Darius

Hello Dave I have been looking around for a hugger to replace the stock (IMO ugly) one while extending further down to protect the shock and engine cases. Your application seems like just the ticket. Can you share what year(s) Ducati SS this came from? Thanks

This reply may be late but I am just now getting my 2003 LM back on the road after two years. In any case - I had a similar small leak - left rear corner of plate/sump seal. Took the plate off and checked on a polished granite counter top (closest thing to flat available. Found a slight bend (about 1/16") in the plate at the problem area which I fixed with a dead blow hammer. Have taken a couple long rides since and leakage seems to be cured. Not sure if this was a manufacturing defect or damaged in transit (my guess) but Pete Roper was very responsive and willing to exchange when I contacted him.

I live in NJ - about an hour from EPM Performance and have been working with its owner, Kalus Huenecke, to develop a YSS shock to my 2003 V11 LM. I had originally ordered a HyperPro but after nearly a year of waiting for the factory to get a shock made I gave up and asked Klaus for options. Klaus suggested the YSS is of equal quality to the HyperPro but without the brand recognition. He made me an attractive offer to use my bike as the test mule he could build a shock for and I am hoping it will be completed in the next couple weeks. I specified remote reservoir (in the OEM location) but with both hi and lo speed compression adjustment as well as remote preload adjuster. The shock he is building is the X-506 series but I'm not sure if mine will be billet or steel body. I have already installed the Hyperpro progressive springs in the forks so we will probably be using a progressive spring on the shock as well. Stay tuned - I am looking forward to reporting on the finished results in this forum (that has been a great source of support for me!).

I am 5'6" with a 29-30" inseam. My solution was to order a Corbin Gunfighter seat and ask them to bring the seat pocket as far forward and low as possible. This was a significant improvement both in reaching the ground and handlebar/controls over the otherwise nice Rich Maude upgraded seat that came with the bike. I had contacted Rich first and received the same advice as noted in this thread. Corbin rounds the front section as well so your legs don't have to spread as much when reaching the ground. I am not quite flatfoot to the ground now but at least not tip-toeing either I should also note Corbin seems to have fixed their earlier seat pan fit problems as, other than shimming the seat latch pin, I had no fitment issues whatsoever (much to my relief given I had no other good options). The Corbin seat pan does clear the OEM battery and apparently allows some lowering of the seat "bucket" when moved forward. The good news - they do not charge extra for this "customization". The bad news is Corbin has raised the price of the MG V11 seat considerably since I purchased mine at about $240. I have to agree wholeheartedly with Ratchet on lowering the suspension. I refer to the Guzzi as a "Harley done right" (no offense to those who love the brand!) in that its old school but still handles and stops. I would not want to give up cornering clearance. Hope this helps.

Another tire I believe deserves consideration is the Avon Storm ST. I replaced Michelin Pilot Roads which lasted 8K mikes and gave me good handling as well. Thus far the Avons provide a little better ride and road feel while looking like I might 10K miles out of the rear. At 6K miles they are just begining to show some squaring.

MG Cycles looks like a possible source of cam belts in case the dealer has problems getting the part. http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1156 Beautiful bike!

I adapted a set of Cycle Cat risers to accomplish what you need. Unfortunately they are out of business. You may want to look into the Jean Marc made ones. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7502 Good Luck!

Perhaps another option might be ceramic coating like JetHot. This is used on exhausts as well as engine parts and is supposed to be pretty durable.

My feet seem to fit your description and I use Oxtar Matrix boots - very comfy and waterproof. They are now sold as TSX X-5 boots http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/sport/m...+gore-tex+boots in case you are interested.

I use them in all my bikes for the same reasons you are considering. Unfortunately, I have no empirical evidence supporting my choice. I have called and ordered direct from them. I get the impression they are a small company which can be both good and bad. I have been running these filters in my 2002 Ducati ST4s for 23K miles with Amsoil 20W 50 Synthetic and have not had issues with engine wear or oil consumption (admittedly, this is not high mileage). My 2003 MG LM has only about 6K miles so no long term use to report yet. Sorry I cannot offer more help.

To All I measured the TPS which seemed OK but didn't play with adjustments as I wanted to have Mike Rich diagnose it since he custom mapped the PC (along with building out the engine with pistons, cam etc.). But, as it turns out I was looking in the wrong places. My issue turned out to be a cracked exhaust header - probably a coincidence that had nothing to do with washing. I found this out in reading another posting that described the exact symptoms I was having - but due to the cracked header. Thanks to all who offered helpful suggestions. That is what makes this a great forum!

Glad to hear you are back in business Docc. The photo evidence of your problem is pretty compelling! If your repair goes is anything like my Duc, don't be surprised if you need another bleed to get the last of the fine air bubbles out once they get a chance to form bigger bubbles. Happy and safe riding.

This forum is a great help. I have been trying to figure out why my LM started running rougher (especially at 4000 RPM as described in the original post) after I washed it while cold and went for a ride afterward. I assumed something electrical got wet and checked all the usual suspects to no avail. After reading this I looked and, sure enough, my right header is cracked! My bike has only about 6K miles and I am hard pressed to imagine washing while cold then riding did this - probably more of a coincidence. I remembered seeing some heavy duty "crack proof" headers and after some searching found this link at GuzziTech in case anyone is interested. http://www.guzzitech.com/store/GT-R-Hdrs.html My 2003 has the cross over pipe in front so I will probably go the welding route and see how that works for now.

