docc

Probably lodging discounts for Kentucky residents . . . @gstallons . . . Yo! Talkin' to you, bud. Both of your chiropractors have already written you Doctor's Notes. Could come down to a Southern-SpineRaid/West-Between-the-Lifts-at-gstallons-Shop-After-Hours (I tried to make an acronym out of that and choked like a cat on a hairball )

I suppose we should expect a bit of, er, derived solutions, as the bananas get peeled by the monkeys . . .

gstallons reply was directed at the thread drift about our riding experiences and the potential for a "spring South'n Spine Raid " in southeast Kentucky next year. I have redirected that discussion to Joe's topic in "Meetings, Clubs and Events." I noticed the "shift return spring in your parts order. No use changing that unless also installing the Chuck-engineered SuperSpring and performing the Lucky Phil Shift Improvement:

Sage advice. It comes to mind this is best practice for our anti-vibration mounts fr the ECU and the coils, which are all failure prone . . .

Thanks, @Aldo. pm sent

You already have a Chuck-designed SuperSping from Scud?

"sSSR " . . . Something you Kentucky guys should have a spanner on . . .

Josh on his silver SPOrT1100. That was a great meet-up, BTW. We are waaaaaaay overdue for another!

It also occurred to me to mention servicing the pins and pistons while you have the pads out. This has made a huge difference in braking feel and performance on my Sport... Clean, polish, and lightly grease (silicone grease only, NO petroleum around brakes [@gstallons's solid advice] ) the four pad pins. If any are badly ridged or deeply corroded, consider replacements. Withdraw fluid from the reservoir, clean the pistons with a spray cleaner for brakes like CRC Brākleen® (watch yer eyes!), rotate each piston with a proper brake piston tool, then press the pistons into the calipers. I've great results "chocking" the first pistons to move and further cleaning and pumping-out/ pressing-in the sluggish pistons until they all move relatively evenly. (Bear in mind the differential piston sizes on the front calipers are designed to move the leading pistons differently from the the trailing.) Flush with fresh fluid that has a confirmed low moisture content. Best to you, again, @LaGrasta, on getting this V11 Sport back on the road!

Congratulations, @LaGrasta! Your determination is admirable! Yes, fresh Brembo pads are a good idea. I know folks run various pads, but my original rotors suffered from some of my choices, so Brembo only for mySport. In fact, just last night I ordered fronts and rear from MGCycle.

Using the "air gap technique", I set mine at 100mm using 330ml in each leg. Yes, this can be done with the forks installed, but compressed. Springs out, IIRC. [moderator edit: Keeping this discussion here, rather than a new topic in "How to" . . .]

Af1Racing in Texas, USA, lists this Aprilia part (for a higher cost) as equivalent to the GU93236105 well nuts for the side connections of the two piece V11 front fender . . . https://www.af1racing.com/OEM-Aprilia-Rubber-With-Insert-M5-AP8120531 FWIW, they list it as an M5 (the three top connectors are M4).

Nope! It was not "Designated Parking" . . .

Original regulator, @thumper? How many miles?

Updated the tally post on page 42 . . .

Yep, charging too high. Should be 13.8-14.2.

What TomChri said. Just to clarify, @thumper, your PC545 statically (just sitting) dropped to 12.63v ? Perfect time to charge! As Tom noted start by a discharge (I just turn the bike's hi beam on and watch until the voltage stabilizes.) A good battery will not be much less than 12.0. Below mid 11s would be concerning. Then yes "at least" 6 amps until the voltage rises to no mare than 15.0v. "Rinse & repeat" a couple times, as TomChri has said.

Edit: found > ONE < : Agostoni Mandello

Thanks to @KINDOY2 for helping me source the rear section of the silver front Sport fender along with the top three "Swell Nuts ". (TLM/Nederlands) Very narrowly missed a front section/ front fender from them on ebay. So, still on the hunt for a front section/ silver front fender V11 Sport 1999-2001 (and the two side "well nuts") . .

"Let's" . . .

I'll measure my new Guzzi "swell nuts" (93236104) when they arrive from TLM. These are the three between the fender parts at the top. The two on the sides are different (93236105). It did not even occur to me to order these, as well.

Haha, well, "Swell Nuts" might be the Dutch translation for "well nuts." Well, well . . . Seems Mcmaster-Carr sells a 10 pack of M4 "rivet nuts" for about the price of one from TLM, Nederlands.

Trying to source a replacement, 2-piece, silver front fender for mySport, I spied this on TLM, The Netherlands: "M4 Swell Nuts" . . . https://tlm.nl/moto-guzzi-triumph/932316040000-zwelmoer-m4-spatbord-v11

I make it a rule to use strapping to secure from tip-over. (Don't ask me why this went from a suggestion to a rule . . . )