Guzzi2Go

That means the regulator will shut off 0,1V later and the voltage on the battery will be 0,1V higher.

With "special failure case" I meant the one where regulator partially fails. so the lamp still works, but the rest of the circuitry does not. As a test, perhaps the output diode test Kiwi_Roy suggested a long time ago - one way conductivity between yellow (alternator) and red (output) leads. Provided you're well equipped (no pun intended) and posses a regulated voltage supply in addition to diode tester (connected to red and case), you should be able to hear a beep once input tension (black) drops below 13.8V or so, according to the schematic and data Kiwi_Roy posted earlier. And if you want to include the effects of paranormal, you can do the test above with the supply connected to light switch relay (red-black) and the diode tester to red-green and battery negative (F3 fuse removed) . See if there is a difference (voltage drop) and it takes more Volts for the regulator to shut off.

"Reference" is a misnomer here. Assuming Kiwi_Roy schematic is correct, the "voltage reference" is provided by zener diodes internal to the regulator. The 12V comes from the battery via F3/30A fuse, zero or ground goes via chassis (heat sink) and directly to battery negative (black cable bolted to regulator's heat sink). Both red-green and red-black wires from the regulator are positive (12V). Blue line is the return line (negative) for the charging lamp. Once pulled low, the lamp goes on. The lamp will flicker or be permanently on whenever battery's tension is above the preset regulator's tension. On low/idle RPMs AND full battery the regulator may not achieve "reference tension", hence the flicker.

#MeToo

Of course you'd be allowed to build something with a brand new frame. The downside however is that you need to meet all the requirements valid at the date the frame is produced and that is difficult to achieve in a shed. Sometimes even factories struggle. If you take a frame from 70-ies, you need to meet noise/pollution requirements of the era and these were far less stringent than contemporary ones. Opposite example is replacing frame on a new bike (i.e. after a crash) and salvaging the rest. Some guy was selling his 2015 Aprilia V4 for small change as a racetrack only bike - frame replaced but laws changed in the meantime, thus no longer "registrable". Germany is no country for choppers, kit cars and similar. People that insist on having them must have thick skin and wallets.

Did you try Stein Dinse? They don't say they are not available, just that there is a long tead time (2-8 weeks) - https://www.stein-dinse.biz/Moto-Guzzi/Motor/Ventildeckel/-dichtungen/Ventildeckel-V11-Sport-1999-2001-grau::6662.html .

It does not. Unless you ride on ice.

Correct. It is the brake that upset the bike. The weaving or "countersteering" is just a consequence here.

So the LED lamp is rated to 25/50W, regular H4 lamp is rated 55/60W. Former costs 75$, latter ~3-4$. Is it worth it? "Heathwise", the wattage tells you what gets more hot. Obviously, regular lamps run hotter.

What is "Open Current Voltage"?

Willy or willy?

I usually go for Aral's 102 octane or 98 octane "super" when not available, hoping to reduce pinging. Not sure it actually helps. There was a big debate about which motors can digest E10 back when it was introduced, every manufacturer published a list. As I can recall, Guzzi made no statements. For my 1981 Honda it was stated that I should not use E10. So I don't use it in my bikes. Although, I am not really sure what makes Aral's 102 octane fuel a 102 octane fuel. I cheerfully use E10 in my cars. Not religious about it. Not religious about anything actually.

But that can't be right, can it? The Q3 requires positive GS of 2-4V to conduct, this will never be the case with the Z2 as shown. Also the SCRs seem to be wrong way round and unprotected. The Q2 seems to be more or less permanently on, driven by the alternator's negative half-period... Has anyone tried simulating this circuit in e.g. SPICE?

The lamp is controlled by the regulator, not ECU. So no, ECU ground is not the culprit. Flicker will be back! ;-)

The light goes on when battery's voltage is higher than regulator's, which would typically be the case when the regulator breaks down (in a special way, have to add). Atypical case, and probably the reason why we often see it flicker, is that at idle RPM regulator's voltage is lower than battery's, especially after a vigorous ride when the battery is fully charged. Alternator's voltage is merely 15V@1k RPM and it produces ~10A. If you consider typical voltage drops over diodes/regulators and the fact that you need about 10A to run the lamps, pumps, injectors, at this point, battery will be feeding the regulator, not the other way around. There! I said it!

