Darius

Hello Dave I have been looking around for a hugger to replace the stock (IMO ugly) one while extending further down to protect the shock and engine cases. Your application seems like just the ticket. Can you share what year(s) Ducati SS this came from? Thanks

This reply may be late but I am just now getting my 2003 LM back on the road after two years. In any case - I had a similar small leak - left rear corner of plate/sump seal. Took the plate off and checked on a polished granite counter top (closest thing to flat available. Found a slight bend (about 1/16") in the plate at the problem area which I fixed with a dead blow hammer. Have taken a couple long rides since and leakage seems to be cured. Not sure if this was a manufacturing defect or damaged in transit (my guess) but Pete Roper was very responsive and willing to exchange when I contacted him.

I live in NJ - about an hour from EPM Performance and have been working with its owner, Kalus Huenecke, to develop a YSS shock to my 2003 V11 LM. I had originally ordered a HyperPro but after nearly a year of waiting for the factory to get a shock made I gave up and asked Klaus for options. Klaus suggested the YSS is of equal quality to the HyperPro but without the brand recognition. He made me an attractive offer to use my bike as the test mule he could build a shock for and I am hoping it will be completed in the next couple weeks. I specified remote reservoir (in the OEM location) but with both hi and lo speed compression adjustment as well as remote preload adjuster. The shock he is building is the X-506 series but I'm not sure if mine will be billet or steel body. I have already installed the Hyperpro progressive springs in the forks so we will probably be using a progressive spring on the shock as well. Stay tuned - I am looking forward to reporting on the finished results in this forum (that has been a great source of support for me!).

I am 5'6" with a 29-30" inseam. My solution was to order a Corbin Gunfighter seat and ask them to bring the seat pocket as far forward and low as possible. This was a significant improvement both in reaching the ground and handlebar/controls over the otherwise nice Rich Maude upgraded seat that came with the bike. I had contacted Rich first and received the same advice as noted in this thread. Corbin rounds the front section as well so your legs don't have to spread as much when reaching the ground. I am not quite flatfoot to the ground now but at least not tip-toeing either I should also note Corbin seems to have fixed their earlier seat pan fit problems as, other than shimming the seat latch pin, I had no fitment issues whatsoever (much to my relief given I had no other good options). The Corbin seat pan does clear the OEM battery and apparently allows some lowering of the seat "bucket" when moved forward. The good news - they do not charge extra for this "customization". The bad news is Corbin has raised the price of the MG V11 seat considerably since I purchased mine at about $240. I have to agree wholeheartedly with Ratchet on lowering the suspension. I refer to the Guzzi as a "Harley done right" (no offense to those who love the brand!) in that its old school but still handles and stops. I would not want to give up cornering clearance. Hope this helps.

Another tire I believe deserves consideration is the Avon Storm ST. I replaced Michelin Pilot Roads which lasted 8K mikes and gave me good handling as well. Thus far the Avons provide a little better ride and road feel while looking like I might 10K miles out of the rear. At 6K miles they are just begining to show some squaring.

MG Cycles looks like a possible source of cam belts in case the dealer has problems getting the part. http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1156 Beautiful bike!

I adapted a set of Cycle Cat risers to accomplish what you need. Unfortunately they are out of business. You may want to look into the Jean Marc made ones. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7502 Good Luck!

Perhaps another option might be ceramic coating like JetHot. This is used on exhausts as well as engine parts and is supposed to be pretty durable.

My feet seem to fit your description and I use Oxtar Matrix boots - very comfy and waterproof. They are now sold as TSX X-5 boots http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/sport/m...+gore-tex+boots in case you are interested.

I use them in all my bikes for the same reasons you are considering. Unfortunately, I have no empirical evidence supporting my choice. I have called and ordered direct from them. I get the impression they are a small company which can be both good and bad. I have been running these filters in my 2002 Ducati ST4s for 23K miles with Amsoil 20W 50 Synthetic and have not had issues with engine wear or oil consumption (admittedly, this is not high mileage). My 2003 MG LM has only about 6K miles so no long term use to report yet. Sorry I cannot offer more help.

To All I measured the TPS which seemed OK but didn't play with adjustments as I wanted to have Mike Rich diagnose it since he custom mapped the PC (along with building out the engine with pistons, cam etc.). But, as it turns out I was looking in the wrong places. My issue turned out to be a cracked exhaust header - probably a coincidence that had nothing to do with washing. I found this out in reading another posting that described the exact symptoms I was having - but due to the cracked header. Thanks to all who offered helpful suggestions. That is what makes this a great forum!

Glad to hear you are back in business Docc. The photo evidence of your problem is pretty compelling! If your repair goes is anything like my Duc, don't be surprised if you need another bleed to get the last of the fine air bubbles out once they get a chance to form bigger bubbles. Happy and safe riding.

This forum is a great help. I have been trying to figure out why my LM started running rougher (especially at 4000 RPM as described in the original post) after I washed it while cold and went for a ride afterward. I assumed something electrical got wet and checked all the usual suspects to no avail. After reading this I looked and, sure enough, my right header is cracked! My bike has only about 6K miles and I am hard pressed to imagine washing while cold then riding did this - probably more of a coincidence. I remembered seeing some heavy duty "crack proof" headers and after some searching found this link at GuzziTech in case anyone is interested. http://www.guzzitech.com/store/GT-R-Hdrs.html My 2003 has the cross over pipe in front so I will probably go the welding route and see how that works for now.

Docc Sorry for the slow response - It's been a busy few days with other priorities; 1- Dust seal can go on afterward. 2- Use the assembly lube that comes with the rebuild kit. I just lubed with brake fluid and wish used the grease. Note that many greases react badly to brake fluid so use only the special stuff. 3- You can also pry the metal ring out carefully so as not to damage the cylinder bore. I used a very small flat head screw driver to get behind the ring. Good luck!