slowkitty

Thanks for the input. Managed to source a set of V11 plates and all, with new bolts and plates . I will see what is the condition of the Scura clutch. The new flywheel and the starter ring are not that readily available. Intermediate ring and pressure plates are easier. The RAM kit is available with a bit of waiting time. Thanks for the input, gents.

Dear Gents, Thanks for the input. Just want to clear a doubt. it seems that there is some indication that the flywheel from the Centauro / V1100 Sporti series can be used. If I were to use that, I need to install the clutch hub (or clutch boss) for the Centauro / V1100 Sporti? Can I then use the starte ring (aka toothed rim) from a V11 Sport or must I use the one from the Centauro / V1100 Sporti series? Doing research now, and my head is spinning with flywheels/toothed rim etc.... Thanks

Great list by Camn ... isn't a longer pushrod (01 08 57 30) from a twin-plater needed? Cheers

Just an update .. MG Cycle wrote to me to state that the RAM kit is available say within a month. I wonder if the RAM kit use the stock clutch plate? Or its own which is unobtainable? decisions decisions decisions ....

A 2002 Scura .. with the grenade-primed single plate. I am looking to convert to something safer. I just learnt from Gutsibits that the RAM kit is a thing of the past. So can anyone suggest where can I pick up a twin-plater clutch? Cheers

So the summary of the fix is (1) RAM kit or (2) twin-plater conversion. Does anyone know the estimate cost of the twin-plater solution? I do not seem to be able to find a ready kit available, and it thus seems that one has to collate the entire parts for a twin-plater to install. Cheers

I was looking at the RAM kit off the MG Cycle, being a Scura owner contemplating a clutch change. New to this topic, if the aluminium flywheel is the weak link on the single plater, then is there a simpler solution of changing to a steel one? Or that flywheel does not exist? Cheers

When I wanted replacement Ohlins for my Scura, I approached my local Ohlins agent who checked and told me that these were specially made for Guzzi.

What is the official Guzzidiag cable?

It seems that this Latvia chap got everything. http://www.ebay.com/itm/6way-AMP-Superseal-1-5-Series-Waterproof-Sealed-Connector-Kit-/251332613784?hash=item3a84975698&vxp=mtr No affiliation.

Hi, In the course of balancing my Goose, I realised that the V11 does now come with the nipple screw that attaches to the cylinders for balancing. Fortunately my mate's Carbtune had a plastic screw that fit. This screw came stock with the US bikes ... but it sells for 27 euros (mega ouch). Are there anyone with alternative (online) suppliers? I am tempted to custom one but would like to exhaust the possibilities first.

What you need for the breakout harness is the Delphi Metri-Pack 150 3 way. There are also AMP superseal connectors around as well.

Press hard on the cowl and turn the key.

Just an update. The tacho is back. Turned out that I conserved the battery by pulling out the headlight fuse and that killed the tacho. Of course went for a ride and now found that the speedo is dead. I expected it to go ever since I had the dreaded swinging needle symptom. Will likely install a TLM replacement ... http://www.tlm.nl/en/news/general/warehouse/angle-drive-replacement-v11/

Does yours come with the factory bubbling paint? Pretty common for the Scura.

Do you mind positing a few pictures? Would like to see a near-new Scura.

Is this true? Tach shares the same relay as the headlight?

Hi guys .... Here's how it went .... Cleaned the throttle bodies, especially the spring mechanisms. Also cleaned the air bleed screws which were sooty. Also cleaned the plugs. I didn't have the stock so ran Bosch W7DC. Got the 150mV and the 520mV. The bike runs better, at 1/2 turn air bleed. At fully closed the idling is bad. At 3/4 turns the bike seems to falter intermittently. Thanks Roy for the air bleed opening tip. It is contrary to the sticky post procedure but seems to work for me. 2 main problems: 1. I lost my tacho. Totally dead. Will read up and maybe get one. 2. I failed to balance the cylinders. More suction on right as shown by the carbtune. On the Twinmax the deviation is less but visible. I tried to adjust the balance using the air bleed screws and it affected the idle badly. Using the syncro knob also affected the idle but did not affect the readings on the carbtune. I am stumped, but at least now I seemed to have gotten the idle set up ok. Any views?

