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Thanks Greg,for affirming.I'll see if the starter is gettin hot tomorrow.I also left bike off the charger for a couple of days to see where the battery volts falls after a rest.

Hi Hubert, Thanks for the help,I'll try the multiple start method and see if the starter is warm/hot.Let cha know tomorrow nite . Ugh,$185.00 starter for a bike that has 16k is weeeak! Is Euromoto the best place for price that you have found? http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/starterframes.html Is the model I want? Doesn't list the V11S,but does say all MG's 69-06.

Thanks Raz.That solenoid is only a year or so old,so I hope it isn't mucked up.I remember that I wasn't sure if I should lube that plunger but didn't get a definitive answer from anybody here. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=10534&hl= I think I put a light coat on or none at all.Saw your link to servicing starter and didn't see anything about whether to grease or not.I did just skim through it but,will give it a thorough read tonite. If she shows signs of slow starting or hesitation with new batt,I'll do a tear-down. Michael

OK,checked all connections on starter and battery and everything seems tight and clean.Took battery out and looked at it. It is a Spark and has a MG logo on it so it probably is original. Let bike sit for 10-15 minutes with key on and she started slowly but did start after a couple of revolutions of the starter.Stopped it and restarted and she fired up again albeit reluctantly for a second.So what I think I'll do is replace my battery,as that's the cheapest option and being 6 years old it is a little long in the tooth,so could be suspect.I think 5 years lifetime is fair for any battery. If she shows any signs of starter problem with new battery or excessive draw while cranking I'll replace the starter Thanks for the help,if anybody has any more ideas and suggestions for checking the rest of the charging system,I'd be open for any help or suggestions. I'm gonna take her out tomorrow and see how she acts.Guess I'll have to stop on hills or inclines till resolved.

Ha,ha.,,,true ,I'll be nice.Ya I', still holding out hope that someone will chime in on doin a reg test other than revving to 3k checking and volts at battery. Common Greg,yer being humble.Anybody on here more than a few months SHOULD know who you are! Didn't realize this was a more common problem than I was aware of.That info from you,makes me very suspicious of the starter.I'll replace the battery,and see how she acts.Any shop test that I could do on the starter?

Sure hope it's not the starter.!$15,000 2002 dollars for a bike that doesn't get ridden in rain and only 16k on it ,is unacceptable for a failure .But I'll hold out hope it's a battery and/or a connection . Oh if someone chimes in on checking reg/alt I'll hopefully eliminate those.

More than a few seconds,less than a minute. Would the starter kill the battery in one try, if it was bad?Showed,hard to tell because it's only for a fraction of a second, about 10v when starter is turning over.Then goes back to @ 12.6v.

Thanks for the input guys. Gstallons,I'll give all the connections a looksee again.But with the battery starting fine after sitting on charger and then dead on second try,sounds like a weak battery that won't hold a charge.Did you have the same symptoms as me?Since I replaced starter solenoid last year it's possible that one of those connections came loose. Can anybody talk me through checking alt and reg?

Hi Guys,seems like the lectrical problems are a plauge amongst many of us recently.Or are our rides showing they're age now that they're 4-8 years old! Recently me Scura has been slow to start,a few slooow rotations of the starter and then she fires.Went out a couple of weeks ago with a friend ,with few stops and mostly back roads,above 3k rpms and last few stops I noticed her slowly turning over then kicking in. Sat for a week on BT and she fired right up,I let her warm up for a few minutes and shut her down,then tried to re-start and got the dreaded click,click.click. So I'm believing that the battery is toast.I think it is the second one on the bike,not sure as I'm second owner. Got 13v @ batt-off 12.8 @ idle 14.2-6 @ 3k last digit is broken on my LCD display of DDM. Any other test that could check regulator/alt,as it seems like a few have gone south recently.If so could you talk me through them as shop manual is a little foggy for my feeble mind to understand. Starter solenoid is less that a couple K miles on it.Original starter Anybody got a better price on a Hawker Od than $120.00 delivered,the best I found on the web. Thanks, Michael

If the bike was running fine before and all of a sudden started running poorly,it may be the throttle body boots.It happened to me,running great out on a ride and all of a sudden,spitting,bucking and backfiring,idle all over the place.Boot had slipped off and had some cracks.They're known to be a common failure.Not hard to replace and and believe it was about $30 from MPH. Michael

Oh ya,used to use that exclusively till I found SG cuse it was cheaper.I'll order some up online.Where do you guys get yers?I think I used to get mine from Dennis Kirk pre-internet days,don't know if their still the cheapest. As far as stuff available at any auto parts stores,anybody try a Gunk-type solution?Just wondering what that would do to paint Thanks

****UPDATE****** I bought the Harbor Freight,the Mojo Bar,and blocks which protect the wheel.After a few hours of cursing and the bar slipping off ,when trying to mount the last bead,I got it and proceded to do the V11 and VFR in about an hour.Already had a balancer which takes several minutes per wheel. Wheel mount and bar were about $225.00,so it's already paid for itself in the 2 changes! I may try the NoMar bar as it looks like that design has some advantages over the Mojo.

