docc

Sadly, I must concur. When an author publishes gross inaccuracies about matters I am certain represent poor journalism (like he didn't even read his own prior work), I cannot trust that what I am reading about other models is any better. Nice pictures, though? I am glad to see that Falloon gave proper credit to the Tony Foale spine frame design: "The new frame was heavily influenced by a Tony Foale design . . . " [docc-sourced image not from the referenced Falloon article.]

Wow, that is such a great question! As this is not an organized "rally" or actual "event", but only an "idea" - there really (really) is no schedule, locations, or prescribed roads or routes - yet, there are some historical commonalities . . . There tends to be a lot going on in the garage at TheLodgeatTellico all weekend, especially in the evenings. Folks tend to arrive Thursday or Friday, sometimes even Saturday. Most of us leave-out Sunday morning, but some stay on. Saturday invites us to ride as, and with whom, we see fit. Often solo, in pairs, or small groups will sally forth to engage the hills and dales (as well as the Appalachian Divide including the Cherohala Skyway and US 129 Deal's Gap/ "The Tail of the Dragon"). Saturday lunch at The Tapoco Lodge by the Cheoah ("Fugitive") Dam is very popular and we often find each other there, or another mile up US129 at the "Crossroads" (with NC28) that anchors the Tail of the Dragon. Y'all get familiar with the roads and places. Bring your maps and GPS routes to share and compare. Friday evening, under the pavilion at The Lodge at Tellico, will see some plans hatched and some alliances formed . . .

These "selector dog collars" are the "sliding dogs"/ "shift sleeves" (what the Parts Catalog calls "hoses" (2) and "moveable hoses" (8) ?), along with the "Cush-drive assembly" ("Bellville washer tower" and/or #15/#16?) that were the subject of the early 6speed gearbox recall?

Decent shakedown ride today getting staged for the South'n SpineRaid. All is well . . .

I had the chance to roll my V11 Sport back and forth, in gear, with the clutch in today. It clicked with every direction change, as expected. No noise in neutral. Seems entirely normal.

Yep, especially if you can get the bike up on a lift sitting vertical. Do be aware that the coil mounts are fragile, so don't be prying hard to remove the ignition wire. Good to check to be sure the mounts have not already failed (common).

Because of that gearbox "cush drive" stack (not the one in the reardrive), the rear wheel has about 50mm/ 2 inches of rolling "freeplay" when the direction of rotation is reversed. This is normal. It also makes the V11 6speed very challenging to ride smoothly in and out of corners. Yet, I suspect you have solved "whatever" the original issue was, @Walterg. Also gained, and shared, significant V11 experience. Thank you for keeping us informed! And well done!

The drive in the first two images looks identical while showing the lower thrust washer missing from my assembly image. The odometer drive from the lay shaft ("Transmission" shaft?) looks different from the images of the 6speed. I've not has eyes on this, but recall @Rolf Halvorsen helped me understand the odometer drive gear is captured on the shaft. Frustratingly, that drive gear is shown in the parts catalog as part of the speedometer assembly, not the gearbox!

So, does it still have the rolling rattle/ clicking in gear with the clutch lever pulled in?

I recently bought plug wire replacement parts from these good folks: https://marxparts.com/spark_plug_wire_and_fittings.htm (Although, I bought my red 7mm ignition wire online from O'reilly's.)

Yeah, man, the coil wire should have a terminal on it: That connection can be vulnerable to damage:

This image depicts the driven shaft system from the gearbox (as well as the early V11 external angle drive at the top). Notably, there is a second thrust washer (not shown) beneath the lower spindle/pinion/shaft . . .

That "Picker Components" high current relay @Speedfrog has sourced may be the best one available, currently . . . [haha - I got to say "current" and "currently" in the same post. ]

Success! Thank you, @stewgnu !

@stewgnu generated the 2002-2005 diagram without the gradient background color to make it easier to read: Thank you, Sir!!

Relay 3 is worth understanding because 1) it is the least stressed relay (best place to pull a spare from the stack), and 2) while it is referred to as the Sidestand Relay, it is activated by the Neutral Switch (not the Sidestand Switch). This relay sends current to the Run Switch with the bike in neutral even if the Sidestand is down. When the Sidestand is up, it’s switch sends current directly to the Run Switch (no relay). Relay 3 would more correctly be called the Neutral Relay, IMO.

Relay 2 (from the front)is a busy place. Sure, headlight relay, but as noted also the tachometer. Tach starts acting sketchy? Know that the headlight and brake light are also compromised, but more importantly: the charging system has lost its voltage reference and is not charging. This is why the bike will run progressively worse until the battery (and the bike) dies from a Relay2 failure. The power to the some of the Warning (“idiot”) Lights on the dash [ oil, battery, fuel] also comes through Relay 2. The Battery Warning Light (early V11 only) will not warn you of not charging from Relay 2 failure. Certainly, Relay 2 is another good candidate for a good quality high current relay.

So, more detail on relay function: Relay 1 is the Start Relay, but also sends all the current to (multifunctional) Relay 2 through its weaker Normally Closed contact. A cheap “10/20” amp relay in V11 position 1 is not advisable. Also, the 1999-2001 wiring uses the Normally Open contact for the starter while later V11 use the Ignition Switch. Take away: for early V11, use a high current relay in position 1. Later V11 can suffer Startus Interuptus and benefit from an additional (6th) relay for the starter. [next: relay 2 and 3 breakdown . . . ]

That looks legit to me. I'll defer to our resident sparkies, but seems a resistor could be installed either way, while a diode is one way only ?

The relay functions are slightly more involved than those basics . . .

It would be a good time to groom, align, clean, and lubricate the entire external shift mechanism. Clean, grease, and adjust the tension on the shifter pivot bolt. Make sure the connecting rod length holds the shift extender parallel to the arm at the gearbox and the lock nuts are tight. Be certain the shifter lever does not strike the frame side plate on the downstroke . . . For the Chuckstud (yeah, I read it like that the first time through. ) superspring, contact super- @Scud:

I can make sense out of the brake control and separate footpeg, but cannot figure that shifter (for the V11) . . .

Gotcha. Try to position the clamps so they are accessible with the tank on. Rather than crank the motor to purge air from the lines, simply turn on the ignition and run switches, listen for the fuel pump whir/stop. Repeat several times. The return line through the regulator on the right side will eventually fill all the lines/injectors with fuel.

I don't think you can be "off topic" in your own topic, especially in "Special Banter " . . . The exhibit looks awesome. So much more engaging than viewing paintings on a wall from behind a velvet rope. Also, so many exhibits prohibit taking pictures now. My all-time favorite Van Gogh quote. (Substitute "ride/work on your motorcycle", "play music", or what-have-you for "paint") . . . "If you hear a voice within you say 'you cannot paint,' then by all means paint, and that voice will be silenced." - Vincent Van Gogh