Guzzi2Go

The nuts (if one may call them so) of these screws are embedded in the plastic body holding the lamps together. Even the slightest idea of a torque usually causes the plastic body to crack, leaving the nuts on the screws with nothing to hold them. You need to work "from bellow". I suggest you remove speedo cable and two screws holding the tach/speedo unit to your bike, flip it upside down, remove the speedo/tacho screws holding the plastic cup, and remove the cup. This way you can use a pair of pliers to hold the nuts in question, and back the screws out. The lamp body is of very poor quality plastic. Expect that the new one will not last too long either.

Good idea posting jokes, however, maybe a dedicated joke thread would be even better? If you share my view, just post them here. Here is one of the few I can tell in (my broken) English. A priest and a shepherd were competing in a quiz. Suprisingly for a match between a scholar/priest and, what everyone expected, a simple shepherd, it was a pretty even fight that could have only be resolved by a "sudden death" task. So the moderator announced the following task: -Each of you will write a short poem, couple of verses, and the audience will decide by the loudness of their applause, who is the winner of this quiz. The catch is that the poem must contain word "Timbuktu". After 5 minutes the priest is asked to read his "work" out loud. So he goes: - I was father all my life - Had no children, had no wife - I read my bible through and through - On my way to Timbuktu. And the audience cheered loudly, thinking this cannot be topped. However, for the fairness sake, the shepherd had to read his poem as well. So after the noise settled, he reads: - When Tim and I to Brisbane went - We met three ladies, cheap to rent - As they were three and we were two - I booked one, and Tim-booked-two!

However, be aware that they cannot fling any of this "cool stuff" in Germany, 'cause TÜV won't let them put it on their bikes. So they export...

I read somewhere that a motor with split inlet and exhaust tracts is considered as two engines sharing the same crankshaft. Balancing the two seems to be an issue and extremely sensitive to external conditions. Apparently already a slight crosswind leads to difference in balance on the lee- and windward side.

Welcome, welcome! BTW, the source of information is the workshop manual, available on: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_...11_en_de_ne.pdf (Section P, page 5 - or page 379 of the document in question)

The "long one" is ours. WTS05.

So I did the mod too. Squeezed some CPU thermal grease into the temp sensor hole. Took it for a spin today, starting with a slow, city ride (low rev, low gear), with a bit of 100 km/h left-right-left... General impression is that the bike now runs smoother. Especially the city ride seems to be much more comfortable, as the bike does not tend to jump on every slight motion of throttle. Devil will know if it is a cure or a placebo?

Whoaaa! Your days are numbered!

Ok, I opened. Found nothing! From the material available on the internet, and on the little sticker on the side of the instrument, the "contagiri" should point to 11,000 rpm when receiving 366 12V (+/- tolerance) pulses per second. I applied my pulse generator on it. Nothing. It looks like it has rattled itself to death.

Exactly the same happened to me on Sunday, with the exception that the tach did not come back to life again. Now it is just plain dead. BTW, it is a white background Veglia instrument. If I can recall correctly, it is "powered" by a rectangular pulse (works like a counter/frequency meter). Where does the pulse come from, not sure. Will open and find out.

It appears that paint codes are Guzzi's best guarded secret. You might inquire at Langley VA, since my mail to Moto Guzzi customer service was answered with: "Unfortunately, we cannot provide with the information since Moto Guzzi does not provide information about paint codes". BTW, I am looking for a paint code(s) for metallic red/gray combination. Just like in the avatar. So if anyone knows...

No problemo!

Hi, we in Germany bought this and it fits: http://www.askubal.de/shop/productdetail.p...5&PGID=1300

Well, this pretty much describes how I would understand significant (although I mentioned I will not say a word about it ). Wouldn't the proper term for what is dragging through this thread be noticeable?

Ok, I've been following this thread with interest, so here my If anyone wants or needs to comment, please go ahead. Keen to learn. I'd say the sensor in question is in the place where our choke button(s) used to be. That said, I believe it acts more like an on/off switch than a fine regulator for fuel supply when the head temperature is between 90 and 91°C. As there is no contact between the sensor tip and the head, the sensor actually measures the temperature of the heads SURFACE rather then the "CORE". Remember, the sensor is attached to quite a large cooler (head's fins), by a large metal screw/thread (heat conductor) and separated from the head "inners" by air (heat insulator). Could one explain the heat "soak back" effect by the fact that the sensor cooled of quicker than the engine itself? Few mililitres of oil "down the hatch" would probably improve the situtation. CPU grease is probably even better. Here the datasheet of the sensor: http://home.planet.nl/%7Eworld.traveller/pics/wts05%20v4.pdf

Er..., actually you DID NOT! Had to search I mean... The info matress provided contains all that is necessary to do the calculation. Here the results: So, the difference in volumes at 20 (room temperature) and 80 (almost boiling) degrees °C is 0.15 litres. That'd be ~5 oz US or ~5.2oz UK for metrically impaired (or is it challenged? ) Or 5 shots, 3.4 jiggers, very few hogsheads (5*10E-4), roughly one UK gill, or 0.0009 barrels for you oil tycoons. About what's significant or not, mumm's the word. I learned "significant" has different meanings in different cultures. P.S. I am still working on my sarcasm. Hope nobody gets offended. Cheers.