Went out for a ride a few weeks ago and it was intermittently raining.I live on a gravel road and she got some mud on her sump case, oil rad and exhaust.Forgot to clean her and got busy for a few weeks,now the stuff's baked on.I usually use a dilluted mixture of Simple Green and water.Wouldn't take some of the heavier crud off like it normally would. What else would loosen some of the baked on stuff ,that won't damage the paint or stain the Ti's?Anybody use anything more abrasive than a sponge to wipe off stuff and get in the nooks and crannies that won't scratch? Thanks, Michael

Saw this on VFR website.Unbelievable someone would do this intentionally. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...mp;#entry532728

Thanks d, Pumped it 20 times and got pressure back up!

Tom, I just did mine last week.Dremel,Dremel,Dremel.First bearing will be out in minutes. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13294 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13406 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13407

Agree that Vanson is expensive.But for maximum protection,their the way to go.Also second the thought on going directly to factory.Good excuse to to get some clams and a Pinot Grigio and make a day of it. For the extra couple of dollars,the Vanson will last you for many,many years.Maybe a lifetime.A good VALUE in my opinion. That said,I cant recommend the Fieldsheer stuff more in the mid price level,if their quality hasn't been downgraded since I bought mine.

Hi Pete, My bike had the same symptoms and I tried to "fix it" by turning the the TB balance knob.Wrong! Made it worse. It was a cracked TB boot,which may be your problem.Also any exhaust leak could cause this.If not, a full tune-up procedure would be in order. Check adjust valves. Balance FI's Adjust TPS If you haven't done it before it's realitivly easy with a few basic tools. Lot's of info and help here if you choose to do it.

Hi Tom, Since your in Ma,you could go to the Vanson factory and either find a close out or have one custom cut.Which is what I did.I have a vented model jacket and standard pants and have been wanted to buy a full perf set when funds become available .Vanson by far has the best quality leather,buttons and zippers that I have seen and I've owned and tried on many different brands.Not your least expensive option,but what are our bones and skin worth?A friend is visiting this week and temps are expected to be around 90.I'll be wearing the Vanson! @$600.00 PS Their leathers are still made in US,don't know about the mesh stuff. I also wore a Fieldsheer everyday,all year round for about 8 years and believe the leather quality and thickness is great for the price .The Airspeed 4 looks good for $329.00 Very impressed with the Rev-it stuff,pricy but Very well made.Igniton looks great too.US rep shares a garage with me in NYC,maybe we could workout a group buy?Anyone interested?

Doesn't look like a MGS dash. H Jim,comments?

I'm outa town for a couple of days,so I can't give you any more info till I get back But I didn't do any service on it or put any fluids or lubricants near it.Pads were well within wear marks and operating normally.NO brake ,no power.Just detached it from swingarm to get tire in and out.Seems weird that it would stop working after doing that.I dont use the rear much out on the road but need it for leaving my house which is a downhill gravel road for and 1/4 mile to the main road and slow turnarounds/parking lot maneuvers.

Oops,wasn't clear.I didn't do brake service,just detached it from swingarm to get to wheel and then reattached it. I have no rear brake now.Brake was fine before.

Carefully reassembled the brake,but now don't have any stop power.Looked OK without taking apart.Any tips on re-installing rear brake that might cause this? Thanks, Michael

Hmm.I thought it was brass. I'll be pulling the rear off again to change the rear tire when it comes in but wanted it together so I could roll it back into the shed.I'll take a pic when I get er off. No pun intended. PS In a previous post about changing own tires, http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...51&hl=tireI went with the Harbor Freight changer and a Mojo Lever,about $200.00 total.With saving on tire prices(local shop couldn't come close to SWmoto's price),$80.00 installation,and NYS tax,(and hopefully no scratches).It pays for itself in ONE changing.3 of my bikes are awaiting tires Will do a post-up with pics on how it works.

Thanks guys makes me feel better,NOW I can take her for a test drive! No wonder why these things die early!No protection from the elements. Steve I stand corrected,yes that is the brake mount that sits up against bearing.Thanks for the heads up on the RH spacer(the brass one). I did put it back in place when reassembling.