mznyc

No go on that Red Rider,She's rounded. Normal or special socket won't do it.Lookin for ole timey solution, 1st off, penetrant: Kroil or a mix of acetone & atf [tested to work almost as well as the Kroil, cheap & easy DIY penetrant! ] After it has soaked for a day or so, you'll need something that can get in there & grab that screw head. I haven't put eyeballs on this yet, but is there any way a basin wrench can get in there & wrestle that sucker out? Failing that, there's always the left-hand drill bit/easy out method of stuck screw removal, but we'd like to avoid such drastic measures. Either way, be certain to have the new replacement screw on hand, maybe w/ some anti-seize as well? [Caution: have no idea how trace amounts of AS would react w/ the clutch fluid...Greg? Pete? - any input?] Thanks Skeeve I have the speedbleeder valve on order,should be in early this week. Could the bleeder valve be obtained from a auto parts store if the SP gets delayed? Is this something standard? Removing the valve ,I'm assuming I'll completely drain system and let air in.By refilling and pumping I assume that I shouldn't have any problem gettin the air out? thanks, MZ

I see it's not just false neutrals but also the mysterious box-jamming problem. There used to be a number of threads on this. It came up again here recently and I commented on it again because of Aberdeen Gary's gearbox pics. It's terrible problem. For me, the box would lock in second and often not budge for a long time. It was worst for me on a trip down the length of Ireland, when for a long way I couldn't get it out of second. At one point, when like your example, it jammed setting off from a toll booth, I pulled over and opened the box because I thought that the spring may have broken. In fact I could find nothing wrong anywhere. It started when there was extremely bad traffic congestion and I was in low gear a lot at slow speeds. The bike was hot: other people have connected this problem to the gearbox being hot. As far as I know, there is still not any explanation at all to this problem that plagues some bikes. This is a very long shot, but I wondered, in the other recent thread, if this problem had something to do with Guzzi adding the extra internal plate to late boxes? They must have added it for some reason? Is there a bit of slop/fexibility that allows some mis-alignment and jamming in boxes without that extra bracing. I must stress that I haven't looked at the box to investigate, since learning about the Guzzi mod, so my speculation might be completely wrong and not make sense if I looked again. But - what's the extra part for? It's just a thought and definitely a question, especially in the continuing absence of any other explanation for stuck box. I see that you are trying to do the clutch fluid change. Unfortunately I can't remember exactly how I did that. I'm sure I had the wheel off, but it was done without having a second person to help. Keep at it - something will give eventually. Hmmmmmm... Thanks D for the words of en'courage'ment.Courage is something you need when considering buying a Guzzi! Now that you mention it,on that first ride I had ridden it for several hours and it was hot.One thing it has never done,is stay stuck in gear.Usually working the shifter up and down for a second or a minute will get her back in place.Yes my box doesn't have the additional plate.I wonder if it could be added/ordered and what, if anything,would you have to do to fit it?or could I just slap a used 03 on cover on there from Reboot, Greg Field ? Ya there is way too much play in these boxes,for a 15k USD bike.And the explanation Ive heard for years that Guzzi makes lousy boxes is waay unacceptable.Doesn't anyone in the front offices,design,engineering or assembly line at Guzzi have any pride? By the by,my girlfriend just got back from southern Spain to Glasgow and said it was 3c.Had the heat on and a cuppa.Hope your gettin some of the tropical flow,...

Thanks Richard,I already removed the shock remote.I agree ,it should be easy,but the placement of it and it's exposure to water and grime makes it vulnerable to seizing.Unfortunately this was my first experience with it and I should have hit it with WD-30 first.I already ordered a Speedbleeder but will still have to get her out for the replacement,....

No go on that Red Rider,She's rounded. Normal or special socket won't do it.Lookin for ole timey solution,

Oh great I rounded mine right quick.Anyone have a solution getting her off,because of the tight quarters even using a special 10mm "getting a rounded head off" socket head she wouldn't budge. Thanks! Michael

Who's Kev? Good luck with it! Keith Oops typo,sorry.My brain tells my fingers what to do but they pay no attention,...

Thanks Kev ,Hmm missed #9,couldn't hurt right? I rode it for the last 3 and a half seasons with only an occasional FN and stuck gear never a regular occurrence on 1 ride.Maybe springs have lost some of their resistance.Not out of the realm of possibility by looking at their fragile construction and history. Gonna try and get in there this week let yall know what I find,but still welcome any advice. Michael

Thanks Bal Hopefully my answers help solve the mystery Thanks Tom I'll have a look at it when I open it up.Here's some pics of what I know is a new MG spring and what I believe is a Cannon,

Thanks Raz

Couldn't find info from a search anyone know

Sure docc,but PO had the same problems with low mileage as the first owner.Still only has about 20k on it now and I haven't abused it,so I don't think the clutch is spent,maybe design flaw. I remember reading that many people had problems with the replacement springs.So hoping it's just that,since I have to slightly different springs in hand.Was hoping not to do a clutch job until I had a lot more mileage on her.