According to the wiring diagram: http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/schematic...9_V11_sport.gif you might want to check: 1. Neutral switch 2. Sidestand relay 3. Safety ignition switch (17 - Clutch on the diagram) - didn't even know there is one.

Ok, I educated myself a bit about Dyna coils and they do have resistance in the range of 0.5 to 5 ohms. http://www.dynojet.co.uk/dynatek/ignition.htm There are two ways of interpreting your measurument results: 1. The coil is shorted - hence 0V drop on the coil itself, 12V drop on the "ground" resistance. Should draw fair amount of current (>10A), and things are getting hot. Dangerous! 2. The coil is OK, the grounding is not. Too high resistance, which is limiting the current (hence energy) through the coil. Measure resistance to the ground (negative battery terminal). Try to scratch to the bare metal to get the values as low as they go. However, you are probably right. Lack of trigger impulse either from the box itself, or from the ignition distributor is probably causing the problem.

If both bikes use same ignition coil type you should not be getting different results when using a voltmeter. Check the coil resistance with ohmmeter (ignition off, across the +/- terminals). If the result is not zero or close to it (compare with coil resistance on your bike), measure resistance between the coil's negative terminal and the frame (negative terminal on the battery). From measurement on your bike you get 10V tension drop on the coil, 2V on the connection to ground. Usually resistance to ground is a single digit ohm value (less than 1 is considered a good one). A bit puzzling that you read 2V on it, as it indicates that there are 2A of current @1ohm running through your coils. If that is how it is designed(), that would mean your coil should measure ~5 ohm and it will be difficult to determine if your friend's coils are busted (short circuited) using ohmmeter. As I can recall there is a whole science out there on how to measure small resistances. Anyway, if you can read 12V on the negative terminal, check the coil-frame connection. Should have really low resistance, practically nothing. If not, clean up the contact area. If you measured more than 5 ohm on your "healthy coil" (more like 50 or even 500), I'd suggest you clean the contact areas on both of your bikes.

Here is another silly one. Would it be possible to just pull the "safety cage" over the shaft with everything still bolted on? Just to release the three screws holding it and then slide it backwards till the nipple is visible?

Consider yourself lucky! You could have been riding a 1980 Honda CBX 1000. You'd have 24 valves to change now.

I'd say quite a large fairing to start with. But what do I know.

If I may add to what Pete is saying, although not based on 1st hand experience. I sold my first Guzzi (Mille GT) to a guy who's timing gears wrecked his engine. Apparently the alloy gears wore far quicker than a chain would, dispersing the particles throughout the engine in the process. As I read in other forums (Honda CX 500 related, where loose cam chains tend to chew on the engine casing doing the same thing as the cam gears on Guzzi), it is simply not worth it to attempt to clean up the engine (or was it impossible?). Hence the new/old bike, or 2700 on the pain scale. From other things that I read, Guzzi cam chain has a decent life span and is fairly easy to access and replace, unlike engine out of the frame job on CX 500, where they last half as long as on Guzzi's. Can't see why would I be needing timing gears. Now we got off topic a bit, sorry about that rossoandy. Hope it's a quick fix. Inexpensive too. You'll burn those fireplaces next time.

I fixed a couple of threads on my Honda CX-500 using Helicoil. Some of the fixes went well, some not so. What I learned in the process is that for holes that you fix and then leave alone for a long time (like engine hanger bolt or similar), Helicoil is ok. For things that are screwed in and out frequently (like spark plugs, valve cover studs, etc.) not so. I mean, it still kind of works, but it is not "as good as new". The inserts tend to "fall out" after a while, and I dare not tighten the screws to originally recommended minimum torque. On the other hand, the inserts are cheap, so as far as the new thread is ok, you may just put in a new one in case you drag the old one out. Timesert (http://www.timesert.com) might be better choice for these kind of holes, however, I can't recommend it, since I did not try it out.

You can find a few videos comparing braking with and without ABS here: http://www.versicherung-und-verkehr.de/ind...;cmid;7;crid;55