docc

* Bump : Any silver Sport front fenders out there? Added a "fender welt ." Just like a '32 Ford . . . Plus a "fender washer " (it's what they're for, right?) (It really does not look that coarse, in person . . . does it ? )

Hi, MikeMetal! Well, you have definitely come to a place full of folks that LOVE to figure out what has gone awry with a V11 ! That low throttle mis-fire when hot is a sensitive area for the V11, no doubt. Any relationship to the clutch work might suggest the throttle linkage got jostled out of synch, or perhaps the regulator is nudging the TPS. Here is a great way to baseline your tuning parameters: Keep us in the loop!

Welcome, @PaulH ! I looked at the member map and found four members on O'ahu, but only one that has visited in the last three years. Worth reaching out to @RMW1967 in Kaneohe. As for fit, none of the V11 have a very seep racer crouch like, say many Ducati and some Aprlia. Yet the knee bend to the rearsets is worth considering. Later, 2003-2004, V11 included models with handlebars instead of clip-ons: Ballabio, Café Sport, and Coppa Italia. Best wishes!

Once a leak(s) starts, it is probably about correctly replacing seals. Seems I spent ten years of my V11 life about this . . . I had to abandon RedLine ShockProof "Heavy" /pink after my suspicions that I could not judge re-fill volume and likely overfilled. Even going to RedLine ShockProof "Light Weight", judging how much lubricant is retained after draining is unknowable. Today, a cold reardrive drain, with formed drain channel and (orange) duct tape tab to deflect the last drops away from the wheel/tire (worked a charm!): After about an hour, buttoned it up and added an accurately measured 350 ml (of the 370 ml V11 reardrive capacity) of RLSPLW/"blue". Waited several hours and opened the "level plug" (with the front wheel in a SportChock), capturing ~10 ml. Not sure what this means to refill volumes with the so-very-clingy Redline ShockProof, but it is very challenging not to overfill!

Wow. It's been five years . . .

(Less than) one week out. MySport is in "BikeWash ." The process of touching everything from stem-to-stern/ top-to-bottom looking for anything loose, suspicious, or overlooked. It is like Parc Fermé, but joined with a dedicated Tech Inspection.

I'd love to get that FT1200 Indian parked next to a V11 Sport for perspective and comparison!

Isn't this a technique to relieve pressure from the earlier (pre-V11), un-vented rear drives by getting them hot then opening the filler cap to "burp" pressure buildup? This should be a non-issue with the vented V11 reardrive as long as the vent is not blocked.

Ago!

What relays are you running?

A "head-count" of SpineRaid Jello to be nailed to the wall? Surely, you jest. Too many cats to herd. I'll be lucky to nail my own cat to the wall and herd my Jello to this SpineRaid . . .

Does your oil light come on with the ignition switch?

A V11 Fly&Ride! Deserves a thread of its own, @Biglangster.

Sounds like you are right on track, Sir. Seems there are a couple fail points inside the tach, itself?

I have likely confused the issue asking about this in reference to brake maintenance. At each wheel-off event, I try to take the time to remove (clean) the pads, pump the pistons out a bit to clean (BrakeKlean spray) and rotate them with a piston tool. Of the four pistons, one always moves very easily (first) and one will always be "last." I've always interpreted that as "starting to stick" (to some degree). "Equalizing" the movement by cleaning, rotating, and pressing the pistons in and out individually has always given me notably improved braking. Learning about the differential piston size helps me realize that not all of the pistons are going to move "equally."

Let's reach out to @Scud, the Keeper of the Supersprings. Welcome @Biglangster ! Is your location Canada, or USA . . . ?

So, at ~$560US, including the ECU and hangers, I'm surprised no one has scooped this up. Could it be the "May not ship to the US ?"

oh, looks like muddy water . . . I feel certain some SpineRaider will bring a soldering iron . . .

I recall knowledgeable contributors here emphasizing "Time-Sert " as the best thread repair insert: http://www.timesert.com/

Topic moderation: Since the Original Post is specifically about a modification to the original V11 brakes, I see no value in attempting to further discuss the original brake configuration. Certainly, there is no value to further belabor any perceived offenses to our sensibilities. I see everyone got the opportunity to reply in that regard. This thread has not been locked. Only this post has been reported. If the Original Poster would like to let us know how his 4-pad brake calipers work out, that would be great.

What a travesty. For one, docc doesn't "kick [people] off the board." I suppose the more considerable concern for us, as a small community, is our "tone" or general decorum. This is as grumpy a thread I've seen in a long, long time. Over what? Brakes? "Delivery?" Some perceived slight to one's knowledge or contribution? FWIW, I was learning a little more and more all along the discussion. Until it got unnecessarily "personal."

The early switches differ from the later V11. Not sure who made them, but they have been used on some Ducati as well, IIRC. MGCycle is a good US resource for this sort of thing. Sometimes eBay, if necessary. There may be a member here with a box of spare electrical bits . . .

Been a while since I've had mine open. Seems it will "clamshell" enough to inspect the wiring and spray Caig DeOxit® into it while flipping the switch on and off. If the toggle , itself, is loose on its pivot, the switch is probably done-for . . .

My Tekno have clearance to the canisters. Yet, I am running round, carbon fiber accessory cans, likely made by Mistral for Guzzi back in the day. I can see how oval cans, especially the larger, original LaFranconi could pose clearance problems. While the heat might not be an issue damaging the pannier material, I would not want my luggage resting on my exhaust at the risk of stressing the exhaust junctions and attachment points . . .

Um, so . . . when performing the routine maintenance of cleaning the pistons and "equalizing" the piston movement, the trailing/ larger pistons should be expected to move first (during maintenance with the pads removed, watching the movement of the pistons while applying pumping action from the master cylinder)?