docc

I recently bought plug wire replacement parts from these good folks: https://marxparts.com/spark_plug_wire_and_fittings.htm (Although, I bought my red 7mm ignition wire online from O'reilly's.)

Yeah, man, the coil wire should have a terminal on it: That connection can be vulnerable to damage:

This image depicts the driven shaft system from the gearbox (as well as the early V11 external angle drive at the top). Notably, there is a second thrust washer (not shown) beneath the lower spindle/pinion/shaft . . .

That "Picker Components" high current relay @Speedfrog has sourced may be the best one available, currently . . . [haha - I got to say "current" and "currently" in the same post. ]

Success! Thank you, @stewgnu !

@stewgnu generated the 2002-2005 diagram without the gradient background color to make it easier to read: Thank you, Sir!!

Relay 3 is worth understanding because 1) it is the least stressed relay (best place to pull a spare from the stack), and 2) while it is referred to as the Sidestand Relay, it is activated by the Neutral Switch (not the Sidestand Switch). This relay sends current to the Run Switch with the bike in neutral even if the Sidestand is down. When the Sidestand is up, it’s switch sends current directly to the Run Switch (no relay). Relay 3 would more correctly be called the Neutral Relay, IMO.

Relay 2 (from the front)is a busy place. Sure, headlight relay, but as noted also the tachometer. Tach starts acting sketchy? Know that the headlight and brake light are also compromised, but more importantly: the charging system has lost its voltage reference and is not charging. This is why the bike will run progressively worse until the battery (and the bike) dies from a Relay2 failure. The power to the some of the Warning (“idiot”) Lights on the dash [ oil, battery, fuel] also comes through Relay 2. The Battery Warning Light (early V11 only) will not warn you of not charging from Relay 2 failure. Certainly, Relay 2 is another good candidate for a good quality high current relay.

So, more detail on relay function: Relay 1 is the Start Relay, but also sends all the current to (multifunctional) Relay 2 through its weaker Normally Closed contact. A cheap “10/20” amp relay in V11 position 1 is not advisable. Also, the 1999-2001 wiring uses the Normally Open contact for the starter while later V11 use the Ignition Switch. Take away: for early V11, use a high current relay in position 1. Later V11 can suffer Startus Interuptus and benefit from an additional (6th) relay for the starter. [next: relay 2 and 3 breakdown . . . ]

That looks legit to me. I'll defer to our resident sparkies, but seems a resistor could be installed either way, while a diode is one way only ?

The relay functions are slightly more involved than those basics . . .

It would be a good time to groom, align, clean, and lubricate the entire external shift mechanism. Clean, grease, and adjust the tension on the shifter pivot bolt. Make sure the connecting rod length holds the shift extender parallel to the arm at the gearbox and the lock nuts are tight. Be certain the shifter lever does not strike the frame side plate on the downstroke . . . For the Chuckstud (yeah, I read it like that the first time through. ) superspring, contact super- @Scud:

I can make sense out of the brake control and separate footpeg, but cannot figure that shifter (for the V11) . . .

Gotcha. Try to position the clamps so they are accessible with the tank on. Rather than crank the motor to purge air from the lines, simply turn on the ignition and run switches, listen for the fuel pump whir/stop. Repeat several times. The return line through the regulator on the right side will eventually fill all the lines/injectors with fuel.

I don't think you can be "off topic" in your own topic, especially in "Special Banter " . . . The exhibit looks awesome. So much more engaging than viewing paintings on a wall from behind a velvet rope. Also, so many exhibits prohibit taking pictures now. My all-time favorite Van Gogh quote. (Substitute "ride/work on your motorcycle", "play music", or what-have-you for "paint") . . . "If you hear a voice within you say 'you cannot paint,' then by all means paint, and that voice will be silenced." - Vincent Van Gogh

If the injector (hose?) leaked while cranking, seems you have fuel pressure. Perhaps we could troubleshoot some electrical/ ignition concerns before pulling the tank?

If it cranked over, the clutch switch is conducting. If it won't crank without the lever pulled in, the switch and its connections are functional. The switch is located in the housing for the clutch lever with two small wires going to it.

I ran across this image of my early Sport Moto Guzzi accessory (Mistral?) round, carbon fiber "For Off Road Use Only" exhaust canister weave (viewed though one of my SpeedHut instrument lenses). "2 x 2" ? Matte? Gloss?

"Enthusiast" pricing . . .

The puppy-dogs on leashes rather give them away. As well as the big smiles . . . AAAARRRGHGHGHH!

Not sure what tires the Sport 1100-i came with. The original V11 Sport was delivered with Pirelli Dragon Corsa sport tires and spec'd at pretty low pressures (33/37, IIRC). They wore really quickly and (IMO) contributed to the high speed weave exhibited by some of the early V11 Sports. With sport touring tires, I gradually settled on 35/40 as a compromise between road holding, longevity, and tire wear characteristics. These pressures also pass the "10% rule" on my Sport with its load-out, local road conditions/temperatures, and my weight in gear. I recently mounted my 58th tire on this V11 Sport. Certainly there is no more applicable topic to say "YMMV!"

Okay, here ya go: 7 - 32753710 Turn indicator lens 8 - 93450126 Lamp, orange

Looks clear, but with either an amber inner lens or an amber bulb.

Why not replace it with an unit with upgraded heat shielding and strain relief of the wires? https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/duc-statoredl.htm Requires the connections to be changed to (better) "spade" type.