El_Gringo

Hi all I have been having this problem for so time and whilst browsing this morning I thought I'd add my 1p worth! My bike would faulter around 3 to 3.5k, especialy turning at junctions and going round roundabouts. I thought my bike had been tinkered with before I bought it as it had race cans, K & N hi flows and the guy I bought it from told me it had a Power Commander. Like a fool, I didn't check it was still fitted-I guess he removed it a flogged it 'cos it weren't there! So with all the other guff fitted I suspected it wouldn't run as it should. After much procrastonation on my part i bit the bullet and set about a factory reset. I refitted the factory air box, set the valve gaps, bought a manometer and set up the TB's - followed the guides in these haloed pages - and now there in NO cough at all. I am on a completely standard set-up, perhaps not the most exciting, but it runs well!

Ah it seems I have misled you all.... The tubes which are connected to the head ports are actually each end of the same tube, so the reason why the ball is wiggling is beacause as Rach points out, the pistons are out of phase with each other by x number of deg. As the revvs increase this oscillation stabilises. It seems this type of balance tool is quite easy to use - when you read the instructions properly! I reserve the right to say I have completely balanced the TB's until I get a few road tests under my belt but I followed the instructions to the letter and the bike seemed to follow them too! Thanks one and all, if anyone is interested I bought it on Ebay under 'manometer' Cheers Still not sure what to do with the RHS idle screw though

I have been trying to check the balance of the TB's on my V11. I followed the instructions posted, but a couple of points raised their heads. What happens to the right side idle screw after adjustment. Presumably it is now superfluous? I guess as the bodies should now be balanced any adjustment to the lefthand side TB should drive the right hand side by the same amount. If so - begs the question - Why is it there? Is it the motorcycles appendix? Whlist checking the balance..... I bought a balance kit on Ebay it comprises of two lengths of tubing the same lenght and diameter, with a ballbearing in each. The tube is wrapped into a loop so at rest the two balls rest at the bottom of the loop. When the engine runs the air moving passed the balls moves them slightly, if the TB's are not balanced more air moves passed one ball than the other, thus the balls are displaced . The TB's are said to be balanced when the two balls line up. I noticed one ball was oscillating while the other was stationary - has anyone else used this type of kit? Is my oscillating ball normal!? Should they both oscillate? Wot d'ya think?

I did have a real no low beam problem. I found the switch was corroded inside. I opened it up and cleande the contacts. On reassembly I found all was good Hope this helps..............

I don't want to sound all contraversial, but I just removed the K&N's and refitted the original airbox. The bike runs much better now and the cough I had at around 3.5 to 4k RPM seems to have gone. I need to re balance the carbs, but all in all the bike is MUCH easier to ride. So there, nurdy, nurdy, ner! Ner!

Hi one and all......... I have now fixed the starter motor and I came up against a wierd one. The magnets had come off so I tracked a new housing complete with magnets from Woods Auto in the UK. Unfortunatly, they sent me a Clockwise housing and I needed an Anticlockwise one. They sent me the correct one and I'm back on the road! Note the anti clock housing I bought has the new clips to hold the magnets in place, £12 well spent! - A new starter motor is £240 So an easy fix, just remember to be sure they give you an ANTI-clock housing! Cheers

I can't comment on compatibilities, but if you need spares for the valeo starter, try ............ Wood Auto Supplies Ltd Cromwell Works Colne Road Huddersfield HD1 3ES United Kingdom Head Office: Telephone: 01484 428261 Fax: 01484 434933 Email: sales@woodauto.co.uk UK Sales: Telephone: 01484 439000 Freefax: 0800 137012 I got a new starter body c/w magnets £11 + VAT they had all the other parts, solenoid, leaver brushes etc as well.

Started the bike yesterday and the starter made a very odd mechanical screech! On investigation 3 of the magnets in the starter motor have come loose, no problem I'll glue them back..... But I can't get the rotor out to clean up the inside of the body before I glue the magnets in place. Anyone done this before?

I have looked at the parts manual and the hose in question is not there, but the screws whick blank off the inlet manifolds on my bike are shown instead, so I guess it is not needed on my bike?! When others have balanced their TB's, did you have this hose? If not, how did you attach the vacuum gauges? I didn't see any nipples in the parts manual for this purpose. When I bought the bike it had Quill race cans fitted and the guy gave me the original, unused cans. I fitted the standard ones as the R/C's were far too loud for the quite street I live in! I don't know if there has been any remapping done, I am guessing it has a standard ECU. I though about cheating the TPS, but of course the ignition profile will also be affected. Perhaps I should just refit the air box and be done with it! Cheers

Hi all, I have had an annoying 'cough' when the bike warms up since I got the bike a year ago. Somtimes it does it more than others. I noticed the rubber hoses connecting the TB to the cyl head looked cracked, so I replaced them. This only seemed to make the problem worse! Having read a thread where someone had a similar problem, I have decided to check the basic set up, TPS and balance the TB's etc......... I should mention, mine came with K&N filters fitted, although i do have the old air box. As I don't have the side panels i thought I'd set it up as standard, if it still coughs, I'd fit the air box, if that fixes it, I'd look for some side panels! - I quite like to look of the K&N's. After reading some set up preceedures posted I have noticed the hose is missing between the two cyl head inlet ports Mine has a screw fitted where it looks like on other bikes a hose should be. What does it do? Should I worry it isn't there? Answers on a postcard to..........

I recently overhauled the bevel box on my V11 Sport. I filled it with RedLine shockproof heavy and have ridden for about 600 miles with no problems. I recently rode a 200 mile round trip , but half way I stopped to check my tires after hitting a rock! I noticed oil had leaked out of the drive box via the input shaft seal. I managed to get to a Halfords to get some more oil, as I had no idea if there was any in it at that time! I topped it up, with very little required, and so far, after about 70 to 100 miles i have not seen much leakage. Did anyone discover why we somtimes get some oil leaking. I suspect I overfilled the box to start with - I did get some leakage through ther breather after I filled box and put the bike back on the road - and when it got warm to blew trough the seal. Or, there is a collar which is behind the nut which holds all the input shaft gubbins together. I tried to order a new one when I overhauled the box, but it never came so I used the old one. I wonder if this collar is worn? I found on my BSA that oil seals can wear a groove in rotating shafts, I've had to replace the main and lay shafts in the gearbox beacuse of this. I plan to have a ride out to Brooklands for the centinary run this weekend so I will check it again then.

Well yipee do, I'm back on two wheels. The bevel box is back together and seems to be oil tight. I got all the bearings from Jack at BRT and all seems to be OK - no funny noises I had to grind the nut off of the bevel drive the same as everyone else. I greased the UJ's until they made a poping noise and black goo came out. They felt alot smoother after a good greasing. I have read conflicting report on how to grease the UJ's so I'm sure I will find out soon enough if I've damaged the seals! Thanks to all for help and assistance Cheers

How did you get on with the UJ's. I am looking to get a pair myself, but Jack at BRT was not sure if there were OK. Cheers

I was thinking, how did you tighten up the castle nut? did you buy the tool? If so how much was it? How tight did you go? Cheers

Do you want two more of those bearings??!! I will call Jack on Monday and tell him to order another set of the UJ's as mine also have a tight spot. I suspected, obviously incorrectly, this would be a part designed by Guzzi. So therefore bike specific. I got a parts manual off ebay, which is quite detailed and it does only show the whole shaft as a spare part. I will go down to Machine Mart to get the bearing pullers etc and get going next week, hopfully! Pasto, thanks for the photo's Cheers