Hi Tomek! Hard to read, you may need to explain terms such as "interruptions" (misfire?), "crucifix" (exhaust cross-over?), "exhalation" (exhaust?). What were you trying here "The interruptions were with the end of the exhalation, the crucifix and the complete exhalation"? Running the bike with only parts of the exhaust? Also, what ECU are you running? Think there is no support for lambda probe in standard installation. As for the consumption, 7l/100km is normal. 8l/100km is probably also OK for a city ride. I managed to do a bit under 7l/100km on my last tour, however, my bike is on a lean side (think they all are, or risk problems passing TüV/MoT), so it is likely that any intervention will result in higher consumption.

Nothing flows continuously here, especially if no other resistors than coil's own (in the whereabouts of 0,5-2 ohm) are used. Coil's primary circuit is armed (grounded) just a few milliseconds before the spark fires and its inductance controls max current till wanted "state of charge" is achieved. Timing is calculated so that in the worst case no excessive current flows. BTW, the fuse for this circuit (Injectors/Coils/Pump) is 10A. The pump will consume good deal of that, so what remains must be enough for both (or all four). A permanent primary circuit short, provided the fuse does not blow, would possibly impede all other consumers in the circuit (injectors, pump, other coil). The coil would get hot, but there would definitely be no firing on its cylinder if it would get that far at all. Must say that I also don't see how the engine would run on both cylinders for a while no matter which scenario is considered.

The schema shows no earthing. All you have is a red-black cable powering the coils and green (left) and green-black (right) cable into the ECU. That's it. Things to check would be shorts in the HT cable and the plug itself.

Stock position is behind oil cooler and between cylinder heads. At least on Le Mans.Nice and cozy, I'd say. Anyway, even at 30°C the thing is rated 15A. However, it could well be that the info is simply caca del toro printed on the box in order to make the product look, er... "professional" (lacking better word).

Just looking at the Ta to Io curve above and have to say that this regulator cannot tolerate more than continuous 10A at ambient temperatures it is typically exposed to. Although I did not actually measure, I think I can safely assume that the ambient temperature V11's regulator is exposed to is at least in the range of 60-80°C. 35A seems to be what rectifiers can handle for a short period of time. Although, it is a bit unclear what "No additional heat sink" means. Is it a heatsink in addition to the already existing one, or is the data for the semiconductors only? One way or the other, the thing is not designed to operate at >80°C.

I don't/did not. The thing is, that semiconductors can run currents order of magnitude larger than rated, given small enough duty cycle. For example, 1N4001 rated at 1A continuous, can run as much as 30A for a short period of time. As for the fuse, a slow blow fuse is also capable of tolerating more than rated current for some time, for example 6 times rated current for 20-100ms.

What you are missing is regulator's internal resistance, but primarily the fact that battery acts as a capacitor in the circuit. Or you are simply using the term "internal resistance" wrongly. Regulator's internal resistance coupled with the fact that power input is not infinite is the reason you see tension drop below rated 14.0-14.6V when significant current flows. Even here I'd put bias on finite power, rather than internal resistance. One of the key features of a good tension source is low (ideally zero) internal resistance. Opposite for a current source. There internal resistance is infinite (ideally) or high (realistically). More likely the alternator goes out of puff before regulator's internal resistance kicks in. When a capacitor is present in the circuit, current is direct function of its state of charge, not capacitor's internal (parasitic) resistance, which is theoretically infinite. In a circuit consisting of an empty capacitor and resistor, current is at first limited by the resistor according to Ohm's law. As the time goes by and the capacitor charges, the current drops asymptotically to zero. It is not different with a (rechargeable) battery in place of a capacitor. The only difference between a capacitor and a battery is the method of storing charge. The energy needed to drive the chemical process in a battery can be compared with the energy needed to polarize dielectric in a capacitor. The effect can at best be named parasitic resistance, using the term internal resistance is wrong and misleading.

That is not due to increased internal resistance, but state of charge (U=Q/C, Charge/Capacity). The reason why the current went down from 8A@12V to 300mA@15 is because the battery was charged and its tension went up. Consequently, less volts remained available for pushing current through the circuit. Ic = (Ur-Ub)/(Rb+Rc). Lowercase R,B,C being regulator, battery, circuit.

Well, if we want to go nitpicking, mentioning battery's internal resistance is also out of context. It is very small, in the mOhm range, so even if it would be changing drastically (factor 2x, 3x or 10x, which it does not), it would still have practically no influence on the current flowing through the battery. Internal resistance plays a role only in short circuit scenarios, where it is comparable with applied load. What acts as a main current limiter in the charging-battery circuit is the battery's tension. Once battery reaches regulator's cutt-off point, no current flows into the battery.