Checked the VFR clipons side by side today but the Ohlins on the Scura must be larger diameter than the stock Mazz's so couldnt put them on.Appear to be about the same height as the MPH risers so may be worth getting a cheap pair on ebay to try.I occasionally see them in the want ad section on the VFRD.com Michael

****Update*** I checked to see if shifter was making contact with porkchop and was not the case.While looking for something in shed I found box of spare parts from PO.It had Cannon Racecraft spring in a labeled open package,so don't know if it's an actual Cannon spring.I also ordered a MG spring from MG Cycle a while back in anticipation of opening cover,and don't know if this spring is the more recent MG part.Dont have camera now so cant take a good pic but they are different.Slightly different shape hook,length of arm,and loop.I know PO changed spring a couple times so dont know what was the last one installed was.I know I can measure it I just dont have a tool to get an accurate reading. Sooo, I guess I gotta open the cover again,bummer,...... Any thoughts would be more than welcome, Belfast,Baldini,Greg,,? Thanks Michael

I'm in the market for a new set of boots.These looked good but was wondering if anyone here owned a set and could give a review. thanks, Michael http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moto-Guzzi-Touring-Boots-Euro-Size-44-US-10-5-/300466033807?pt=Apparel_Merchandise&hash=item45f52bd48f

I have owned three different VFR's and currently have a 02 VTEC ABS.Great bike and engine.For comfortable,agile handling,great V-4 motor,it's hard to beat and they're cheap.They have had a couple of electrical issues which Honda recalled and fixed promptly and FOC to the owners.Something I'm still waiting for Guzzi to do. The 1200 hasn't been a huge success,a lot of owners love the engine, comfort,and handling.Many complain about lack of fuel range,price and some say excessive heat.Honda targeted buyers who were going for BMW K1300S class sport-tourers who didn't mind paying premium price.A 160 HP V4 engine is anything but bland,just go test ride one.the quiet exhaust fools many. Ive never liked Beemers style ,and going in that direction ,didn't work for me or a lot of previous VFR owners.Also the K bikes have more factory touring options.If you really want a VFR 1200, it would be a better value to wait a year or two and buy a mint low mileage example.Or go the route I did and got a loaded,mint low mileage,ready to tour 800,100hp+ bike for 4700.00,4 years ago,cheaper now.About a quarter of what you'd pay for a similar equipped 1200.Bags,centerstand,heated grips,power outlets are options.No heated seats,gps,electronic suspension,or traction control are available.Something to consider if you want some modern toys.They are coming out with a touring version next year,but don't know how different it will be. This is the definitive site for VFR's,lotta owners reviews and thoughts, http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/forum/104-seventh-generation-vfrs/

Well I just happen to have a set in my shed.I have an O2 VFR with Heli's on it.My Scura came with MPH risers and I think they're a great sporty position and very well made.Just keep in mind if you go to a taller bar you may have to install longer hoses.Someone else may be able to confirm that. I'll see if I can get one of the VFR bars on next week and I'll let you know how it compares or is doable,if so finding them on Ebay or the VFRD.com shouldn't be a problem Michael

Jaap uploaded a sound file in the fileshare section of my MG Ti's,made with my Iphone

Thanks Hal.I had seen that some people had the Racecraft's springs fail,including PO.When I had the cover off,I probably should have pulled it and measured it.I have a new MG spring. If I pull cover again,I would prefer not to do the "roadside" method of getting the cover off as I cant get RDSP locally.Could I dump the new fluid and reuse it? Thanks, Michael

Hi KB,In that thread it definitely referred to rear wheel removal not the shaft ,that's why it stood out to me as I hadn't heard that before.Unfortunately if you do a "transmission" search you get a lot of results and I haven't been able to find it again.Ive never removed the drive shaft.Clutch action feels normal. On the way home from picking up the bike,4 years ago,after stopping at a toll booth ,it got stuck in 1st gear,pulled over and after a minute or so working the shifter got it shifting again.This has happened a dozen times over the four years no rhyme or reason when it would happen.I would also occasionally hit a false neutral.I chalked this up to Guze quirkiness. Last year it became almost a regular occurrence,stuck gear/FN, almost every ride so I decided to do the fluid change and inspection. When I did the "transmission/pawl spring" search I found several threads from the PO,(dbdicker) and it was clear that this frustrated him and was one of the reasons he decided to sell it.I don't want this to happen to me. Thanks, Michael

Thanks docc believe I'm clear of the Pork Chop,clutch has no excessive play.I forgot to mention that I haven't changed clutch fluid yet,so that may help.Only have about 20k on bike and don't abuse the clutch so as others have suggested before I hope clutch is not worn. If you apply slight pressure with the top of your foot to the bottom of the shifter right after a gear change you feel pressure slowly build down on the shifter.if you try to change gears before this pressure builds you will almost always hit a FN Don't know if this is normal or matters,.. Michael

