering info my own swap. Keep the info,tips,suggestions,jokes and help coming,...

Gathering info and parts to do a clutch replacement on the Scura.I couldn't find a "How To" on several searches on either the engine removal or clutch replacement.I'm hoping the wise "elders" who have owned and worked on multiple Guzzi's for decades and even the young bucks will chime in their advice and experiences on these procedures.Hopefully this will be successful and be deemed worthy as a "How To" article with photos!. I have a 08 Griso twin plate assembly on order from Reboot. I have a good selection of standard tools and the shop manual, other than the MG special tools for the clutch ,which I'm trying to locate if anyone has a set,what else could I use? What gaskets,seals,parts should I replace,grease,or maintenance should I do while I have the engine out? How to support and pull motor? I'm probably going to hoist it from above with a hoist and strap around spine(tank removed) support motor from underneath with a jack. How to remove the clutch and re-assemble it. Parts needed Griso Twin Plate Assembly Friction Plates,probably SD-Tecs Seals ,Gaskets,etc Procedures To follow,.... Please add anything you can think of,hopefully this will a great value to others in the future who have to take on this job,... Michael

would the 5 speed tools work? I will gladly lend out my big bolt, spacer and extra input gear (from a 5 speed). send pm. Hmm don't know I'll call MPH if no one chimes in here. Thanks foto!

I have been riding Showa equipped bikes for years and very happy.Some have needed heavier springs and fluid,but overall they were fine for everyday use without much fiddling. I had never ridden a Ohlins suspended bike until I bought the Scura and the difference is night and day.The PO had the seals replaced under warranty and replaced all fluids and had it set up for his weight/needs by Pro Pilot in NJ.A suspension race shop. There really isn't that much price different between Ohlin and non-Ohlin bikes.I always peruse the ads and have seen Ohlins bikes go for under 6k and as high as 10k.6-7 is defiantly possible if you can wait for a clean one here,Craig's list,Ebay,Cycle Trader,etc Unless Chuck keeps hoarding them to drive up the market

New clutch ordered for the Scura,but needs friction plates so trying to save scratch by renting or borrowing a set of clutch tools ,as I hope to only do this job once! Thanks Michael

Decided to go with the Griso double plate from Reboot. I'll be starting a "How To" about pulling the motor and clutch with pictures, as I couldn't find one and I think it would help anyone in the future who wants to tackle this job. All advice and help will be appreciated as Ive never done this.I'm more brave than smart