Hi, Using a Twinmax. So here goes my very brief checklist with a few questions, please feel free to comment if I err in any way: 1. Back off RHS throttle idle screw completely, no contact. Choke also disconnected. 2. Disconnect the rod at RHS ball joint. 3. Get 150mV on ignition on only, no start. Qn: what position should the LHS throttle idle screw be? Just touching or no contact? 4. Close fully both air bleed screws. Re-connect syncro rod. Qn: Does it matter how many turns into the ball joint or it does not matter so long as the rod is secured and locked? 5. Start the bike and balance the throttle using TwinMax. Just work on the balance and not on the idling, that will come later. 6. Use LHS throttle idle screw only to get the 521 mV. Qn: This is to be done with bike started or no? 7. Open air bleed to say 1/2 to 3/4 to get 1100 - 1200 rpm - Qn: must be the same extent of turns both sides? Will this affect the balance? 8. If cannot attain 1/2 turn, close LHS throttle idle by 15 mV increment until 1/2 turn is reached. 9. Check balance at 2000 - 3000 idle using syncro knob. 10. Check the idle balance again, adjust with LHS throttle idle screw if necessary. Anything else? Thanks loads, guys.

Making a second attempt this weekend. During my last attempt, I tried to use the syncro knob to balance the throttle bodies but it did not seem to have that effect. Any idea as to what could be the cause of that? Just want to have a checklist to ensure that I got the parameters right. Thanks

Posting a picture of the connector on a 2003 Scura.

Thanks for the encouragement. Do I need the bike warmed up to find the 150mV and the 521mV? I thought that a cold bike is alright for that. I understand that the throttle-sync needs a warm bike. May I ask why do you need both throttle stop screws? I read that the right one can be left backed-off, and the left used to adjust. Would not the left just hold the adjustment by itself? Thanks. I am looking to cleaning the throttle bodies as much as I can. trying how to remove the manifolds without removing the airbox, bodies etc. More fiddling this weekend.

The initial reading was 800 mV when I explored this, with the bike not started. This was the reading with the syncro knob tweaked previously. The throttle idle screws were virgin and untouched from factory, judging from the paint on the screws. On what you say, shouldn't I attain the 521mV reading only after reconnecting the syncro connecting rod, after getting the 150 mV TPS reading? My trouble seems to be that I can get the 512mV, but the idle is not stable. How do I get a stable idle? Finally, how often does the Throttle Position Sensor go bad? Thanks.

Hi, Thanks for the answers. Qn 4 was incomplete, it should be "4. Will disengaging the throttle idle screws on both sides in any way affect the function of the synchronization knob, or the 2 system are linked?". On the syncro rod being off the "correct" setting, I thought that depending how much one thread into the ball joint, surely that would alter the length of the rod and in some way affect the butterfly openings? Hence disconnecting / connecting will introduce some alteration in settings? There is also some throttle "sticking" that I am experiencing. This also meant that I can never return to the 151 mV that I obtained at first go. Is that normal, or I have to pay attention to some other aspects of the throttle system e.g. cables etc first? I am contemplating removing the throttle bodies and giving them a good clean. Thanks, guys.

Dear Gents, My mate and I are attempting TPS setting and throttle-sync on a V11 that does not run very well now. The bike in question has a mileage of 15K and valves had just been adjusted cold. The main thing is that the bike cannot hold idle when cold, and exhaust smells rich. Sooty plugs seem to confirm that. The air bleed screws were 3/4 out when I checked. I managed to attain the 150mV and 521 mv settings. But the bike will not idle well; in fact worse than before I started. Interestingly, when started, the tacho will show a nil reading for about 2 seconds before the needle jumps to 1100 and then it will not sustain without the use of the throttle. It seems to me that the syncronization knob at the rod connecting the throttle bodies had been messed with in the past and may be a source of the troubles. I have several questions: 1. Will disconnecting the connecting rod from the ball joint at the right side of the bike in any way upset any prior settings? Conversely, does reconnecting it in any way affect the throttle bodies? 2. Assuming one messes with the knob while the bike is without the engine running, what is the effect? 3. Assuming that the bike is running and at idle, what is the effect of turning the knob? 4. Will disengaging the throttle idle screws on both sides in any way affect the function of the synchronization knob, or the 2 system are linked? Please forgive me if the questions seems noob in nature. Just started fiddling with the bike and want to know the exact function of the syncronization knob. Thanks