I've been working on this for a month or so and after a couple of uneventful(ie:no shifting problems) but spirited rides ,yesterday the false neutrals returned after bike warmed up ,about an 1.5 hrs into the ride.This makes me lose confidence big time every time I'm coming into a hot corner or stop.Just wait and cringe for the oncoming crunch of gears. Also neutral light sometimes comes on in other gears,sometimes faintly,sometimes brightly,no consistency ,but works in neutral . About a week ago I slowed down on a 2 lane highway to take a right turn,turn signal on for about a hundred yards while braking,rear brake light works,and I hear the squealing of tires from behind me,I check mirror and get a glimpse of a car,fishtailing,I cant go anywhere as Im in a false neutral! FMe!By the grace of God she passed me on the right in the breakdown lane,while fishtailing and just scoots around me and on to whatever dream she was in.Lucky there was a car wide shoulder otherwise I'd be a grease spot.If I had been in the requested gear I would have accelerated away from her,but as it was I was a sitting duck What Ive done so far to try to fix this, Replaced fluid front and rear with Shockproof Inspected spring,not broken Lubed shift linkage Adjusted eccentric adjuster,every subsequent ride that showed symptoms I made small adjustments to this on the road and it helped but problems always reoccurred on subsequent rides. What I think possible causes are, The PO replaced to pawl spring 2-3 times and boss arm( the main reason he sold the bike,got sick of this problem).In the box of parts he gave me there was a Racecraft spring,don't know if that's whats in there or an improved MG one.Dont know if the boss arm is the correct size.Wrong spring ,arm? Play in the shift linkage,dont know what is too much play .Where and with what(washers?)do you shim it? I have been leaving the Acorn lock nut off the adjuster till this is sorted,maybe that is loosening the adjust nut,but I have been making sure it's snug before I go for a ride. Maybe in reinstalling the trans cover I didn't align the pre selector wheels correctly? Indents were aligned and neutral switch aligned to indent.Would it work 95% correctly if I didn't put those back in correctly? Maybe it's just me and my style of riding,I don't miss shifts on my other bikes.The shifter peg sits about inch + above my foot which is not where I like it.I like it to sit just above the top of my foot almost touching. When I started researching this I found a post where someone suggested not aligning the rear wheel when re-installing after a removal would cause shifting problems.Couldn't find that thread again and found no mention of this in either the shop or owners manual.Was this guy talking out of his arse? Does seem like the shifting got worse after I removed the wheel to do a tire change two seasons ago.I may have timeline wrong and can't prove this. Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome, Michael

Hi Chet, THIS is a must read if your interested in a X-over pipe. One thing about the power delivery that has disappointing me is the lack of low end and mid range,according to Greg's and others findings the Mistral will help there.the addition of a PC3 will help further,especially if you have a map from an expert ala Todd Eagan.Todd's PC3 A Stucchi is on Ebay now, Ebay Stucchi Michael

Got clouded out last week,never really rained up here just a couple sprinkles but threat killed planned ride.So here's new dates with an alt date in case of a washout.This will be near peak foliage color and it should be spectacular this year.Again ,I will propose a two date meet as this will give more options to all.Meet up for Friday night for dinner in the New Paltz,Kingston,Woodstock area,depending on who comes and from where.Many affordable motels in the area,if more than a couple of people are interested I'll try to negotiate a group price from a local place.I like this place.Right near the NY Thruway and has a great restaurant, http://www.skytop.moonfruit.com/ All day ride Saturday in the Catskills ,250-300 miles of mostly all twisties,beautiful sights,and great food.Maybe even a BBQ at my house,.. A shorter day Sunday in the Bear Mountain,Harriman area,breakfast and about a 100 mile run with great roads and lunch finishing up around 4 pm which should get everyone home by early evening. These are the original routes I'll adjust Saturday to add on about 75 miles of really good stuff.Depending on interest I could cut it down to one day. Post up thoughts and suggestions,.... Saturday October 2nd Sunday October 3rd Alternative date will be Saturday October 9th.

Supposed to be beautiful tomorrow and I am going over to Cliff's Cycle,maybe some late season closeouts,need gloves ,via the back roads of Putnam,Dutchess,Fairfield. Either lunch or late breakfast along the way (Marcus Dairy - the squids or 5 Guys a stone's throw from Cliff's) Anyone up for a half day ride? Meet up 9-11 am ish? Done by 3-4pm Michael

I'll start a new thread,later as internet's crawling now,but I'm thinking the new dates will be October 2 AND 3rd,do a Catskill( revised Route #1 with an extra hundred miles er so) run on Saturday and a lower Hudson Valley (essentially Route #2) run on Sunday for anyone that can only do a one day ride. Saturday October 9th would also be possible I might have to work on Sunday the 10th ,not sure yet. Just throwing these out there so people can check schedules/better halfs and mull over. Hopefully those members in the area who couldn't make it last weekend may be up for these alt dates and we could turn this baby into something bigger! Michael