Docc Sorry for the slow response - It's been a busy few days with other priorities; 1- Dust seal can go on afterward. 2- Use the assembly lube that comes with the rebuild kit. I just lubed with brake fluid and wish used the grease. Note that many greases react badly to brake fluid so use only the special stuff. 3- You can also pry the metal ring out carefully so as not to damage the cylinder bore. I used a very small flat head screw driver to get behind the ring. Good luck!

Docc I recently had to rebuild my Duc's clutch master which uses similar Brembo parts as the Guzzi (both 12 mm). In my case there was a metal ring that press-fit into the bore to hold everything together (as opposed to a "C" clip). If you happen to run into this, they are a PIA to install without alignment problems or pushing in too far. I finally figured out to use a socket that just fit into the ID of the bore and gently tapped with a wooden mallet to seat it. I am sure Greg has plenty of good advise as well.

I am fortunate like others to own a few bikes. For me (so far) the Ducati ST is the best all around sport-touring bike in that it definitely handles the twisties while being quite capable as an all day touring bike. My 2002 ST4s came with higher spec suspension and hard bags. I have added a Corbin seat, higher bars, heated grips, etc. for comfort. Plus DUC's have sweet sounding motors like MG's. Took a week trip from NJ south last spring - followed the Blue Ridge to the Tail of the Dragon (Tenn) and back. Great fun! So why own the MG LeMans? For one its is simply one of the best looking bikes to my eyes. I love the relative simplicity (push-rods vs desmo) so I can work on it and that its equally at home in relaxed cruising as it is tackling some twisties. I really like the look of air-cooled motors on bikes - no radiator or associated plumbing. I call the V11 a "Harley done right" in that it captures a lot of traditional looks and qualities of things we love about bikes while delivering great sporty performance - it goes, it stops, it turns! (no offense to the thousands of Harley lovers.... :-) My LeMans is still a work in process. So far I've done the Mike Rich built motor with pistons, cam, porting, rods, etc. as part of the rebuild from a oil filter coming loose. Ergos got attention with a Corbin saddle, forward pegs and Cycle Cat risers. Waiting for a new shock from HyperPro. The bike continues to grow on me and might one day be the touring choice - shaft drive is a nice convenience for sure. Regarding the question that started this thread - my riding buddies are very happy with their do-all bikes like the Ducati Multi Strada and the new Triumph Tiger. At 5'6" these bikes are too tall for me but I believe they deserve consideration. Best of luck in your search - these are the "good problems" as the saying goes.

Mine were a bit stubborn first time. I found gently prying with an open-end wrench also works.

Thanks Brian - I have not worked on the TPS before but perhaps its time to learn and check it out. I did use a garden hose (as opposed to high pressure sprayer) but your suggestion certainly fits the symptoms I am experiencing.

I washed the bike before riding the other day and noticed immediately it vibrates more throughout the RPM range than before the wash. Its especially rough at 4K RPM where I think I hear the air box resonating louder that the factory Ti exhaust. I washed when completely cold and, other than towel drying the body parts, let the bike heat and wind dry the rest. All connectors under that tank have been greased with dielectric grease so they should be OK. I have about 350 miles on it since the rough running started and gas mileage seems unaffected ( I typically get about 40 MPG). The bike continues to pull strong to redline - although the lesser refinement certainly detracts from the feel. I checked the throttle body connections at engine and to air box and they seem fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated as I am completely stumped as to where to start to look for a cause of this.

Mike Rich is very much in the business in his new shop in Newfoundland, PA - great ride through some twisties to get there to boot! I concur with the other's comments regarding his pistons as my bike has been running excellent with absolutely no hint of detonation during the hottest summer days (note: I am about to post a rough running issue that does not have anything to do with Mike's work). FWIW - we got 82 peak rear wheel HP on Mike's conservative dyno after rebuilding the motor with his pistons, stage 1 porting, larger valves, Megacycle cam, PC III and factory Ti cans. My request was for very usable mid-range power which I got, but the bike pulls hard to redline in every gear. In case you don't have his reach number, its (570) 676-4785.

For your consideration - you may want to look at the Avon Storm ST as well. I had the Pilot Roads and really liked them. The Avon's are equally as good in handling and ride a little smoother and supposed to last a little longer (I got 7-8K out of the Pilots). What really sold me on Avons is they replaced the rear under warranty after I got a puncture in a relatively new tire. Warrant covers up to 1MM wear - I had about 2MM and they still replaced the tire. All this happened through my local bike shop who gives me competitive prices and great service (not a MG dealer unfortunately but a good source for general needs)

As a father and fellow rider as well as having a son that rides, your experience is close to home for many of us. Wishing all in your family, especially your son, a continued recovery from this ordeal. Best Regards

Apparently the older Hyperpro shock was actually supplied by Willbers but that relationship has been terminated. Fortunately my OEM Sachs is working OK (at least as much as it does work) so I am not off the road waiting. Based on what other forum members have commented it certainly would be nice to upgrade though. I did inquire through Todd when I started the process and don't believe he has any in stock.

I have placed an order through EPM Performance here in the US some months ago for the new Hyperpro 3D shock and offered my bike as the US "test mule" since EPM is less than 1 hour from my house in Northern New Jersey. Unfortunately we are making very slow progress as the factory in the Netherlands needs a locally available bike to fit the shock. I would be most appreciative if one of "the flock" in the Netherlands (or surrounding area) might be able to accommodate this need. Hyperpro is located at 4251 Werkendam. The person to talk to is Jan Belder, Sales Manager at +31-183-678867 I am working with Klaus Huenecke at EPM should you need to reference that. Thank you in advance for any help that mighty be offered. The new 3D shock looks promising and we can certainly use additional options to replace OEM shocks. Regards