docc

At least it has a front fender! Lots of these "builds" just ditch them . . .

I just gotta love the location of the passenger pegs . . . er, maybe that's not what they are . . .

I just edited the year model of this schematic to 2002, specifically, after noticing the "Battery Warning Light" that is not present on later V11 with left and right turn indicators. Yet, the 2002 wiring differs from the earlier Sports (1999-2001) as to how the start circuit is diverted from Relay#1 to the Ignition Switch.

"This doesn't look like [Oklahoma], Toto . . ."

I'd like to see details on this added to this thread:

+1 on footgoose's flush/bleed advice. The only adjustments in the clutch are at the lever. There is the matter of setting the "reach" of the Brembo lever for your hand size and engagement preference. And there is a lever adjustment that contacts the master cylinder plunger. Having to change this contact may indicate a possible broken spring inside the master cylinder.

Strive for right angles . . .

Seems your V11 runs right. GuzziDiag connectivity is a mystery to me.

The 2002-on change to relay function involves shifting the starting demands to the Ignition switch instead of the #1/Start Relay. The middle/#3 "Sidestand Relay" (that is pulled in by the Neutral Switch NOT the Sidestand Switch) remains unchanged throughout the range. Of my three questions, you only answered #1 . . .

That your Neutral Light comes on suggests the Neutral Switch and its connection are functional, but does not verify the function of the #3 (middle) relay or its connections. . .

When was the last time the system was pressurized (ignition on/ pump runs)?

Working backward through your inquiries (only to the extent of my understanding and experience, YMMV): The air screws will not appreciably "richen" or "lean" the fueling., expect minutely at idle. No no ever fixed their significant running issues moving the idle screws. I have certainly found mySport idles more reliably at a stop (especially stuck in traffic) in our local hot/humid conditions. I have never sen the CO Fuel Trim on our V11 ECU wander around or reset on its own. That said, it has been observed that an attempt is made to change the CO setting and it appears to reset, but the next time the setting is viewed it never changed and is seen at where it was before the attempt (not that it changed back, but never acctualy changed. The double digit negative settings were common from the factory, and again, is really about throttle plates at idle position and "just cracked open" with less and less effect on air-fuel-ratio as the plates are opened more and the rpm rises into the desirable ranges (over 4,000). I, arbitrarily, moved my CO Trim to 11 chasing what turned out to be minute vacuum leaks at the vacuum taps. I've just left it there. "Maybe" it helps a bit at that 2800 rpm abrupt ignition advance increase in the mapping (but doesn't solve it, especially in high ambient temperatures). Nothing wrong with trying some higher CO settings, but the outcomes are pretty much impossible to quantify. Regarding guzzidiag connectivity, the prompts instruct to leave the Run Switch on and switch the bike on and off with the Ignition Switch. If your V11 would not connect with the sidestand up, I would investigate your "Neutral Switch" circuit. 1) Is your Neutral Indicator Light on with the bike in neutral? 2) Will your bike sit in neutral and run with the sidestand down? 3) Running, in neutral with the sidestand down, (perform this check with the CLUTCH LEVER PULLED IN ! ), when it is shifted into gear does the bike shut off?

How many km? Asking price in Euro?

Alright, my improved effort:

I wish this image were more clear, but here is where the power to the fuel pump can be checked for voltage on an early V11 with the external pump on the left side of the spine frame above the left cylinder . . .

Best to use a notification tag for older topics, like: @moto fugazzi

Best pm Chuck directly, sir. Also, all the rest of you that have expressed an interest: Strike while the iron is hot! (pm Chuck)

I built a 116 mile loop crossing the Cumberland on the nearby ferry and back across the Wolf Creek Dam. Not exactly cow paths, but very limited highway. You know the drill. Check your pm......

Last and best effort I can make to notify interested parties to PM Chuck at this point: @KenBlake @roktbox @guzzi323 @RichP @Tinus89 @Gmc28 And the special offer from @Scud Thanks, again, @Chuck !

OEM Parts: antivibration dampers that join the two-piece front fender: Upper (3, each) GU93236104 Side (2, each) GU93236105 Replacement parts: "well nuts/ insulating rivet nuts" . . . . Upper: McMaster-Carr (ten count) 93495A615 Side: McMaster-Carr (ten count) 93495A503 Related discussion: (with dimensions of factory parts):

This whole exercise leaves me with the opinion that, once assembled (for antivibration purposes), the front fender should be removed and replaced as a unit whenever possible. And that the antivibration dampers should not be excessively tight in order to function as desired.

Well nuts (antivibration dampers, 3 each) for the upper three, M4 GU93231604: dimensions (mm) Body: diameter length Flange: diameter thickness 7.8 11.0 11.0 1.4 Material thickness: 4.6 Hole Size 8-8.3 This product from McMaster-Carr looks comparable ($6.55US for ten count): 93495A615

I love taking bikes on ferries! Where is that?

Check for voltage (ignition on/Run Switch on) to the Fuse 2 (from the front), then 5th (back) relay. I forget exactly which contacts, but if you probe all with a volt meter, you should find 12 volts. The connections to the fuel pump are under rubber boots and easily checked for voltage unless your pump is on top of the spine, under the tank.

Also, be aware of axle variations. Early 40 mm Marzocchi had either a screw in axle and a nutted axle. Later 43mm Marzocchi had either a solid axle and a hollow axle, IIRC.... Seems that early forks had both compression and rebound adjustment and later forks, compression only?